stalling???

[DErangeDrover]

ive had my range rover for about three weeks now it was actually driven from nc by the guy i bought it from (he is a good friend so it was a good excuse to visit arkansas) however the few times ive driven it it has stalled out on me. for example i drove it about three miles from my house and it just sputtered out and died. i pulled over and tried to restart with no success so i got out and tried to look for something obvious - nothing there, so as i was waiting for someone to come pull me home i decided to try it one more time and bam started right up drove home just fine. its done this three times now. ive replaced the fuel filter and typical tune up stuff, everything but the coil, and nothing has helped
does anyone out there have any suggestions of things to check it seems like its a fuel problem maybe i should drain my fuel tank? replace the coil? i dont know kinda at a loss here. all of your suggestions would be appreciated by the way its a 1990 range rover classic thanks in advance

[DevynsDad]

Sounds like it might be the coil to me. It doesn't take long for a bad one to get hot and cut out, then once it cools off it'll start right up.

[DErangeDrover]

ok i have replaced the coil and put on new plug wires since i last posted. things seemed to have gotten better but now i can start it when its cold and it runs fine but the warmer the engine gets and the longer it stays running the worse it runs. is there a way to run codes thrown by the computer or do i have to have the "special" code reader from land rover i dont want to keep throwing parts at it in hopes i might get lucky. Mainly because the normal things ive experianced in other vehicles, that can cause these problems (i.e. tps, mass air flow sensor ect.ect...) are pricey and i do mean pricey (as im sure all of you know) well hopefully someone out there has some experiance with these problems please help

[OkieRover]

Has the ignition module been "relocated"???
When mine was failing it ate coils.

[DErangeDrover]

i have not relocated or replaced the ignition module i was just about to break down and buy one of those next according to alot of the info ive read that ignition module can cause poor idle/stumbling if its bad so i guess thats my next route if anyone else has any suggestions let me know the thing seems to run fine when its cold like first thing in the morning but after being driven long enough to really warm up it runs worse and worse until it gets to the point it barely idles and dies its got me stumped oh well off to spend money

[sevenrover]

yeah, I am 90% sure that it is the Ignition Module. I have had a bunch of buddies modules go out as well as mine, so that is it... I hope..

[AAXD]

My 93 Classic used to die a lot at idle. The problem was the idle air bypass motor on the back of the intake plenum siezing up. I removed the 3 allen bolts holding it to the back of the plenum and sprayed it down with carb and choke cleaner. The motor has a small worm screw that pushes and pulls a little cone shaped piece in and out to control the amount of air going into the intake since the butterfly in the intake tube is closed at idle. The problem was that it wasn't opening up when I'd let off the throttle. After a few good spray downs I never had the problem again.

[gordo]

10 bucks it is your amp module. Next time it wont start spray some water on it (side of the dizzy) and cool it down. Bet it starts. The relocation kit is the way to go but DAP sells the original ones much cheaper so I always go that route! Gordo

[DErangeDrover]

ok so the saga continues... the list of components replaced grows

ignition module
coil
plugs
plug wires
cap
rotor
idle control valve
vaccum lines (including flame trap and restrictor T)

now down to the problem when the rover is started from cold it runs and idles fine no problems nice and smooth and everything. after it idles for awhile (15-20 minutes) when i put it in gear it dies. when it first started doing this it was throwing code 48 (stepper motor) hence the replacement since doing so it hasnt thrown the same code or any code for that mater. ive also set base idle speed and its right where it should be. needless to say im stumped ive heard some talk that a bad alternator could possibly cause these sorts of symptoms any thoughts or ideas? i really dont want to keep throwing parts at but i want this thing fixed so i can enjoy it again instead of wanting to set fire to it anways thanks in advance

[bargecapt]

my 95 classic was doing the same thing. drove me crazy, and it took me a while to figure out the problem. it was the new rotor i put in. take your new rotor and compare it with your old one and see if the brass contact are the same length. my new one was about 1/64th off, but it made a world of difference.

[2000discoII]

My 2000 Disco did the same thing. Start up and run fine, 5-10 minutes later stalled. Let sit for 30 minutes or so and it would start back up run fine for a few minutes, then stall.

Mine was the crank sensor. Changed it out and hasn't stalled since.

[DErangeDrover]

im not sure but i dont think the range rover classics had a crank angle sensor someone correct me if im wrong i still havent figured out what is wrong with the thing but i am really leaning toward the alternator anyone have any experiance with alternators causing this type of problem ????

[grtdivide302]

hello,
you are correct, your range rover does not have a crank position sensor.

i had a similar issue of stalling and poor idle with my truck, it turned out to be the distributor base plate.

al

[Kevin88RRC]

Did you relocate the new ignition module or just replace it???

The only other things I can think of are the fuel and coolant temp senders to the ECU. One might be shot and not telling the ECU is up to temp creating a bad mixture. When my coolant temp died, it caused the opposite problem.... bad when cold & fine when warm. Just a thought and they are cheap.