Top End Rebuild

[Kevin88RRC]

Going to start rebuilding the top end of my 3.5. I have new cam, lifters, rods, and timing chain coming along with all the needed gaskets. I'm going with composite gaskets on the heads and intake. And the rubber gaskets on the valve covers.
So my first batch of questions (I'm sure I'll have a lot more to come), what other supplies do I need? I know I need Vaseline for the oil pump, Loctite for some bolts, and antiseize for others, but what other odds and ends will I forget?!?
Do I need new valve cover screws with the rubber gasket?
What is good way to clean up the inside of the engine and parts that are going back on?

And a Big Thanks to Okie and GregM for the encouragement in my previous post.

[sven]

You'll need new head bolts (for the composite gasket). You should also upgrade your intake manifold bolts and valve cover bolts. These are availible from RN, AB, etc.

[Disco Mike]

Buy lots of carb spray to do your cleaning of parts and surfaces. I would also suggest you do a really good engine flush, prior to tearing the engine down, to help get rid of alot of old engine build up.
Mike

[Kevin88RRC]

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

Buy lots of carb spray to do your cleaning of parts and surfaces. I would also suggest you do a really good engine flush, prior to tearing the engine down, to help get rid of alot of old engine build up.
Mike

Would Seafoam be a good choice? Or can recommend something better that I can pick up locally?

[Kevin88RRC]

Originally Posted by sven

You'll need new head bolts (for the composite gasket). You should also upgrade your intake manifold bolts and valve cover bolts. These are availible from RN, AB, etc.

I'll have the new head bolts. Do you know the size of the intake manifold bolts? Can't seem to find it.

[daway]

good luck w/ the project!! show some pic's when u get it going!

[Kevin88RRC]

Thanks Daway!
Going to open her up this weekend and clean her up.
I will be taking a lot of pics to help with reassembley.

[daway]

Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC

Thanks Daway!
Going to open her up this weekend and clean her up.
I will be taking a lot of pics to help with reassembley.

it alway sucks when u have some extra parts (when finished w/ a project)!

[Disco Mike]

Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC

Would Seafoam be a good choice? Or can recommend something better that I can pick up locally?

I believe any old carb type spray would be just fine.
Mike

[Kevin88RRC]

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

I believe any old carb type spray would be just fine.
Mike

DOH!!!!.... sorry I ment to ask about the engine flush. Any recommendation?

[sven]

Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC

I'll have the new head bolts. Do you know the size of the intake manifold bolts? Can't seem to find it.

Not sure about the size. I remember 2 of them were longer than the rest. LR claims you're supposed to replace these when using the new style intake gasket (composite).

[Disco Mike]

Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC

DOH!!!!.... sorry I ment to ask about the engine flush. Any recommendation?

Nearly any of the name brand flushes are OK, GUNK is one that comes to mind. I have youes 2 or 3 different engine flushes with pretty much the same results.
The HD way to go is to drain out you engine oil and fill the crank case with ATF, let idle for 20 minutes or so and drain. No harm to the engine and boy does it clean.
Mike

[onslow]

Originally Posted by sven

You'll need new head bolts (for the composite gasket). You should also upgrade your intake manifold bolts and valve cover bolts. These are availible from RN, AB, etc.

You dont need new bolts for composite gaskets or any gaskets for that matter,what you will have to be aware of is that the composite head gaskets are much thicker than the OE steel ones there fore you will have to plane the heads a little more to compensate for the extra thickness as it affects the compression ratio by quite a margin,ive learnt this from experience I had to find out the hard and expensive way,

I also dont recommend the vaseline in the oil pump either it does work but does take too long to flow oil and that breif period of starvation can do damage rapidly,a better technique is to make a tool for use with a power drill simply a 1/2 inch length of bar stock with a slot cut in one end to accept the oil pump drive shaft with the distributor removed slot the tool over the oil pump drive and spin it with the drill till oil fills the pump mind your wrists it can jolt when you start getting pressure oh and if you put a bit of hose pipe over the end of the tool it keeps the pump drive and tool inline.
Cheers ONz

[Kevin88RRC]

Well I got her opened part of the way. There's soooooo much stuff you have to take off just to get at the engine! Did my best to clean her both inside and out, but she is so filthy. Did an engine flush with ATF and washed her down with Simple Green. Probably could have used something stronger on the outside, but I'll just spend some more time cleaning the parts while they are off.

After about 10 hours counting cleaning,draining, lots of note taking & labeling, got all the way to the intake manifold and valve covers off. I have a lot of cleaning to do.

Tomorrow, I hope to have the rest off which includes the heads, water pump, front cover and cam. Oh, and drop the sump pan. And start on cleaning everything. I think I need to go out and buy a case of carb cleaner!
I also got all my parts in today. If all goes well, I'll start putting her back together on Friday and Saturday.

Here's a few pics of the mess! And one of my work space which includes a shade tree!

[choffa@comcast.net]

Take a browse through RPI's site. Plenty of good information on the Rover engine:

http://www.rpiv8.com/

For cleaning, especially the tough varnish & hardened sludge, get some paint stripper with methylene chloride (Home Depot). Works great, but use outside & with rubber gloves. Oven cleaner is another good & cheap cleaner for really tough stuff, but be careful on the aluminum, leave it too long & it will etch the surface.