Steering Dampener Replacement - Land Rovers Only

NJRover · 03-02-2005, 06:30 PM

I am going to be getting a new steering damper and alignment within the next few weeks. My 95' LWB still has the EAS - functioning fine. I was wondering if I should replace anything else ( shocks) while I get the damper installed? I still have the facotry shocks and was thinking of replacing them with Bilsteins. Didn't want to mess with the EAS until I have too, then will most likely convert to springs.

Serg · 03-02-2005, 08:11 PM

I have Bilsteins on my '95 LWB and they work great. If the shocks are shot, replace em.. if they are fine, leave em alone. It will be cheaper to do it when you do the EAS, otherwise you have to pay extra labor now and then again when you do the EAS conversion.

Serg

Kevin88RRC · 03-03-2005, 04:34 AM

If you you plan on doing any offroading, you might want to think about a relocating kit that moves it to the front like a defender. http://www.eastcoastrover.com/offroadequip.html has one and I'm sure there are others.

AdrianL · 03-03-2005, 05:35 AM

Why you are replacing the steering damper on your 95? What are the symptoms you get or do you visually see the shock leaking?
I have 95 LWB and I am thinking of replacing mine because it is loose over a bump and steers all over when driving.

Kevin88RRC · 03-03-2005, 06:22 AM

Adrian... you may want to check swivel preload first. The new dampener may just mask the problem. Check out this article http://www.landroverclub.net//Club/H...obble_cure.htm

NJRover · 03-03-2005, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AdrianL

Why you are replacing the steering damper on your 95? What are the symptoms you get or do you visually see the shock leaking?
I have 95 LWB and I am thinking of replacing mine because it is loose over a bump and steers all over when driving.

Adrian - the symptoms aren't visible. When I'm driving on the highway and hit a bump, the steering wheel vibrates for a few seconds. Only happens at higher speeds, lower speeds not noticeable. I figured it was the damper?

OkieRover · 03-03-2005, 02:23 PM

After I replaced my shocks that problem went away for me.

Irvin · 03-04-2005, 07:36 PM

After I replaced the damper(with a bilstein) the problem went away!

BrettinSanAntonio · 03-04-2005, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJRover

Adrian - the symptoms aren't visible. When I'm driving on the highway and hit a bump, the steering wheel vibrates for a few seconds. Only happens at higher speeds, lower speeds not noticeable. I figured it was the damper?

You might want to check your tie rod ends. I had the exact same problem and replaced all four tie rods. When I got them off, I found three were frozen and one had a great deal of "play". With new tie rods it drives sweeeeet!

Irvin · 03-04-2005, 08:15 PM

Brett in San Antonio is right, after the bilstein damper, I did an Atlantic British tie rod end kit and "right on dude"

AdrianL · 03-07-2005, 05:08 AM

well, my tie rod ends are practically new but the other hand, steering damper is rusted thru and shot.
I went to Atlantic British and price was 99.95. So I went to Rovers North and price was 85.00. I have ordered thru Rovers North.
Will see what happens after the replacement.
Is it really hard to replace the steering damper? Do I need alignment after that?

CoachDitka · 03-07-2005, 05:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AdrianL

well, my tie rod ends are practically new but the other hand, steering damper is rusted thru and shot.
I went to Atlantic British and price was 99.95. So I went to Rovers North and price was 85.00. I have ordered thru Rovers North.
Will see what happens after the replacement.
Is it really hard to replace the steering damper? Do I need alignment after that?

It is usually a good idea to get an alignment after working on any part of the suspension, but in the case of the damper, you don't need to bother. As far as replacing, it is about as easy a job as you can get.

-Coach

AdrianL · 03-07-2005, 06:07 AM

As soon as I get the damper, I will replace and report back!

CoachDitka · 03-07-2005, 01:28 PM

If anyone can find a stock damper cheaper than British Pacific ($63.00) let me know! I need one and am about to order from them unless I can find a better price.

-Coach

glenncof · 03-07-2005, 04:38 PM

Steering Stabilizer:
The OEM Range Rover steering stabilizer (damper) costs $92 (NRC6474). Bilstein part number B36-0245 can be obtained for about $65. Another option is the Rancho 5403, 5405, or 5550. I found the latter at ExpressAutoparts.com for $28.

============
This came from http://www.rangerovers.net/rrpartsv.htm

I ALWAYS check this site first.
============

Yea, I've had my share of wobby steering after hitting bump. Most recent for my 1991 with 174K miles was panhard rod ends. Tie rod end once. Once I had two different tires on Michelin (very old style & newer style) caused the problem.

Get under steering components (engine off) and have someone like my 8 yrs old son turn steering wheel back/forth. Look for shifting geometry (parts not moving right). Could be preload on swivel housing or worn steering box (although back lash is adjustable).

Another way is to check is put bottle jack under axel. Raise one wheel off ground at a time. Grab tire with both hands and try latteral push/pull. You'll feel how loose tie rod ends and other steering links may be. Problem is you can't see what is the issue. Then tire iron under wheel, lift up. There should be smooth movement of the tire, no sudden shifting upper or lower. Usually this checks ball joint but you probably have swivel housing (ajust preload).

03-02-2005, 06:30 PM	#1 (permalink)
NJRover Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 50 Gallery: 0	Steering Damper Replacement I am going to be getting a new steering damper and alignment within the next few weeks. My 95' LWB still has the EAS - functioning fine. I was wondering if I should replace anything else ( shocks) while I get the damper installed? I still have the facotry shocks and was thinking of replacing them with Bilsteins. Didn't want to mess with the EAS until I have too, then will most likely convert to springs. Last edited by NJRover : 03-02-2005 at 06:47 PM.

03-02-2005, 08:11 PM	#2 (permalink)
Serg LRO Founder Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Los Gatos, CA Posts: 2,005 Gallery: 0	I have Bilsteins on my '95 LWB and they work great. If the shocks are shot, replace em.. if they are fine, leave em alone. It will be cheaper to do it when you do the EAS, otherwise you have to pay extra labor now and then again when you do the EAS conversion. Serg __________________ Current Vehicles: 2003 BMW 540iT M Sport 2005 BMW R1200GS 2004 Element Skateboard (Indy trucks, Bones Swiss, etc...) Past LR's: 1995 Range Rover LWB Classic 1995 Range Rover LWB Classic 1997 Discovery XD 1995 Range Rover LWB Classic 1995 Range Rover LWB Classic 4.0

03-03-2005, 04:34 AM	#3 (permalink)
Kevin88RRC Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Portland, Maine Posts: 713 Gallery: 0	If you you plan on doing any offroading, you might want to think about a relocating kit that moves it to the front like a defender. http://www.eastcoastrover.com/offroadequip.html has one and I'm sure there are others. __________________ Kevin 88 RRC "Audrey"

03-03-2005, 05:35 AM	#4 (permalink)
AdrianL Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Crystal MN Posts: 162 Gallery: 0	NJRover - May I ask Why you are replacing the steering damper on your 95? What are the symptoms you get or do you visually see the shock leaking? I have 95 LWB and I am thinking of replacing mine because it is loose over a bump and steers all over when driving.

03-03-2005, 06:22 AM	#5 (permalink)
Kevin88RRC Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Portland, Maine Posts: 713 Gallery: 0	Adrian... you may want to check swivel preload first. The new dampener may just mask the problem. Check out this article http://www.landroverclub.net//Club/H...obble_cure.htm __________________ Kevin 88 RRC "Audrey"

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03-04-2005, 07:36 PM	#8 (permalink)
Irvin Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: UpState New York Posts: 35 Gallery: 0	After I replaced the damper(with a bilstein) the problem went away!

03-04-2005, 08:15 PM	#10 (permalink)
Irvin Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: UpState New York Posts: 35 Gallery: 0	Brett in San Antonio is right, after the bilstein damper, I did an Atlantic British tie rod end kit and "right on dude"

03-07-2005, 05:08 AM	#11 (permalink)
AdrianL Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Crystal MN Posts: 162 Gallery: 0	Bilstein Damper well, my tie rod ends are practically new but the other hand, steering damper is rusted thru and shot. I went to Atlantic British and price was 99.95. So I went to Rovers North and price was 85.00. I have ordered thru Rovers North. Will see what happens after the replacement. Is it really hard to replace the steering damper? Do I need alignment after that?

03-07-2005, 06:07 AM	#13 (permalink)
AdrianL Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Crystal MN Posts: 162 Gallery: 0	Thanks Coach! As soon as I get the damper, I will replace and report back!

03-07-2005, 01:28 PM	#14 (permalink)
CoachDitka Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Posts: 79 Gallery: 0	If anyone can find a stock damper cheaper than British Pacific ($63.00) let me know! I need one and am about to order from them unless I can find a better price. -Coach

03-07-2005, 04:38 PM	#15 (permalink)
glenncof Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Posts: 95 Gallery: 0	Steering Stabilizer: The OEM Range Rover steering stabilizer (damper) costs $92 (NRC6474). Bilstein part number B36-0245 can be obtained for about $65. Another option is the Rancho 5403, 5405, or 5550. I found the latter at ExpressAutoparts.com for $28. ============ This came from http://www.rangerovers.net/rrpartsv.htm I ALWAYS check this site first. ============ Yea, I've had my share of wobby steering after hitting bump. Most recent for my 1991 with 174K miles was panhard rod ends. Tie rod end once. Once I had two different tires on Michelin (very old style & newer style) caused the problem. Get under steering components (engine off) and have someone like my 8 yrs old son turn steering wheel back/forth. Look for shifting geometry (parts not moving right). Could be preload on swivel housing or worn steering box (although back lash is adjustable). Another way is to check is put bottle jack under axel. Raise one wheel off ground at a time. Grab tire with both hands and try latteral push/pull. You'll feel how loose tie rod ends and other steering links may be. Problem is you can't see what is the issue. Then tire iron under wheel, lift up. There should be smooth movement of the tire, no sudden shifting upper or lower. Usually this checks ball joint but you probably have swivel housing (ajust preload).

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