sputtering

[deadboy1977]

I checked all my wires resistance through the cap – all are good.
One thing I did notice and I have read some things about this on the web but I don’t think I ever read the fix or outcome……..
If you give the truck some gas (step on accelerator), like every 3 seconds or so there is a miss. It is not every cycle.
You hear a puff type sound from the exhaust pipe when this happens, a sputter.
I had the throttle at 2000 and 3000 and it still happened there, harder to notice at 3000 though.

I have looked at almost everything - stepper, TPS, T piece, etc - the usual suspects and all are good.

Idle is poor too, sputtery...

ANY IDEAS?

Mike 95RRC 4.2L

[DErangeDrover]

i had issues similar to yours and after many months of checking and replacing and checking again i came to the conclusion it had to be the ignition module (which had been replaced) long story short i installed an msd ignition system and i have had zero problems since my truck runs like a champ and never misses a beat. hope this helps

deranged

[deadboy1977]

OK, but I just had my dizzy tested and overhauled. That did nothing.
I am thinking either

clogged or partially clogged cat - how does one know or check this?
alternator
coil

all cylinders appear to be firing by the look of the spark plugs.
sputtering happens even at 2500 rpms if you listen hard enough.
its not every cycle meaning its not mechanicel - its electrical of some sort

[DErangeDrover]

i understand completly what you are saying in my quest to find the problem i replaced every sensor under the hood that pertains to the efi and ignitions system i replaced the coil (three times) i even went as far as replacing my entire dizzy (twice but one of the times it was under warranty-brand new) like you are experiancing nothing helped i spent MONTHS trying to find the problem then i lucked out. while installing a new dizzy i also intsalled a new coil (msd high vibration) finally it worked properly not sputtering or missing
so off for a test drive, but i didnt get very far about three miles down the road and the thing just shut off. swap coils nothing, tow it back home and replace the ignition amp with one that worked and it would start but the sputtering and missing was back. thats when i decided i had enough of piss poor engineered lucus ignition and went with the msd box and like i said before i have not had problem one since that day it has never failed to fire or run perfectly smooth
i think you are correct it is somthing electrical could be coil or could be ignition amp if either are bad or partially bad you would still get spark but it may not be strong enough or at the right time
let me know what you find out...
deranged

[deadboy1977]

Been getting a code 44 on my 95RRC LWB (left o2 sesnor) now.
The o2 sensors were replaced like 2-3 years ago when I got the codes back then.

Think this one failed? Usually the code points to something else.

It almost seems like my motor misses every xx revolution (its not every revolution, maybe every other or so).

Plus it sputters out the exhaust and is sooty.

I think this is causing the code 44.

Out of these simple things below, write next to them if it could lead to the problem and how you would check (i.e. maybe no check, just replace)

Cracked or defective dizzy cap

Bad wire

Bad connection at fuel injector

Bad coil or coil connector

Partially plugged cat on left side, was thinking of removing o2 sensor on that side and seeing what happens (will be loud)

Replace 02 sensor on LHS (or replace both, any way to test these?)

Replace spark plugs



I am running out of thoughts!


I need to find someone with a scope or something to see whats going on.

Just don’t know who to go to.

[jimfoo]

How is the connector on the O2 sensor? Mine were pretty f-ing oxidized. Did you check the air gap on the dizzy? They can also sputter and miss if the alt is going out.

[deadboy1977]

The connectors are a PITA to get at, on top of the bellhousing behind the plenum on a 4.2
They were OK when I replaced the sensors a couple years back, but I will clean them as a precautionary measure with contact cleaner. I guess some dielectric grease wouldnt hurt?

Dizzy was just rebuilt and air gap set by the professional rebuilder.

[DErangeDrover]

"my dizzy rebuild guy told me that the amp works or it doesnt, no inbetweens.
is this true? Mine is mounted to the dizzy (on the outside). Its a 35DLM8 dizzy."



i noticed you posted this in another thread. unfortunatly your guy is wrong when they start to go bad they can and will cause misfires and or no fire at all . alot of info on the net points to the ignition amp failing at about the 100000-120000 mile range what sucks is there is no real way to check it. it might be time to bite the bullet and change it out or like you said find a mechanic that can connect the thing to a graphing meter to see what its doing my hunch is that the amp is bad

[deadboy1977]

OK might have to get to that
put a vac gauge on my 4.2 tonight
vac was 17 to 17.5 (JUMPS A LITTLE) between these 2 numbers.....does that sound good? sound like a vac leak at all? Also noticed that the injectors can swivel side to side (was checking the wires)....is this normal? Did not get to the o2 sensors but I see the plugs on the bellhousing. They dont make those wires long enough! I remember fishing a solid wire up so I could get them to connect! PITA

[DErangeDrover]

yeah your vac pressure looks good

the shop manual says to messure at the brake booster vacuum line but that the pressure should reach a minimum of .69 bar(10 psi) within 30 seconds at 2500 rpm so im guessing you are good on vaccum pressure and yes the injectors will move a bit or swivel

[deadboy1977]

a 95 doesnt have a brake booster hose........
some people say you should replace the coil with the amp, true?
and to only use the original BOSCH coil too
i appreciate your help!

[DErangeDrover]

yeah my 1990 rover doesnt have the brake booster hose either, thats just what the shop manual says

either way i havent heard to replace both the coil and the amp at the same time but it would probally be a good idea and yes i would use the original bosch coil as a replacement i would also consider getting the relocation kit to move it from the dizzy to the fender by the coil http://rangerovers.net/rrpartsv.htm#classic
check out that website its got alot of good info
like i mentioned before youve also got the option of using the msd ignition if you are interested let me know i can get the part numbers for the set up i used it didnt cost much more than all of the land rover parts and in my mind should be more reliable so just let me know

[deadboy1977]

Ok thanks again

Do you have to take the dizzy apart to install the new amp?
There must be internal connectors or something as I do not see external ones. My amp just screws to the dizzy body and there is a heat sink on the back. No external connector like the 35D8.

[DErangeDrover]

you will most likely have to remove the dizzy to get to the amp. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1184.cfm your amp should look like that one. there will be two flat spades on the side that is against the dizzy(cant see it in the pic or while its bolted to the dizzy) and there will be another connector that the harness plugs into (it can be seen on the top left of the amp in the link)
basically if you pull the dizzy you remove the two screws that hold the amp on, after those are removed pull the amp off, installation is the reverse however make sure you use the little tube of "grease" between the amp and the dizzy when you install the new one. hope this helps

[deadboy1977]

Isn't it true that if the amp was bad, ALL cylinders would have an issue???