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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 22
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I am new to the forum and am hoping that you knowledgable folks can help me figure out what to do with my "93 LWB. This is a high milage vehicle that has been very dependable for the 3 years I have owned her, but recently am experiencing a couple of problems.
1) Upon turning the key to start truck; starter engages but only turns about a quarter before it stops with a "clunck!". Turn the key a few more times and she will eventually start and run normally. I replaced starter but that had no effect. When truck does start I hear another "clunck" right when she starts. Not sure if something funny is going on with crank shaft or what. Any suggestions. 2) Am loosing coolant internally, through exhaust I believe - no signs of coolant in oil. I know its time for things like head gaskets, etc. So I am considering how extensive of a rebuild to undertake and how much I should expect to spend on the parts and supplies that I need to do the work myself. Or if I should look for a used engine with less milage on it and make a swap. Thanks for any advice. Tom |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Crazy about Rovers and more...
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 2,888
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These motors have been notorious for loosing coolant one way or another. What you might have to end up doing, is yes, replacing the head gaskets. Getting another used engine, can only mean a whole set of unknowns. You wouldn't know the engine too well, and wouldn't know exactly what it would need. Working with what you got, is probably the best way to keep the truck running and driving.
As for the starter issue, mine used to do the same thing, it had turned out the solenoid had a bad connection and would cut off power about quarter crank of the motor. Cleaning the connection was all that I needed to do. After that, she has always cranked nicely. If that doesn't help, the solenoid could be going out on you, or the whole starter is just old and needs replacing. Hope this helps! And welcome to LRO man!! ![]()
__________________
Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 22
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Thanks Pat. I too think that working on the existing engine is best. I found an engine with 98k miles on it, and new heads 3k ago, could probably get it for $1200. However, if I put $1200 into my existing engine it would probably be great.
I had put a whole new start with new solenoid on the truck but it did not change the cranking problem. It almost seems like the crank shaft is having trouble turning - but if the main bearings were bad I think I would hear it when the engine is running, right? If I dive into doing the head gaskets what else should I do at that time? I was reading on RPi site about the timing chain and how bad they get. Should I upgrade that? |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Crazy about Rovers and more...
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Westland, MI
Posts: 2,888
Gallery:
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Yes, the timing chain could be replaced, but probably just wanna check thoroughly over the stock one and see if it is worn around the sprockets, or the chain is just worn as well. While you're doing the head gaskets, you might also wanna replace all the other gaskets on the motor, like oil pan gasket, of course the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, thermostat, water pump, also check your water pump so that you can be sure it won't fail on you later in the future.
The cranking situation, it would seem logical to suspect the crank bearings being bad and full of sludge and not enough oil, would cause it to strain on the starter. Put a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley on the front of the motor and see if you can turn it by hand, it would require some effort, but should move nicely, like you could feel the valves and pistons moving/opening and closing. Also does the starter ever sound like it spins freely after attempting to crank the motor? If it is, some teeth on the flywheel might be missing. Not probable, then again it's just a thought. Goog luck man!! ![]()
__________________
Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC |
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