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Old 08-18-2005, 04:24 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverX
I have heard the acronym ECR before but what does it mean?
ECR = East Coast Rovers. http://www.eastcoastrover.com/table.html They're up here in Maine. If my wallet would allow, I would have them put a 4.6 in my Rover. If you go that option, I could drive it back to Cali for you.
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Old 08-18-2005, 07:29 AM   #17 (permalink)
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This will take you to the RRC site of ECR......please have a towell ready to mop up the drool and protect your keyboard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



http://www.eastcoastrover.com/tableRR.html
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Old 08-18-2005, 08:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
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yeah and some vaseline.....

WTF would you want to pay an arm and a leg for a job all the way up east when you can get it done in Cali for much less.
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Old 08-18-2005, 02:15 PM   #19 (permalink)
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John, who would you recommend in Cali? I am familiar with Michael at West Coast British. There is also a LR dismantler about an hour from me that I could get a 4.6 from and have it rebuilt by whomever is recommended to me. I plan on replacing the engine next summer - gives me time to put $ aside to get it done right.

Also, I know you are a distributor for Scorpion, but how good of a suspension are they compared to RTE and OME? This truck will be a rock crawler and general offroader. It will be used on the road every now and then - got to get it to the trail and getting the occassional gallon of milk when I feel like running over the little old ladies....
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What? Is this where I'm supposed to write some profound statement that boggles the intellect of the genius that you think you are? Why would I waste my time with that when I can be getting free lap dances from your sister AND your girlfriend at the same time?
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Old 08-18-2005, 06:03 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverX
John, who would you recommend in Cali? I am familiar with Michael at West Coast British. There is also a LR dismantler about an hour from me that I could get a 4.6 from and have it rebuilt by whomever is recommended to me. I plan on replacing the engine next summer - gives me time to put $ aside to get it done right.

Also, I know you are a distributor for Scorpion, but how good of a suspension are they compared to RTE and OME? This truck will be a rock crawler and general offroader. It will be used on the road every now and then - got to get it to the trail and getting the occassional gallon of milk when I feel like running over the little old ladies....
The two places you mentioned are a good place to start.
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Old 08-18-2005, 11:16 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Thanks John, but tell me about the Scorpion suspension for the RR.
Thanks
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Old 08-19-2005, 11:30 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Scorpion's springs come with a lifetime warranty and in a large variety of spring rates specifically designed for each vehicle, from standard to 3". and the orange color looks cool!!!
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Old 08-19-2005, 12:05 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Hey John... how bout their shocks that you carry???

thanks!
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Old 08-19-2005, 12:18 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC
Hey John... how bout their shocks that you carry???

thanks!
We carry two brands of shocks: the deCarbons (come in standard and plus 2") and the 3-way adjustable Koni Heavy tracks (which is what I have). The Koni's are VERY good but expensive. The deCarbon's a also very good, similar to the OME/Bilsteins but softer.

One of our customers got tired of breaking OMEs and decided to get the Konis. He has a 110 with a 5.0 engine and races (100 mph) it thru the desert. He said the OMEs kept on breaking but the Konis work fine, he only bottomed out once.

Here's a comparison between my old deCarbon and the new Koni's:
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Old 08-19-2005, 05:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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RoverX, I don't know if you have looked here or not but rangerovers.net is a great source of information. Good luck with your project.
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Old 09-20-2005, 11:19 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I would recomend the OME lift with the long travel kit. I have trimmed the rear quater panels off above the side trim and trimmed out the rear wheel wells to gain tire stuff and departure angles. The main protection, that i also need, would be rocksliders and for me the e-brake drom on the back of the t-case, i've scratched it a few times now.. I bottom out the axles but don't hit the weak parts. i hit my gas tank skid once in awhile. I also trimmed the corners of my bumper off, they worked like shovels on steep inclines..
The choice between the RRC and Disco for me when wheeling is that i have a much easier time with visability i my RRC then when i drove the disco
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/735661/4
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Old 09-21-2005, 08:05 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverX
John, who would you recommend in Cali? I am familiar with Michael at West Coast British. There is also a LR dismantler about an hour from me that I could get a 4.6 from and have it rebuilt by whomever is recommended to me. I plan on replacing the engine next summer - gives me time to put $ aside to get it done right.
I'd stay away from the 4.2 - as the gaingly con rod is pretty hard on the big ends. The cranks do flex and break from time to time. The 4.6 block has crossbolted main caps, a larger main journal bore, and an improved oiling system. I believe the 4.6 to be the best block Rover has come up with. GEMS managment is the pits however...I'd stay with the hotwire and 14CUX ...either that or throw on an Edelbrock 215 manifold and fit a GM TBI system.
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Old 04-26-2006, 08:56 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffreydv
Rangie seats are much more comfortable than Disco seats.
I agree!
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Old 04-26-2006, 11:38 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I too would say go with the 4.6 if you can but the old 3.9 is a strong motor as well and you can probably find one cheaper. Im not sure if you can use the 88 ECU with either though??? There are some differences, maybe someone else can advise on that.
If it s a suffix A axle (marked on top of the axle housing near the breather) then even better as those CVs are pretty desireable and pretty tough. They are also easier to put HD axles in. Some guys get those CVs treated (call Bill at GBR or Haltech in AU), then run HD axles and keep the stubbies stock. The idea is that the stubby is the weak link and is easy to change (esp if you run steelies). I live in FL with mud and no rocks and run ARB lockers with 10 spline Suffix B axles in my 89 and Ive only broken one CV. However, I do drive gingerly as I know that my toothpick axles and stock CVs are the weaklink. Gordo
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