alright guys let's stay to the task at hand there are plenty of other threads for us to argue in.
Honestly I was beginning to feel like I was in line for a Noble Peace Prize getting you two to agree on something
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Honestly I was beginning to feel like I was in line for a Noble Peace Prize getting you two to agree on something
I think you will find that we actually agree on most things, but you will simply not see the other post when in agreement. No need to say the same thing again.
You only see us both posting when we disagree with each other.
We are talking about a machine that looses 60-70% of its fuels energy in heat! How hard can it be?
Was there a manual and any test equiptment on scene? Any type of test proceedure?
I get/am so pissed at this type of thing. Tell throw a part at a car, charge the customer and call it 'Diagnosis". Hmm, that didnt fix it! It was bad anyways. No refunds. Heres another part...Shit, that didnt get it, but it was bad anyways.
Its no wonder people have no faith in "mechanics". And, it irrates me because I, even p76 woudl agree, anal retentive to a fault. But, my fixes are good, and stay good.
From what I have been told, the motor was "new" not rebuilt. The injectors, and cam, I think are considered "upgrades" by the previous owner. I put that in quotes because I am not sure, but I know he is a competent mechanic and liked to work on the motor.
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Originally Posted by p76rangie
When it states that the motor had only 15K on it, I am assuming that it would have been since it was supposedly rebuilt, not new. As it did not have the proper injectors in it either, and at least two were faulty It would appear that the motor is of a reasonable age, just rebuilt.
Or did the motor come out of a later model vehicle. Could there be a mismatch of compoents and computer systems.
Can someone provide the engine number to see what it came out of or how old it is?
Engine temp is fine at idle, instant heat when you get on it (worse with "new" wrong injectors than with original wrong injectors).
ECU was swapped for a known good one- no change, so original ECU was reinstalled.
Fuel pressure is spot on (tested on the rail) and stays spot on- it's not fuel volume or pressure related. This was tested with the original wrong injectors on the road with a remote pressure gauge installed.
Idle seems rich, which could support the cam is retarded (not timing, the CAM timing)
Distributor timing is set as per manual, vac advance works ok
i bet a baked wire somewhere in the fuel delivery system could be found, this will cause random no starts and bucking. it did on mine . i found the baked wire at the fusible link coming out of the inertia switch. intermittent fuel pump operation leads to low fuel pressure causing lean misses , no starts and bucking . as far as low vaccuum ... maybe there's a vacuum leak...maybe on the fuel pressure regulator. anyway, there's my two cents. Good luck there fellows
Here is all of my involvement with the motor. I, along with Terry Spencer and Kevin Murphy, helped Bill Falcone put a new 4.0L long block into this blue 1992 RRC. Bill had told us that the long block was purchased from a company that was testing both 4.0's and 4.6's for use in marine applications. Apparently, the company was dissatisfied with the outcome of the tests on the 4.6's and sold off the unused 4.0's at bargain basement prices.
Now, to use a 4.0 block in a RRC you must change the cam. That is a given. Apparently, Bill chose a cam that was hotter than stock. I think, but am not certain the cam came from D&D and I would have expected that it would have performed fine. I also know that I saw Bill driving that truck at British by the Sea a few months after we had helped him install the motor. It was working.
I spoke with Bill briefly about a week ago and he felt that perhaps the cam was a bit too aggressive and changing it may help sort the problems out. Beyond that, I have nothing more to add to this thread.
David, I have no beef with you. I am annoyed that ANYONE would have told you there where parts valued at over $500 in the back of that green RRC. As far as it needing only alternator and a brake switch? Frankly, it looked like DAP had been using that truck to harvest parts while it was sitting in their lot and what WAS in the back qualified as trash for the junkyard. Sell it for scrap and be done with it.
Thanks for the info Paul. I honestly think we're making some headway here.
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"Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom."
Army, I can go up to do some testing on Saturday the 10th if that works for everyone let me know. I would like to test the vac 1st and see if we can find out why the vac. is so low.
I'm still good to go for sat. I have to check but I think another member from SNHLR will be coming up as well.
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"Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom."
good god it's a fawkin Range Rover. Not exactly rocket science.
Nothing wrong with a Crower cam even a "hot" one wont make it run badly occaisionaly....it either will or will not. Same goes for it being timed wrong.
Nothing wrong with 5.0 injectors, I use them on almost all builds.
Did anyone put a thermometer on the cats yet to see which one may be blocked up? The symptoms have been described here fairly well, and over time I have had several "mystery" issues that have had every part in the book thrown at them (by others) and all they really needed was a few good wacks with a hammer (to catch their attention).
I also know that I saw Bill driving that truck at British by the Sea a few months after we had helped him install the motor. It was working.
Yes, when I bought it it ran fine. Bill said he thought there was a slight skip in it when it was running cold, but I never felt it. It went from running great to bucking and stalling out at start up, and not starting at all, in the course of a couple of days. So my thought it with everyone else - if the cam was not right it would not have worked from the get go. If the injectors were not right, they would not have worked from the get go either. But, this truck worked, then it didn't, so it can't be because certain parts are "wrong", it has to be because something broke.
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David, I have no beef with you. I am annoyed that ANYONE would have told you there where parts valued at over $500 in the back of that green RRC. As far as it needing only alternator and a brake switch? Frankly, it looked like DAP had been using that truck to harvest parts while it was sitting in their lot and what WAS in the back qualified as trash for the junkyard. Sell it for scrap and be done with it.
That is what I did. That being said, I still have access to some of the parts on it if we need them next weekend.
that's the $50,000 question Chris after all the stuff that dap tried it still has an issue.
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"Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom."
JESUS WEPT! I would really like to to offer a silver bullet fix for this guys rover but it is difficult enough to give advice via the forum when the info is clear.
How much did he pay for this Rover?
With little to no money and even less mechanical aptitude the purchase of a 'fixer upper' may be a little ambitious, especially a RRC, these things can be a nightmare when you know what you are doing.
In addition to this, if I understand the text correctly, the Rover has been to several different shops and has had a number of undisclosed modifications done by the previous owner.
I'm afraid until some one gets down there and performs some correct diagnostics (which may or may not include a partial engine tear-down) that leads to the root cause of the problem (perhaps more than one) you will be chasing this fault indefinitely.
Perhaps if the fault cannot be quickly and cost effectively identified (considering the owner of the RRC has no mechanical skills, limited means and is already vastly out of pocket with nothing to show but a unreliable, poorly running truck) the case could be made that he should cut his losses and sell the truck and have one of you helpful chaps living in the area give his next purchase a once over before he buys again.
Hopefully after you guys take a look you will be able to give a more concise, first hand account of the symptoms and a parts list of modifications etc. that will better aid those that wish to offer any advice.
If I can help, I will. But to offer any 'solutions' with current info would be pointless speculation at best, and this poor guy has been talked into buying too many needless parts already. Good Luck!
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"Your only supposed to blow the BLOODY DOORS OFF" The Italian job 1969.
So I picked up the truck today and trailered it back to my house. It actually is running just fine.... which is to say it is starting without stalling and allows me to put it into drive without stalling. It runs just like it did when I bought it.
Now...
DAP says that I will not enjoy this level of happiness if I drive it long enough to fully heat up the engine - which I have not: only to the store and around town - as it will quickly overheat. That being said, the coolant light is blinking indicating that it needs coolant... which could solve the problem? Perhaps things are OK? I am keeping my fingers crossed that it could be as simple as a coolant leak that developed in the process of all of this other stuff which would lead to the truck overheating right after having solved the primary problem of it bucking by installing the new injectors.
That being said, DAP says the truck is running "lean" and has VERY low vacuum. Which is Greek to me, so I doubt my excitement is valid, but I am happy to have my truck parked out front of my house again for the first time in five months.
Just thought I would keep the gang up to date of where things are at.
at some point it will break . . . and I will ATTEMPT to fix it!!
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Taos, NM
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not to sound repetitiive , buit i thnk you have an MAF problem, not to repeat dialogue, but the symptoms point to an MAF through what I delt with in aa mitsubishi Turbo. Maybe, but am not quite sure. Sensors creat problems, period. MAF problems fall right in your guidelines
__________________ 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR4 717/2000
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1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR4 717/2000
1995 Range Rover CountyLWB AKA Darth Vader,K&N air filter, coil spring conversion, Maxxis Bighorn Mudders 