Shows who really knows what they are talking about. The single biggest reason for breaking something in the drive train is shock loading. That is, spinning wheels and then suddenly gripping on something. This is usually caused by the driver only knowing how to apply power rather than technique.
You cannot get better grip than road tyres on a sealed road. So if you are saying that it is the extra grip of bigger tyres causing things to break, then why don't they break when you are driving on the road.
There is a interesting track that I have done many times. It requires a vehicle with descent size tyres and at least 1 diff lock to make it. So it is getting close to a hard track (but not hard). I have taken many vehicles up and down this track. In daylight and night, every thing from series vehicles to Disco 2's. Regularly have panel damage and put a D 2 on its side. But never break things in drive train, even having a bit of fun and taking the more impossible options.
A mate who comes out with me regularly decided to take 3 of his other mates who all owned rangies and asked me to come along. Even though these other rangies had simex tyres, maxi-drive axles, diff locks, etc, I knew they would break something because of their driving nature. So I left my vehicle at home as I did not want to be recovering these people all day. But I went in my mates Rangie. About 1/3 of the way up the track one rangie did his crown wheel and pinion in the front. About another 3rd of the way up the track a second Rangie blew a CV and then attempting to recover his vehicle, blew the other CV. The 3rd Rangie nearly got to the top and noticed his gear lever moving wildly. He had ripped out 3 out of the 4 engine/transmission mounts. My mate and I had to try winching and snatching them up the track until he flattened his batteries so much that the car would not longer start.
We ended up strapping in the motor on the rangie with the broken mounts and going to get my Rangie to recover them.
Some photos of the track are below. The light (kermit) green rangie is my mates (he didn't break), but the other rangies in the phots did not make it. The Discos in the photos (another trip, same track) did not break anything.
So don't try and impress me by the things you have broken or try and tell me that a person that doesn't break things doesn't do harder stuff. Except for bad luck, breaking things simply means that you can't drive your vehicle and have little chance of getting home without the help of others.
X 2weight , rolling diameter would be twp of the very first things to make a 10 spine go ping .10 spine axles are only rated to a 28 inch tire in casting spec's ..
I should tell that to my 10 spline axles
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sith
X 2Trailing arms bend with travel and large diameter tires , simple suspension maths tells you that ..
Can you explain the maths. The usual reason for bending a trailing arm is belting it on a rock or tree stump.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sith
X 2ARB wont even warrant thier lockers in a Rover if you exceed recommended tire size of 28 inches ..
You know this from experience?? I have had my lockers back to ARB a couple of times. They can't do enough for you. Tyre size was never even asked and not mentioned after their test drives.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sith
X 2If you can 4x4 in serious conditions without slippage , and a touch of the skiiny pedal ....well i would be more than suprised .
Not sure what you mean by this as you have stated that the extra grip of tyres break things, so spinning wheels should be safe by your books.
I am not sure why you would be breaking things with your TDi.
I have already seen Sith's photos of taking the one rut at 10 different angles. But would love to see some shots from Nomar, fivespddisco and Funrover.
It is a bit hard taking a photo of your own vehicle while you are driving it. But there are a couple of my Rangie amongst the photos. But the photos are all of trips I was on and the tracks I have driven. But just to annoy you a little more, virtually none of the photos are of the hard tracks. Usually too busy or not able to stop to take photos on the more interesting tracks. There is only one or two photos in the ones I posted that on hard tracks and you will not pick them, as a photo does not depict the aspects of a track that make them hard. But of course you know that, dont you.
There is actually 15 vehicles in those photos. Do you want to know who owns them?
You're right, Ian, there is not use in having HD axles. The stock ones will never break if you "know how to drive".
......you keep telling yourself this. That way you can justify not being able to afford them. When you finally do break and axle, and you will if you go off-road, I hope it grenades your diff and you have to walk out. Maybe then you'll understand what people are trying so hard to pound into your thick ass water head. It just makes sense to upgrade a part so vital to the truck. Why risk it?
Last edited by Roverzuce : 04-17-2007 at 12:03 PM.
There are a couple of points people are forgetting:
1. The terrain, rock crawling is a different ball game to mud plugging.
2. Diff lockers, these add vastly more strain on the drivetrain components.
I don't run 35's, but I run agressive 33's (Simex Jungle Trekker II's) and so far have not had any issues. But I don't rock crawl, mud is more the thing here. But never forget driver is a big part of it as well.
From personal experience it's the diffs I've seen let go, at least 3 or 4 but I've never seen a a driveshaft or CV give out.
Some after market diff gears are stronger than stock and worth the money, plus many people sell HD axles if needed as well.
Oh yeah, I don't off road either.....
__________________ Land Rover Discovery (3 Door) 200Tdi 5-speed Mods:Allisport LARGE FMIC | Allisport Tuned | Simex Jungle Trekker II 33.11.50R15 Tyres | 15x8 8 Spokes | Heavy Duty Uprated Suspension (shocks & springs) | Wheel arch Flares | 1" Wheel Spacers | Custom Straight Thru Exhaust | Custom Trimmed Front bumper with twin NATO Hooks | Custom Rear Bumper with single Large NATO Hook 360˚ Swival | Front Light Guards | Custom Aluminium Rear Floor | Bonnet Straps | 100w Spot Lights | Upgraded Headlights
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