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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 44
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ok so my powered seats in my 90 RRC work but it doesnt go foward (closer to the steering wheel) it can go back , but not foward. I accidently leaned on the button and its getting too far back,
is there a way i can manually push the seat closer to the steering wheel.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 35
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What worked for me is to get some electrical connection cleaner such as CRC brand in autostores --not the one with the lubricant for electric motors, but connection cleaner and spray it into the switch area as much as you can. A contact is probably corroded in the switch. Worth 4.99 for a try.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Pascoag, RI
Posts: 228
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if you pop the switch knobs off , then pop the switch plate off, and finally, remove the gasket aroudn teh edge and undo the two screws you can pull the switch mechanism out. You have to unplug the plugs from the bottom of the black piece. Fromt here, if you have two wires with prongs on the end (like for a multimeter) or put nails in the clips, you can figure out how to jump the switch in the plug slots. This used to be hwo I ran my seats. You have to use two wires though, its some kind of weird arrangement of 4 diffferent slots. I think one of the slots is power, the slot next to it is ground (use a voltmeter to check), and you put one wire in each then with the other ends put them in random places and youll figure out which way you need to do it.
Then you can also take apart the switch assembly, and do it in a box so you dont lose all the parts, because inside si a bunch of springs, pivot washers, and miniature ball bearings. If you clean these up well from all corrosion, carefully balance them in their correct position, and snap the housing back together (hoping they all stay where they should be, a little grease might help) then you have a pretty good chance the switch will work again. the switches are 110 new last time I checked.. it's worth a try.
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Devon Yablonski 1989 Range Rover Classic - Running and Muddy 1987 and 1988 Range Rover Classic - Parts |
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#4 (permalink) |
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I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Rocky Mountain High
![]() Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 9,936
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Quote:
X2....... that's what I did! |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Crazy about Rovers and more...
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 2,887
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x3 Mine did the same thing, only wouldn't go back or forward, and I was way too far back in my seat. LOL I was like a granny sitting low and drivng slow.
I ended up cleaning the switch and it started working right after, only I removed the switch totally, and cleaned it on my kitchen counter. ![]()
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Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Brush Gaurd, meant for a Jeep Grand Cherokee, now fitted to the RRC -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC |
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#7 (permalink) |
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I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
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The only thing I would add is clean it on a plush towel. That way if the ball bearings fall out they don't go bouncing around and get lost.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Forward!
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Clean the switch. Like stated in the numerous posts above that will most likely cure your problem. Be very careful when you pull the switch apart as there are little springs and ball bearings that will fly everywhere.
On my 89 the motor for reclining the seat was just dead. Just disconnected the worm drive line that runs that function and used my power drill to turn the worm gear to recline the seat where I wanted it. Not pretty, but it worked and it was a hell of a lot cheaper than sourcing a power seat motor. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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1993 Range Rover County LWB
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Seattle, Washington
Posts: 18
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It is worth the trouble to pull the switch apart and clean it up properly. Even though they look very intimidating when you pull them apart, they really aren't difficult. I had mine apart right after I got my LWB a few weeks ago, because the green button (that stores the memory settings) wasn't working.
To what has been mentioned above I will add that tweezers were a HUGE help when reassembling. Bear in mind that all the pieces are just perched on top of one another, so *something* is likely going to astray during the process of removing the cover. In troubleshooting my problem with the green button, I had the covers off three times, and at least a couple ball bearings fell off their upper perch each time. As far as grease is concerned, it can be very helpful for reassembly, but be careful to not use too much, or you'll attract dirt. I found that I only needed to put a tiny bit on the bearings that sit on top of the springs. They're the only parts that don't have another part sitting on top (at least until you put the cover back on). The picture on OkieRover's website is a great reference - the switch "stalks" on the bottom left and right will fit in ways other than that shown in the picture, but you'll find that the switches won't move (ask me how I know this!).
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- Ian 1993 Range Rover County LWB / 1996 Rover Mini SPi / 1965 MG 1100 |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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I'd love to be in the Rat Patrol
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