Rear crossmember

[Kevin88RRC]

So I failed inspection yesterday due to rusted out rear crossmember & driver's side sill. I can get the sill patched easily enough I think.

Initially I thought I would replace the whole rear crossmember, but after digging into it I'm not quite sure. The part that failed is the right side just past the hinge including the mounting bracket. Left side and center are solid except for the left mount. Once I get the seized bolt off the bumper I'll post pics.

So the question is replace the whole thing or have someone fab a new section including mount in place???

[Kevin88RRC]

Got the bumper off and surprisingly it does not look too bad (for a Maine truck).

So I'm thinking just find someone who can splice in a piece and make some new mounts.....

Last one is my lazy helper.

[p76rangie]

I would get another back. It is only a bolt in operation. Just unbolt rear quarter panels (30 minutes). Unbolt the rear black covers at window height (20 minutes). You have already removed the bumper and lower tailgate. You will need to remove the upper tailgate (20 minutes). Then unbolt the rear frame and bolt in a new/better one. Probably a afternoon of stuffing around to change them over.

[Kevin88RRC]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

I would get another back. It is only a bolt in operation.

By "back", do you mean the rear crossmember or are you talking about more?
Isn't the crossmember welded on the ends to the body?

[sven]

Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC

By "back", do you mean the rear crossmember or are you talking about more?
Isn't the crossmember welded on the ends to the body?

Its absolutely welded in on the sides. Ive done this job on my 95 RRC. The 95 was harder becuase the loadspace floor is spot welded in. Your 88 should have rivets instead. But its welded in on the sides.

[Kevin88RRC]

Originally Posted by sven

Its absolutely welded in on the sides. Ive done this job on my 95 RRC. The 95 was harder becuase the loadspace floor is spot welded in. Your 88 should have rivets instead. But its welded in on the sides.

Since I don't know how to weld, is there a way to bolt/screw together?
Just a stupid thought would JB weld work in this situation? (I know stupid right)

[p76rangie]

The whole rear frame is one piece and should be simply bolted in. The frame is the section circling the rear hatch section and is a few inches deep. So the roof screws onto it, it unbolts from the sides from behind the rear side side windows and just behind the rear tail lights and is pop riveted to the rear of the corrugated floor section. I have one in my shed, but it would cost a bit to ship it over to you.

[Paul Grant]

We've been down this road before. ALL NAS Range Rovers had welded frames not bolt on frames.

You can buy the lower crossmember and, as Sven said, weld it in. If I recall correctly, he taught himself how to weld doing this particular job. To do the job right requires that there is enough unrusted metal on the sides to weld up to. I did mine less than a year ago and it was not a pleasant task because there was a lot more rust present that appears on your truck.
Good luck,
Paul

[roverandom]

Replace the entire rear cross member, its a integral part of the vehicle structure so to arse about trying to repair a rusted one is a waste of time and effort, especially when a new replacement one can be obtained easily.
Welding (MIG) is not that hard, just takes practise. Enroll in a evening course at a local collage if you want some formal tuition. Alternatively you can borrow a book from your library, buy/beg some scraps and offcuts from a metal supplyer and have at it. For what you will have to pay a shop to replace it you will save enough $$$ to buy a good MIG welder.
No, JB weld is not adequate to repair your rear cross member.
Hope this helps.

[Kevin88RRC]

I will be replacing the whole cross member. I'm having a hard time locating new body mounts.... anyone know where? Will ask RN when I order but I did not see them on their site.

The old one is just spot welded in right? Just drill or chisel them out?

Still wish I could find someone to do the welding. It would be great to take a class and do it myself, but currently don't have the time and welders are $$$. Cheapest I've found is around $300. Have a few more local leads that I hope will work out.

[Kevin88RRC]

Finally getting some time to tackle this. Crossmember is ordered and have leads on someone to weld.

Probably another stupid question, but does the gas tank have to be dropped??? It only gets welded at the ends right?

[Kevin88RRC]

Also.... is this the only place where it gets welded??

[ArmyRover]

I'd have to go look and see how close the tank is Kevin, but if it's as close as I vaguely remember, I probably would extra work is better than a possible flaming death.

I'd ask the guy doing the welding if he would prefer it dropped. He's the one that's throwing sparks so let him make the call.

[yieldsign2]

I did mine too.. I think i got the part from DAP for 125 or so. Wasn't THAT bad a job.

[sven]

Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC

Also.... is this the only place where it gets welded??

Its there and also below that..Its spot welded to the taillight area. You'll see what Im talking about when you remove the bumper. It should take the welder about 2 minutes to weld it in!