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#1 (permalink) |
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1990 RRC
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Newport, Rhode Island
Posts: 18
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Hey everyone,
Here is a quick classic newbee question. I have the correct replacement rear rotors from our friends at R.North. I have changed all of her brake pads before and am familiar with that basic operation. Could someone take the few seconds I'm sure are only required to walk me through the process of unbolting/freeing these rear rotors? I'm fairly educated on most the unique angles of our axles thanks to you guys... But I'd rather not be crossing anything up on such a novice maintence operation. Much thanks in advance. you guys rule. greg |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 26
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Allrighty then......the following is conjecture based on educated guesses....
You don't give us a year...... The Rave disc gives no procedure for disc removal for either the ABS or non ABS version..... The one line for caliper removal is "remove bolts and caliper" (this is after pad and ABS sensor removal). I am assuming that the disc comes right off, just like many other vehicles.....the drawings show nothing holding them on...... Now you know what I know. I have never removed these suckers and I am 1100 miles from my tech-center, (fancy word for workshop) and Rover collection.
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1962 SII-a 109 Mr.Toad 1991 RRC Parting out..... 1989 RRC Parting out.... |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tragic Kingdom, CA
Posts: 16
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I too have a 90 RRC.
Remove the caliper mounting bolts, set caliper aside supported by a wire or bungee cord. ROTORS: You need to remove the dust cap, followed by the circlip. Remove the 5 bolts holding the metal plate (aka Drive member), the paper gasket will be replaced with a new one. Make sure you have new ones handy. Then you need a 52mm socket to remove the lock nuts. You can find this socket from many on-line retailers (I have an 2 1/16" socket that works ok, it's a tad larger than the nuts). There is a lock washer and keyed washer, the lock washer will be replaced with new ones, make sure you have them. You'll see the bearings in the hub, just pull out the rotor and make sure not to drop the bearings. Turn the rotor with lugs facing a table, You need to remove the 5 nyloc nuts and then the ABS sensor ring will come off. Clean the sensor ring of any debris. Now you will see 5- 12point bolts that need to be removed. I used my 1/2 air gun to remove them. I also made sure to remove any surface rust on the hubs mating surface. Place new rotor onto hub and tighten the bolts. Install the ABS sensor ring and use blue thread locker or fit new nyloc nuts. Make sure the bearings are repacked with fresh grease, and that the seal is still serviceable. If in doubt, replace the bearings, races and seals. Installation is the reverse of removal. CALIPERS AND PADS: Make sure you have the revised factory anti-rattle shims for the rear pads. 2 per each caliper, they are directional. I've used several different brands of pads and they all squeak. I have even chamfered my pads with no success (works on my other cars thou). Oh and don't try to reuse the pad hardware, some pads come with new bars and springs, if not, they are cheap from the on-line retailers. Stick with genuine brand as some after market brands were made too short and you can't fit the cotter pins. I should also say that you should inspect the condition of the caliper seals. Now would be a good time to rebuild them. Knowing that most Rover owners are thrifty, they seem to neglect routine maintenance. The parts are not expensive, just takes time to do, but I like to have piece of mind when it comes to brakes. Best of luck! |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Milton Keynes, UK
Posts: 38
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This is how I did the hubs on my 1985 non-ABS model. There will be detail differences, but it gives the general idea. I didn't need to change the discs, but you can easily see what's needed.
http://www.geoffrey-miller.demon.co....hubs/index.htm Also, do make sure that you have the ABS sensors properly fitted at the end, if you don't you'll get an error code which will mess up the system. Hope it helps, but PLEASE do read the manual first for torque settings and safety issues.
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Geoffrey 1985 4-door Range Rover Classic |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Guilderland, NY
Posts: 749
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Best way to hold the rotor while removing the bolts is to drop it onto the back of the wheel you pulled, otherwise it's tough to get any torque on it. This way you can kneel on the tire and it won't move. Repack your bearings and replace the inner seal while you are in there.
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"The Goat",1973 Series III coil conversion, Daihatsu 2.8 Td, power steering, dual ARBs Etc. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Rebuilding Rover
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: NH
Posts: 1,693
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never realized that the rear rotors were such a pain in the sack. Glad my rear brakes are still in good shape
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"Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." http://snhlr.org/ 91 Range Rover Classic 90 RRC Parts truck 94 Saab gas mileage beater
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#10 (permalink) |
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CLASSICRR
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 15
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HEY WHEN IN DOUBT I GO TO LAND ROVER MANUALS DOWNLOAD HAS DIAGRAMS AND COVERS ALL CLASSICS
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