Running Hot, Running Hot, Running Hot - Land Rovers Only

Ian Larsen · 07-01-2009, 09:04 AM

As mentioned in my other posts, I recently bought a 95 RRC SWB with a blown engine. I put in a new engine supplied by Tidewater Rover.

When I got the vehicle back from my mechanic after the engine install, the weather was still cool. Once the summer warmed up, I discovered two things:

1. The AC compressor was blown and would need to be replaced.

2. Even without operating AC, the vehicle would run hot when stuck in traffic on a warm day.

I prioritized the overheating issue and had my mechanics replace the fan clutch. The difference was immediate and seemed to solve the problem entirely. I could tell the fan clutch was working better because of the distinctly louder fan sound at a cold start.

The mechanics had also planned to replace the switch for the electric fans in front of the radiator when they replaced the clutch, but the part was delayed, so we decided to forgo the switch since the clutch seemed to fix the issue well.

A few weeks later, we installed a rebuilt AC compressor. Everything was running perfectly for a while, but two weeks ago the car started running hot again when the AC was running. Since that time, it has also run hot a few times even with the AC off. After discovering this new overheating problem, I noticed that I was no longer hearing the louder fan sound from the fan clutch at cold start. I should point out that the electric fans DO kick in correctly when the AC is running.

So:

1. Could my new fan clutch have frozen up this quickly? Is there something about putting in a new AC compressor that would cause it to freeze up?

2. If it's not the fan clutch again, what else could be going on?

3. Other words of wisdom?

I very much enjoy this vehicle, but I've got to get this problem fixed!

Thanks in advance.

lsawicki · 07-01-2009, 10:37 AM

How about the thermostat? If it's getting stuck in the closed position, it won't allow coolant to flow through the radiator in and through the engine

Ian Larsen · 07-01-2009, 11:23 AM

I believe the thermostat was replaced when the new engine was installed. I'll double check, though.

57loboy · 07-01-2009, 11:33 AM

Also check to see that it is the right way around when installed. What's the condition of the radiator? Are you losing coolant anywhere?

TerryS · 07-01-2009, 12:22 PM

Are the electric fans coming on when you turn on the AC? AC adds additional load to the engine, and as temp goes up the fan switch should also turn them on.
Viscous fan clutches very rarely "freeze up" in the lockup position. if they did, you'ld be getting full fan flow, not deminished flow. When they fail, they DON"T go into lockup. Aftermarket clutches last about 2-3 years and Genuine lasts a bit longer.
I would be willing to bet your radiator is junk at this age. You can waste a little money and have it boiled or flushed, but LR horizontal pass radiator cores are too narrow to 'rod', which is simply, removing the tanks and ramming a wire though the cores: Waste of time and money.
Get yourself a Pro-Line replacement from Rovers North and be done with it. It's a better radiator than original.

Jonesy · 07-02-2009, 10:13 AM

TerryS is right - but they dont carry the Proline anymore! I believe the one thy have is the OME.

Or at least I couldnt get it last time I tried.

TerryS · 07-02-2009, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jonesy

TerryS is right - but they dont carry the Proline anymore! I believe the one thy have is the OME.

Or at least I couldnt get it last time I tried.

Yup, You're right, and $800 too! Damn, the Proline was under $400.
Get that sucker recored.

Davisch75 · 07-02-2009, 05:13 PM

I seem to have the same problem in my 95 rrc lwb i just filled up the coolant tank and when i let it sit idle the temperature shoots up for no apparent reason and it didnt start happening untill my uncle and i took it to a spray wash and cleaned and degreased the engine and after we did this the engine kept stalling and we figured the distributer cap got wet and we kept fighting the engine to keep it running and it finally started firing off right but when we pulled in the drive way we saw the temp was off the chart and so we figured it was out of coolant so i filled it up today and and started it up and and it just smelt like it was burning off and then i rolled up the windows up to get away from the smell so i turned on the AC and then my engine just started shaking like crazy then the temp shot up again so i just turned it off and I'm just full of questions.

Populus · 07-02-2009, 08:19 PM

Help, sure! Keep off the meds and try using punctuation!

Jack-the-Lad · 07-02-2009, 08:30 PM

I had the radiator on my '89 boiled/flushed/whatever and now the needle barely gets off the peg, and I'm in south Florida.

Populus · 07-02-2009, 08:32 PM

Thermostats come in different temp ratings! Make sure it opens at the indicated temp.

To test stick the thermostat in a pot of water with a thermometer , heat and watch the thermostat open note the temp.

Often forget the rad, its 15 years old filled with slimy goo.

Another thing I saw happen when a replacement engine was installed, the water passages where so filthy it impeded the flow.

If stuck with engine overheating , a quick and dirty trick is to switch on the heat, A/C off, and fan to full. Its a killer on the body, but might save that engine. This is not a remedy just a save your engine stunt.

Based on the overheating probs, I had, most of the components had failed.

Thermostate shot, kinked hoses, and had the rad replaced. Now as for the viscous fan, they usually last longer that a few months, but you could of had a bad one.

Rover V8 do not like overheating! Take the time and get the parts looked at or replaced.

Another thing if you did any offroading in mud the section in between the rad and the condensor is surely full of mud and does obstruct the airflow over the rad.

Hope this helps