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Old 03-19-2007, 08:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default runroverrun not runnng

here goes ,newbie, have read many threads and have used your help many many times, but i am stuck.

not running,

fuel pressure, ok
fuel in truck, check
new spark plugs,
new spark wires,
new cap,
new roter,

drove from IL to SD fine. then after 3months it started to "act as if" it was flooding out. Had to pump the gas to keep her running. it got worse, run with a little brake at stop signs to keep her going. then that day came, she is sitting in the driveway and just sitting.

Do i need to move back to IL?

thanks in advance for the direction to get her back to runroverrun.

just put new tires on her?
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Old 03-19-2007, 08:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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ps 1995 LWB classic, 109,000
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Old 03-20-2007, 05:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Are the plugs flooded? Do you have good spark? That drove me nuts for 3 day's cause the plugs were wet. I replaced a lot of stuff for no good reason, it needed it but it could have waited. Is you coil good how about ign amp?

Compare new and old rotors. Are the connectios to your coil good and clean. I had a bad connection that turned something on/off in the engine bay that when disconnected the engige would turn but not fire. Cleaned the spade connector and it ran.

It's most likely something simple. pull plugs clean and dry or get new ones. check for spark. At the coil aand at the plug. Timing?

Start with the small easy stuff first fuel/spark/ compression.

good luck
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Old 03-20-2007, 12:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default follow up

replaced plugs with new,

rotor is new and clean

what and how do i check the timing.
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Old 03-20-2007, 06:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You'll need a timing light to check your timing. The directions for its use are usually in the box.

But, before you check the timing, you should check your spark. You can do it with insulated pliers by holding the spark plug wire a short distance from the top of the spark plug, then have an assistant crank the motor. If a spark jumps the gap, you've got spark. If it doesn't, it is perhaps premature to check the timing. (Safety warning: don't use your bare hands for this test! The 20,000-60,000 volts from a modern high energy coil can stop your heart dead in a flash. Use insulated pliers, and a set of rubber gloves isn't a bad idea either.)

The symptoms of a failing Capacitive Discharge Ignition module are much the same as for failing points and condensor... intermittent misses, black smoke, tough time idling without a little gas to keep it running, and sometimes failure to keep running after some indeterminate "warm-up time" before the engine starts to run roughly. The symptoms of a failed coil are usually more elusive, such as failure to run on moist days, but fine running in dry weather. If you have known good ignition modules and coils to swap into your truck (one at a time only) you can often quickly figure out which component is failing. Just remember that most auto parts stores don't allow returning electrical components, so you'll want to track down someone local who has a '95 like yours, if there's anyone in your local Rover club that has one.

Good luck.

Scott
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Old 03-20-2007, 07:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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When my ignition module failed it ate 2 coils before I figured it out. Also it had spark but it was a weak spark. Relocation module for the win!
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i noticed that the powersteering oil is low, is there a sensor on that, i am parked on an incline.
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Leaking injectors? More likely to see leaky injectors over 150K but ya never know....
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Old 03-28-2007, 07:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Default RunRoverRun Where are you?

Are you in South Dakota? If so, where are you at?

I ask only because I am and there's not many of us here!

Oddly enough, I'm having the same problems right now with my '90 RRC. The past two rainy days have rendered me Roverless.

All I can do is use process of elimination at this point. It's pretty frustrating.
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