My Range has been having some hot start problems. (Has new genuine cap, rotor, wires, plugs, air flow meter, adjusted timing, new fuel pump, etc).
I went to the local import car parts shop and asked for a ECTS for my 1995 Range Rover LWB 4.2, yada yada. The part doesn't look like what I thought it would look like. I have the RAVE, but it's not entirely too clear to me what exactly the RAVE is pointing to for the ECTS.
Pictures and installation instructions would be MUCH appreciated.
When standing at the front of the car looking at the motor, it is just to the right (pointing upwards) of where the top radiator hose goes into the motor on the intake manifold. To the left and lower on the intake manifold is the sensor for the temp gauge. The temp sensor for the EFI system has a square plug on the top with 2 connectors, the temp sensor for the gauge just has a single spade connector on the end.
thanks guys. Got it out. The female end disintegrated in my hands. GRR. All I could do was JB weld what was left of the female connector to the new Coolant Temp Sensor (which I was able to procure the same day from Autozone! Surprise, surpise.).
So what is the sensor that is on the neck of where the upper radiator hose meets the engine (water pump housing?).
you should also see if it sputters when hot with starting fluid, if it does but then dies your fuel pump could be shot. they wear out and have issues getting the truck started again when hot, was an issue on my disco. they can be repaired by replacing the pump on the inside of the fuel sender for less than 100$. go to this site for advice: Range Rover Parts Sources, Land Rover Discovery Parts Sources
When starting from cold, my 95 (LWB 4.2L) temperature gauge on the dash of the truck immediately pegs past the "H". Note: this is after sort of going on the fritz over the past 3 weeks... one time reading normal when I'd start the car and then another time reading past "H". So, I don't think that the engine is running that hot when I drive it on different days... I think it's my coolant temperature sensor that has gone out on me.
I ordered one that is specific to the 95 LWB (on the right side of the attached picture) and went to replace the faulty one in the truck. BUT the sensor on the new part (the part that actually sticks vertically and is screwed into the block of the engine) is too thick. The left side of the picture shows the original (when I unscrewed it from the block the male part fell off and a spring came out as well).
My question: Is the part shown on the right the same as the part on the left? No. If not- have I taken off something that is not the coolant temp sender but just looks like one? If so.. what is it that I have removed? The temp gauge no longer works... so it has something to do with the gauge on the dash. I will try to post pictures of where I have removed the part.. but it sits what is listed as the EFI sensor (sensor with the rectangular top that sits more forward on the block from the part I have removed).
Yeah, that is the sender for the gauge. IIRC the green ring is Facet brand sensor. As long as the threads are the same it should be fine. The pic is kind of fuzzy, the only thing I really see is they don't look quite exactly the same.
I am still not sure that my is working correctly. I understand that there are specific senders for our different vehicle years. My temp will only go up to mid way, never further. My mechanic suggest that I may have installed the incorrect sender. This sender has only 1 plug-in where the other sender in that area has two. If I remember correctly, the one I put in my 4.2 1993 MY had a red washer(?) rather than the green one you show. Screwed right in but same results on the gage
1993 LWB Plymouth Blue
Just reread the above post again - what should the resistance numbers be? At cold start, hot, boiling over? I would like to get a MM and check the oine I have out.
Off the top of my head I can't recall. You can verify the gauge is ok by grounding the sensor wire with the key on, the gauge will top out. It is also possible it reads in the middle because your cooling system is actually working correctly. I know, hard to fathom anything on a Rover working correctly but it is possible.
I figured out my problem- the sensor that I pulled from the engine broke when I unscrewed it from the block. It had corroded to the block itself, so when I loosened it, the brass male part (that holds the spring and cylinder pictured in my original post of the left) broke off and remained in the hole (vertical into the engine).
Summary: My original post shows the same part, but the new brass piece on the right has the male part still correctly attached (and in it contains the spring and thinner cylinder as pictured on the left side of the picture).
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