Reading the trusty Haynes, I see there is a split 12v power supply off the alternator somewhere (I have a 1989-manufactured, 1990-model RRC County). Trouble is, the manual only says that there is one, not where it lurks in the real world that lives under the hood.
I'm wiring up a seven-pin hitch connector to a travel trailer, and need a power supply to run through it. I bet the (currently) redundant spur would be the ideal place from which to draw that supply, but... where is it physically??? Damned if I can find it. Anyone offering help, I will as ever transfer your words into pictures and post 'em below to help folks in the future with the same query.
Also, I'd like to put a couple of deep-cycle RV batteries in the footwell of the (now removed) back seat. The same power spur would be the place to feed them from, right? But in what way would I wire them so that I get twice-as-long at 12v, rather than 24v and boil my accessories? Note that I've installed an isolator right at the +ve terminal of the battery to ensure that one remains full regardless of what I plug in to the others.
And ArmyRover, my family and I thank you and all your colleagues for your service, and wish a safe, soon and prosperous return to you all.
I had already seen (when physically following the wires out of the altenator) and discounted him, because all he seems to be is a joint between two cables - from the alternator and to the starter motor. I was expecting a stub end somewhere.
If he is the Split Power Take-Off, then how do I go about using him? I mean, if I simply attach another cable at that nut, surely the motor battery won't automatically take charging precedence, will it?
Reading the trusty Haynes, I see there is a split 12v power supply off the alternator somewhere (I have a 1989-manufactured, 1990-model RRC County). Trouble is, the manual only says that there is one, not where it lurks in the real world that lives under the hood.
I'm wiring up a seven-pin hitch connector to a travel trailer, and need a power supply to run through it. I bet the (currently) redundant spur would be the ideal place from which to draw that supply, but... where is it physically??? Damned if I can find it. Anyone offering help, I will as ever transfer your words into pictures and post 'em below to help folks in the future with the same query.
Also, I'd like to put a couple of deep-cycle RV batteries in the footwell of the (now removed) back seat. The same power spur would be the place to feed them from, right? But in what way would I wire them so that I get twice-as-long at 12v, rather than 24v and boil my accessories? Note that I've installed an isolator right at the +ve terminal of the battery to ensure that one remains full regardless of what I plug in to the others.
And ArmyRover, my family and I thank you and all your colleagues for your service, and wish a safe, soon and prosperous return to you all.
Wire the deep cycle batteries in parallel. You MUST use exactly the same brand and age of batteries when you do this. If you are connecting these 2 deep cycle batteries on the main + of the 12V you also will have to change the vehicle battery to match the other 2 deep cycle batteries.
A better alternative would be to use either a relay or a battery isolator to allow charge current to flow into the 2 deep cycle batteries but not to discharge into the vehicle battery.
You can charge batteries of different types in parallel (+ to + and - to - )but not discharge them. The problem is that higher capacity batteries will discharge into the lower capacity ones.
So there is a relay available on the market which I would install somewhere between the alternator and the main (motor) battery, off which I also install a spur to the deep cycles? And this relay then charges the main battery until it's full, then switches over to the deep cycles? And it will keep switching between the two as neccesary as the main discharges through the use of lights etc?
If so, that's exactly what I need. I already have an isolator fitted on the dash which cuts off the main battery completely, from everything, for like when I leave the vehicle unused for weeks.
With that relay I'd be able to isolate the main, use the deep cycles all night or until they went flat, switch on the isolator and still start the RR, and then recharge the deep cycles as I drove, never putting the main battery at any peril of ever running out? That would be incredible! Is it do-able?
Further, the power line to the trailer... would it also be fitted after the relay, off the deep cycle spur?
And in the mean time, can somebody please advise as to the power supply to the trailer. Can I as an intermediate measure run the cable from the connection in the image above? Or from where, otherwise?
There are so many choices of options depending on your strategy to give you a reserve starting and a "house battery system"
Here is how I did this on one of my past trucks.
1. Installed an "A-B" battery selector switch. These are the big red battery switches available from at boating supply stores like Overtons.
2. I added a low current relay -- almost anything will do that can handle about 20 amps A headlight or horn relay will work.
3. I added a thermal auto-reset breaker (available at any auto parts store) sized to the relay above. This goes in series with the relay + lead from the main battery to the alternator.
The way the system works is that the relay coil is connected to any lead that is hot with the ignition on. This way the charging voltage from the alernator will only connect to the aux batteries when the engine is running. The breaker is there in case the battery is highly discharged and the charging current exceeds the relay rating.
In my case, I ran seperate power feeds to my camping accessories like inverter and 12V outlets and never used the Vehicle lights. If you use the A-B switch, you can run your main truck power from either battery which will give you more versitility.
You can also buy a diode-type battery isolater that is simpler to hook up.
If I have more time, I can write up schematic and post it.
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