Running fine and then it just stopped

[OkieRover]

I had just finished installing my repaired radiator on my 1993 Range Rover LWB. The battery was dead so I put the trickle charger on her. The next day I went out and started her and let her idle. After a 15 minutes or so, I decided to take her for a test drive.

Everything was fine. Ran like I would expect her to. As I came home I guided her around one of the traffic calming devices and as I came out she died. No sputter just dead.

I got out and started looking for problems.

I have spark.
I tested the coil and have a nice strong spark.
I tested the distributor and have spark to the plugs.

I have fuel.
I pulled one of the lines on the fuel rail and have fuel there.

I have air.
I pulled the MAF from the air filter just to make sure I hadn't sucked a rag in the air filter.

I checked all my connectors and reseated them.
On the coil.
On the MAF.
On the temperature coolant sensor.

The last time I drove her I got an Error 17 (throttle position sensor). She still ran and I drove her once more after getting that initial code.

At this point though, she will crank but will not start.

Could the Throttle Position Sensor cause that? I thought I read that on a forum somewhere over the years.

How do I test the Throttle Position Sensor?

I posted this on Rangerovers.net/forum as well.

[Racer X]

Are the injectors firing? Fuel pressure is great, but if the injectors aren't firing, it's a moot point.

I'd pull a plug or two and crank the engine. You should smell raw fuel coming from the port. If you don't, the injectors aren't firing.

FWIW, the leads from the coil to ground and to the ECU on mine were in a pretty bad way when I installed my GM 4 wire module. So much so that I ended up redoing everything.

[OkieRover]

Injectors are firing. I put a stethoscope to them last night. They were making that lovely clicking sound like you would expected.

Funny you mention smell raw fuel. I was talking to another friend who had a similar problem with one of his Jags. He said the fuel had gone bad and his just stopped. I was not overwhelmed by the smell of the fuel coming out during my test.

So we are looking at maybe some bad fuel. It would make sense she has sat longer than she normally does. So I'm going to get some GOOD petrol (not that ethanol crap) and try to change the conditions inside the tank.

[OkieRover]

I am getting close to solving this issue. Would any of you believe BAD GAS?
We put 4 gallons of fresh petrol in the tank last night and after a few cranks and some coughing and choking she started. And she ran for a good 15 minutes. Eventually though I'm guessing the tank settled again and I got more bad fuel and we never again got her started.

I'm guessing I'm going to be getting the fuel sorted out on Saturday. I'm not sure if I will drain the tank or just keep adding more until the mixture is combustible.

More later.

[OkieRover]

ITs not bad gas. It's something electrical getting hot and then causing the engine to shut off and not restart. More after I get my starter rebuilt.

[OkieRover]

Sorry to take so long to get this fixed. I had to finish the semester. Finished last night.

I ordered a cap and rotor and a new coil. I put them on last night and she started up on the first turn of the key.

I left her running in the driveway for an hour with the bonnet down. Got her up to temp. No problems.

I'm surprised by that a little only because I put a coil in within the last 3 years for sure.

Thanks for all the help <strike>everyone</strike> RacerX.

[brider]

Still sounds to me like the classic ignition-module problem that myself and MANY others have had. Difference: Mine would always re-start very soon after dying completely.

If you HAVEN'T done the very simple GM ignition-module swap, I'd think about it.

[OkieRover]

Originally Posted by brider

If you HAVEN'T done the very simple GM ignition-module swap, I'd think about it.

I should have mentioned that I did that swap in 2004 or there abouts.