I wouldn't say that this is a new problem, but it is definitely a random problem that has been plaguing my rover for the past year. I guess to start off, I'll begin with a quick background story of the idle problem...
Th rover stalls out very randomly at red lights. I would say this has been happening 5% of the time. Over the past year, it went away for about 5 months. I had an issue with a dirty MAF sensor a while back, and well, long story short, it was K&N filter oil getting on the MAF sensor. There is no black smoke, and the RPMS bounce from 0 to 750 for a few seconds, and then the engine dies. Not the same symptoms as with the MAF sensor. Before I go out and start spending money, I would some help trying to pinpoint the cause of this frustration:
1) Stepper motor has been replaced/cleaned recently
2) O2 Sensor have been replaced recently
3) "New" spark plugs have less than 30k on them
4) Again, this problem is random. After I restart the engine and idle it, it will idle normally, and would probably do so until the gas ran out. I can idle it again for 10 to 15 minutes no problem.
5) On-board diagnostic not throwing any codes
6) I rebuilt the fuel pump yesterday with an Airtex 3240
7) I have run Seafoam through gas tank and intake recently
8) The problem tends to happen after driving on the highway, and usually starts to stutter and stall at a light after highway driving.
9) Fuel filter was replaced about 20K ago and will be replaced tomorrow.
When I first got the car, this problem kept reoccuring for a few months. Finally, for 5 months straight, it did not stall once. After fiddling around with the air filter/MAF sensor/cleaning the throttle did it start acting up again.
This is a very frustrating problem! Any input would be appreciated
Sounds kind of like a failing Ignition Amplifier (rectangular box on side of distributor)...do a search of this forum. I too am experiencing this problem...I'm really contemplating an MSD 6a conversion instead of the going with the status quo. A failing alternator can cause some funky stuff too. Make sure to check all electrical connections in the ignition system...something may be loose.
Good luck...and give a holler back if you find something.
BD
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Also: I forgot to mention that after the rover stalls, she starts up perfectly fine. I've been looking around these forums and it seems as if there is a starting problem after stalling when its the IAM
Have you changed the the spark plug wires?...Possibly the coil wire is going bad...they usually go first from what I've read. Still could be the IAM...they can exhibit funky behavior that is not consistant.
The other day mine started surging...bouncing from 500-1800 rpm...I pulled into a parking lot and popped the hood...started looking for something amis...I pilled the plug on the IACV and it made no difference (BTW this is a NEW IACV...but not genuine), next I unplugged the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)...this made the engine jump up to a somewhat steady 1500 rpms...hmmm. Jumped back behind the wheel...check engine light on due to my fiddling with stuff...so I turn it off and unhook the NEG battery post to reset the ECU...wait 30 sec or so hook it back up and viola...everything's working great. What was the problem??...not a clue...but I suspect TPS is dirty...and I think the IAM is going.
I would make sure all electrical connections are tight and uncorroded. Make sure all your plug wires are on tight...etc...blah, blah, blah.
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Oh wow. Yes, it is these small quirks that drive me mad! Although, to quote someone from this forum..."when she's running fine, there's nothing else on the road I would rather drive." I think I had sort of an epiphany where I slowly connected the dots. I guess I thought it was an unrelated problem:
when I first inherited this car from my father last June (who cured himself of his obsession with this car by giving it to me..) a week or so later I had a seized pulley on the alternator. So I got that replaced with a low-miles used one. It had been 10 months since this incident, and two months ago, I started experiencing horrible squealing sounds on startup, and after 5 seconds it would go away. In the process of replacing my belts to try to rid the squealing, I noticed the the noise was gone with no alternator belt. I put the belts on, but the squealing did not go away. So I narrowed it down to a bad bearing. Whenever I turn the truck off, my battery light flashes for a second as I am turning turning it off. Sometimes, when I load the pulley/bearing up with some good ol WD40 the squealing goes away AND the battery light does not come on when turning the truck off. Once the lubricant dries out though, the problem is bad. Do the dots seem to be connecting? Could it be my alternator??
I will also add that for pretty much 6 or 7 months straight, this problem was non-existant!
I talked to my dad about what else has been replaced, and the coil/distributor/IAM/plugs/wires have been replaced all within 25k miles. Do you think the IAM would go so fast??
It could have...from what I understand regading Lucas parts...its a total crap shoot getting good/bad parts...that's assuming your dad had the work done by the dealer using genuine parts.
The problem with the IAM is its location...it gets extremely hot there and that's what causes it to fail...there is a relocation kit thru Atlantic British (big$$) or you can DIY...just do a search for ignition module relocation.
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What about the ignition switch? My daughters car was doing the same thing I replaced the ignition switch and it works fine. It is a simple cheap fix, but cost me 500.00 and some shock therapy but its fixed.
DigginDisco, thanks for the input...but guess what? I already replaced the damned ignition switch! And yes it was a cheap replacement...it was only $150 at my mechanic!
HOWEVER: There is a new development....CODE 44! After I called my mechanic (@ British Auto Center...amazing mechanics and so much better than the stealer) to set up an appointment for diagnostic, the damn check engine light comes on. I don't know if this is a problem or a symptoms because:
a) it took a long time for the check engine light to come on, leading me to believe there is something earlier in the MFI/Emission control system that may have caused the left bank o2 sensor to finally foul up.
b) I replaced both my o2 sensors at 132k (about 10k ago).
c) Almost all of my engine compartment sensor connections were cleaned with electrical cleaner and dabbed with di-electric grease to protect them from the elements, so I'm pretty sure I can rule out corrosion of electrical components out.
d) Once the o2 sensor code was thrown i was getting the typically symptoms, eg., black smoke, stalling, etc., but did not get the black smoke before...
I'm schedule for an appointment to test my amplifier module, check the fuel pressure at different points, swap the fuel filter, and check out my alternator. Hopefully it will throw them some codes.
nope, I ran seafoam through the vaccuum line about a month ago with no problem. I know the seafoam may have a tendency to get the carbon deposits all over the o2 sensors, but i've never gotten the code after seafoam
Stalling issue - random
and some shock therapy but its fixed. 
Linear Mode
