OK. I have HD coil springs (1-2" lift from stock), and bilstein shocks all the way around.
I've driven the truck with the stock springs back in teh day.
The setup now is okay, but it is pretty rough on the road. We got the HD shocks partially for handling without sways, and partially for the lift. I still dream of how the truck felt with teh stock springs hitting bumps and not knowing they were there. Also, articulation would be better with a softer spring.
1. What is the springrate of stock RRC springs?
2. What is the diameter of stock RRC Springs?
3. What is the height of stock RRC Spring, unloaded, off the truck?
4. It seems when you go to a lifted spring, it's always a higher springrate. Why is this?
5. Could you not achieve a lift by installing a spring with the springrate of the stock spring, but with more coils/taller than the stock spring?
6. I was thinking if I knew the springrate I could either have a longer spring made with that springrate, or even find another make vehicle that has longer springs stock, of the same diameter and springrate.
Or am I totally off on the concept, and a longer spring with the same "springrate" has a higher springrate because of its length?
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Devon Yablonski
1989 Range Rover Classic - Running and Muddy
1987 and 1988 Range Rover Classic - Parts
Landrover make many springs of different heights and rates. You can pick which ones suit you. The reason that most aftermarket springs are HD is that 99% of 4WDs never go off road and HD springs give the best handling on road. So they develop them for 99% of the market rather than the 1%. If you read most of the comments on this forum about their new springs, the most common one is that they improved the handling of the vehicle.
im guessing you either went with the OEM HD springs, or you got some HD EMU springs. word has it that RTEs and BBs are a bit softer and give a smoother ride.
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Kevin
Owning a Land Rover is like dating a super model. Sure she has expenive tastes, complains a lot, and requires constant attention... but damn...
Yeah, I have the OEM HD's. I was just thinking a 3" longer (3" of lift) equal springrate to stock would be superior, although more dangerous on teh road.
Still looking for some more answers from my original post, but what suppliers do you guys know of for RTE and big blues?
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Devon Yablonski
1989 Range Rover Classic - Running and Muddy
1987 and 1988 Range Rover Classic - Parts
I am both a BB and RTE dealer- I don't have all the spring rate info here at home, but the springs on the RR from the factory have colour markings on them that indicates which length and rate they are. There are dozens and dozens of different rates from stock.
One reason lift springs are usually stiffer is because of the leverage action from the suspension on the springs as you raise the body. A stock rate spring won't be able to properly cope with the weight of the body shifting if the body is lifted two or three inches. You can get a nice soft ride on a lifted truck using BB springs and stock shocks- but you are limited to 2". Three inch shocks will 'top out' a stock shock. The overly firm valving of shocks is the most common reason for an uncomfortable ride though. Shocks aren't the way to control sway- that's what sway bars do (and good bushings are a must). Get some better shocks and your springs will probably be just fine.
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2002 Freelander
2000 DII w/CDL
1967 SIIA 109SW Former Rovers
2004 Modded "S" Disco, R.I.P.
2004 G4 Disco
2002 Modded Freelander
1995 Modded Disco
1994 D-90 #8
1993 NAS D110
1990 Range Rover County
1973 SIII 88
1972 Range Rover 2 door
Steve,
I'd still like to go 3".. Why is 2" the limit? Only because of shocks? I'm willing to get the procomp shocks that are 2" longer.. then are there springs that give you a 3" lift? i understand once you start getting this high other things need to be replaced, but are there big blue springs that do a 3" lift, or am I stuck doing 2" and the rest wiht a spacer?
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Devon Yablonski
1989 Range Rover Classic - Running and Muddy
1987 and 1988 Range Rover Classic - Parts
RRC stock spring rates are 150 front and 189 rear. There are several different springs but your stockers are probably close to that. The OME are much heavier. I think 295 in the rear and 220 or so in the front. As far as shocks go the billies are too short for 3 inches. You can run the AG4x4 shortened shock mounts if you want to keep them, but you might need retainers too. I have your same set up on the wifes 94D1 and love it, although on my trail rig I run some well worn RTE 2" rear and D1 208lb rear springs on the front. I used 1" spacers all around with OME shocks. The ride is pretty soft but it has a winch/bumper and is loaded up with gear which helps! Gordo
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Gordo www.floridalandroverclub.com
94 D1 mall crawler
92 stocker RRC
73 hybrid wheeler
Thats not me airborne but I love the photo!
Devon, you have to ask yourself why you want a 3 inch lift. Becuase of the articulation of the rangie, there is a limit in how long the spring can be. If they are too long they will bend like a banana and pop out the side. So the way to get a 3 inch lift is to make the springs stiffer rather than longer. This gives a harsher ride, less wheel articulation, and causes all sorts of issues with castor angles and prop shafts. So other alternatives to spring lifts are often preferable, but you need to work out what you are try to achieve before you can look at alternatives.