Removing Crank bolt- Help

[yieldsign2]

Trying to get the crank stuff apart so I can do the timing chain while the heads are off..

What is the best way to get the crank nut loose? is it reverse threaded like the viscous fan nut? I have th eheads off so there isn't much compression to give me resistance to break the nut looose and i'm sure it's torqued down pretty good.

Is there any kind of flywheel lock I can get (or borrow!) for this?

[bartell]

Originally Posted by yieldsign2

Trying to get the crank stuff apart so I can do the timing chain while the heads are off..

What is the best way to get the crank nut loose? is it reverse threaded like the viscous fan nut? I have th eheads off so there isn't much compression to give me resistance to break the nut looose and i'm sure it's torqued down pretty good. Is there any kind of flywheel lock I can get (or borrow!) for this?

Pity, It is wise to "crack" that nut at the outset. It is the highest torqued bolt on the engine.

I can give you two methods...by the book and non-book what we do.

(book)
Remove the plate allowing you access to the flywheel. Use a LARGE screwdriver to wedge the flywheel. Leave the rear wheels on the ground and the handbrake on and the car in gear. Then (after you have removed pulley) give the the bolt a go (it unthreads counter-clockwise) . You will need a breaker bar and and something (thick pipe) to extend it.

If the engine still turns, you can try bracing the damper's shaft with a big pipe wrench.

(non-book)
We simply use the correct socket and a breaker bar, brace the bar to the right (when facing the engine) and flick the starter.

James

[yieldsign2]

I like the flick the starter idea. that'll break the bolt lose you think? If i don't respond back in the next couple days, I died trying!

I don't have rear wheels and getting the screwdriver in the flywheel and stuff sounds like a bitch. Thanks for the help. Any other advice is good!

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by yieldsign2

I like the flick the starter idea. that'll break the bolt lose you think? If i don't respond back in the next couple days, I died trying!

I don't have rear wheels and getting the screwdriver in the flywheel and stuff sounds like a bitch. Thanks for the help. Any other advice is good!

Using the starter motor should be a last resort approach. You have a high risk of doing damage to a number of things.

First approach should be by the book and it should move it in most cases. Second choice would then be a rattle gun.

[TerryS]

Nobody answered your first question, so, yes, it's standard thread, i.e. Right Handed. I guess you'd figure that out with the starter method anyway. Most impact wrenches are worn to the point they won't do it, unless it's a good old Ingersoll Rand. Electric impact wrenches work great (I may eventually get myself one)
The starter method can be risky if you're not careful, and aren't using the correct socket (close enough isn't good enough). That said, I do it all the time.

[bartell]

Originally Posted by yieldsign2

I like the flick the starter idea. that'll break the bolt lose you think? If i don't respond back in the next couple days, I died trying!

Originally Posted by yieldsign2

I like the flick the starter idea. that'll break the bolt lose you think? If i don't respond back in the next couple days, I died trying!

Yes, the slightest flick of the startwer will loosen the bolt sufficiently. However, I am not recommending it for obvious reasons. Use it at your own risk.

That being said, I can tell you that we have been using it for many years, along with everyone else in the professional community.

I have never heard seen or heard of a problem. Of course, assure that the socket chosen fits tightelyl and the breaker bar is correctly braced on the floor with an extension if necessary and in the right direction.

James

[bartell]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

First approach should be by the book and it should move it in most cases. Second choice would then be a rattle gun.

P76rangie! Good to see you following me about!

James

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by bartell

P76rangie! Good to see you following me about!

James

Don't flatter yourself!!

[yieldsign2]

Well, considering I pull the engine from my porsche with a kubota tractor, I think the starter trick won't be so bad.. ;P

if I screw it up, worst case will probably be that I round the bolt and I'll just have to return the timing kit and just hope itll be fine... and upgrade to a 4.2 if it is not fine!

[yieldsign2]

Oh, and where in the factory repair manual does it say these tricks on how to get the bolt lose? I'm looking at the rebuilding engine section for the headgasket job and when it gets to timing it just says "remove crank bolt and remove pulleys"..

[p76rangie]

Originally Posted by yieldsign2

Oh, and where in the factory repair manual does it say these tricks on how to get the bolt lose? I'm looking at the rebuilding engine section for the headgasket job and when it gets to timing it just says "remove crank bolt and remove pulleys"..

There is no "tricks".
But you need to stop the crank from turning and there are various ways of doing that. If it is a manual you can put it in gear. If it is an auto you can jam something into the fly wheel teeth. (I use this method and have a piece of metal that fits neatly in there and stays there) If you have the motor out there are other methods again.

It is just that I have heard people using the starter motor trick with everything still connected up and the motor starts. You have already listed the obvious pitfall of rounding the head of the bolt, etc.

[yieldsign2]

Ah, well with no heads, if the engine starts I think I will have bigger worries then a rounded crank bolt!

[yieldsign2]

Got the bolt off with the starter trick, new timing gears and chains are on, ready to start reassembly of that part of the engine!

[bartell]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

Don't flatter yourself!!

yes dear.

James

[bartell]

Originally Posted by yieldsign2

Got the bolt off with the starter trick, new timing gears and chains are on, ready to start reassembly of that part of the engine!

Good man! It IS a cute trick isn't it? (Thanks for your confidence!) Less than a fraction of a second and you save yourself lots of groaning and moaning. However, it should not officially be recommended. (...and P7rangie heard from someone who heard from someone who said their second cousin thought it was very bad....)

Now for the sad news. You cannot use the same trick to re-torque that bolt. Ergo, as I wrote earlier, you may well need a friend to lock the flywheel while you torque. Putting the gearbox (I am assuming a manual gearbox) in gear and using the hand brake is rarely enough but I would try that first. The torque of that bolt is 271nm (aka 200lbs)

James