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Old 05-02-2008, 04:46 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info Paul. I honestly think we're making some headway here.
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Old 05-02-2008, 08:00 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info Paul.

Army, I can go up to do some testing on Saturday the 10th if that works for everyone let me know. I would like to test the vac 1st and see if we can find out why the vac. is so low.
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Old 05-02-2008, 08:12 PM   #63 (permalink)
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im out for going up there just found out mom's is gettin divorced again..and is staying at my place that weekend.....sorry all....
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Old 05-02-2008, 08:43 PM   #64 (permalink)
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I'm still good to go for sat. I have to check but I think another member from SNHLR will be coming up as well.
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Old 05-03-2008, 04:29 AM   #65 (permalink)
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good god it's a fawkin Range Rover. Not exactly rocket science.

Nothing wrong with a Crower cam even a "hot" one wont make it run badly occaisionaly....it either will or will not. Same goes for it being timed wrong.

Nothing wrong with 5.0 injectors, I use them on almost all builds.

Did anyone put a thermometer on the cats yet to see which one may be blocked up? The symptoms have been described here fairly well, and over time I have had several "mystery" issues that have had every part in the book thrown at them (by others) and all they really needed was a few good wacks with a hammer (to catch their attention).
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Old 05-03-2008, 07:24 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Grant View Post
I also know that I saw Bill driving that truck at British by the Sea a few months after we had helped him install the motor. It was working.
Yes, when I bought it it ran fine. Bill said he thought there was a slight skip in it when it was running cold, but I never felt it. It went from running great to bucking and stalling out at start up, and not starting at all, in the course of a couple of days. So my thought it with everyone else - if the cam was not right it would not have worked from the get go. If the injectors were not right, they would not have worked from the get go either. But, this truck worked, then it didn't, so it can't be because certain parts are "wrong", it has to be because something broke.

Quote:
David, I have no beef with you. I am annoyed that ANYONE would have told you there where parts valued at over $500 in the back of that green RRC. As far as it needing only alternator and a brake switch? Frankly, it looked like DAP had been using that truck to harvest parts while it was sitting in their lot and what WAS in the back qualified as trash for the junkyard. Sell it for scrap and be done with it.
That is what I did. That being said, I still have access to some of the parts on it if we need them next weekend.
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Old 05-05-2008, 08:07 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Well? What was wrogn with it?
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Old 05-05-2008, 09:43 AM   #68 (permalink)
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that's the $50,000 question Chris after all the stuff that dap tried it still has an issue.
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Old 05-05-2008, 10:56 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Well, at the very least, the $3000 question.

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that's the $50,000 question Chris after all the stuff that dap tried it still has an issue.
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Old 05-06-2008, 02:52 PM   #70 (permalink)
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JESUS WEPT! I would really like to to offer a silver bullet fix for this guys rover but it is difficult enough to give advice via the forum when the info is clear.

How much did he pay for this Rover?

With little to no money and even less mechanical aptitude the purchase of a 'fixer upper' may be a little ambitious, especially a RRC, these things can be a nightmare when you know what you are doing.

In addition to this, if I understand the text correctly, the Rover has been to several different shops and has had a number of undisclosed modifications done by the previous owner.

I'm afraid until some one gets down there and performs some correct diagnostics (which may or may not include a partial engine tear-down) that leads to the root cause of the problem (perhaps more than one) you will be chasing this fault indefinitely.

Perhaps if the fault cannot be quickly and cost effectively identified (considering the owner of the RRC has no mechanical skills, limited means and is already vastly out of pocket with nothing to show but a unreliable, poorly running truck) the case could be made that he should cut his losses and sell the truck and have one of you helpful chaps living in the area give his next purchase a once over before he buys again.

Hopefully after you guys take a look you will be able to give a more concise, first hand account of the symptoms and a parts list of modifications etc. that will better aid those that wish to offer any advice.

If I can help, I will. But to offer any 'solutions' with current info would be pointless speculation at best, and this poor guy has been talked into buying too many needless parts already. Good Luck!
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Old 05-08-2008, 09:01 PM   #71 (permalink)
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So I picked up the truck today and trailered it back to my house. It actually is running just fine.... which is to say it is starting without stalling and allows me to put it into drive without stalling. It runs just like it did when I bought it.

Now...

DAP says that I will not enjoy this level of happiness if I drive it long enough to fully heat up the engine - which I have not: only to the store and around town - as it will quickly overheat. That being said, the coolant light is blinking indicating that it needs coolant... which could solve the problem? Perhaps things are OK? I am keeping my fingers crossed that it could be as simple as a coolant leak that developed in the process of all of this other stuff which would lead to the truck overheating right after having solved the primary problem of it bucking by installing the new injectors.

That being said, DAP says the truck is running "lean" and has VERY low vacuum. Which is Greek to me, so I doubt my excitement is valid, but I am happy to have my truck parked out front of my house again for the first time in five months.

Just thought I would keep the gang up to date of where things are at.
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Old 05-09-2008, 03:41 AM   #72 (permalink)
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Congrats on getting her back home.

Is it this weekend that the gang is coming over to help???
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Old 05-09-2008, 04:54 AM   #73 (permalink)
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not to sound repetitiive , buit i thnk you have an MAF problem, not to repeat dialogue, but the symptoms point to an MAF through what I delt with in aa mitsubishi Turbo. Maybe, but am not quite sure. Sensors creat problems, period. MAF problems fall right in your guidelines
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Old 05-09-2008, 05:35 AM   #74 (permalink)
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John and I are still heading up there on sat around 10 am to look it over and do a by the book diagnosis based on Elementals steps.

I'm kinda curious about it running fine now lol
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:28 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Well I need to be really clear: I don't know that it is running fine now. I just know that it is not instantly stalling out and driving around town last night it did fine and the temperature remained in the green.

I did not take it on the highway - which is where real problems develop in that it can not handle any real power - because my buddies new bumper is in the truck and I did not want to get decapitated if I got an an accident. I will take it out and about this evening and get it on the highway. This is the first time I have driven it since the new injectors went it. DAP said that most recently the engine was overheating and bucking and hardly running. I'l test it out again tonight, but I am planning on cooking for Army Rover and whomever comes tomorrow with him, so I will post my findings then.
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