Swivel housing fill plug removal...

[brider]

Decided to start a new thread since now I understand the req'mnt and procedure for lubing the swivel housings.

Cranked the right side wheel hard over, removed the fill plug, looked in with a mirror, and saw the clearance now past the CV joint. Stuck the fill tube in, and squeezed the entire 1-shot tube of lube in. Now I feel better!

Cranked the left side wheel hard over, and rounded the (2) corners of the square fill plug head where I could get the 1/2" wrench on. Tried vice-grips clamped to the "flats", still no-go. Now I feel worse!

I wire-brushed the periphery of the plug and soaked it with penetrant overnight, and again this morning, but now I'm scared to death to drive it because I suspect it's dry as a bone in there.

If I apply HEAT via a propane torch, would I heat the HOUSING alone, or the housing and plug also? There are brake lines RIGHT ABOVE the fill plug. Any way to tell how MUCH heat to apply?

[Racer X]

Hit the fill plug straight on with a metal hammer a few times first, then try to remove it.

Failing that, weld a nut to it and use a long handle ratchet and socket to remove.

[pazzo rover]

Another option if you rounded the fill bolt is one of these kits Craftsman 10 pc. Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set, Low Profile Bolt-Out - Tools - Hand Tools - Tap & Dies & Sets
Well worth the money.

The penetrating oil should be enough to get the bolt loose, but no worries if you need to use the torch. Just aim the tip at the treads/swivel housing from the top/side for about 3 - 5 mins. Pic sucks but you can get the idea

[brider]

Good idea(s), I'll try the hammer before I try the heat (no welder yet).

[roverandom]

Keep at it with a decent penetrating oil.

If you need to heat it aim the torch at the housing.

It helps to alternate loosening AND tightening until you get it free.

I would be reluctant to hit it with a hammer as you could miss and clobber a brake line or it could damage the threads, but it is a fairly robust item.

[antichrist]

I've never seen one not come out when the right tool is used. 1/2" 8pt socket.

[90 red rover]

"I've never seen one not come out when the right tool is used. 1/2" 8pt socket. "
i went to sears to buy just this socket when mine seemed stuck. put a nice big 1/2" breaker on it and both came off no problem. you could replace them with allen head pipe plugs when you get them out and use a socket head allen next time... but that doesnt help you now. the heat should help and like already stated heat at the plug to help avoid general heating of the brake lines and such.

[antichrist]

I don't see any point in replacing them. The square plugs are fine when you use an 8pt socket.
Just don't over tighten when reinstalling. If you service on schedule you shouldn't have issues removing it in the future.

[brider]

I knew it was a 1/2" across the flats, but I coulda SWORE I tried a socket, but it wouldn't fit because it was square, not 6-pt. and the 1/2-in open-end wrench I used on the right side mysteriously didn't fit the left side, even though the square on the right was undamaged. So I used a 13 mm that WOULD fit (vs the 12.4 mm of the 1/2 in), and it promptly rounded off 2 of the flats.

BIG lesson learned, I know now that if I'd used a proper-fitting socket that torqued on all 4 points, i'd have a better chance.

So I took it to the only shop I trust, and they charged me $37 to pull the plug and fill it with my 1-shot tube of lube.

Thanks for all the help, guys.

[antichrist]

Yes, using the wrong tool can be expensive.
8pt 1/2' socket is under $10