Upper tailgate not staying latched.....

[HaroldC]

I keep hearing this rattle in the rear and couldn't find the culprit until I realized it was that the upper tailgate wasn't latched on the left side. Now, my upper tailgate is not is great shape (should have bought Paul Grant's ) but it does unlatch and latch. I have pressed the particular side down to latch it, but it comes unlatched after a few miles and the rattle comes back.

Does anyone know of a way to keep the latch latched? Do I need to adjust the tab on the body? I did a search and couldn't find anything. Any help would be appreciated. TIA!

[OkieRover]

Try adjusting the tabs like you mentioned.

[John C]

Over time the bottom frame part of the tailgate starts to warp (pressure applied to handle). When closing the upper tailgate try placing one hand on each bottom corner of the frame/glass.

Good luck.

[HaroldC]

Thanks for the advice, I'll try it today. Any other hints?

[John C]

As Okie mentioned, try adjusting the tabs first.... then, when closing the latch don't push down on the handle...

You might want to check the locking mechanism inside the frame, it might need some lubrication.

I have an extra upper tailgate (rusted) but the locking mechanism might be in good shape. Let me know if you need it.

[daway]

common issue w/ all rrc at some point.
try adjusting the strickers first.
try not to slam it hard, not good for the tailgate.
like john stated, put pressure on the bottom corner w/ 1 hand.
linkage inside sometimes needs an adjustment.
how r your struts?
my rrc tailgate had the same issue and my struts did not hold up the gate. after i did an adjustment and got new struts and helped a ton. new struts r good so it doesnt close down to fast and etc..
sometime i dont close it good and i will have the tailgate open up slowly but dont get the rattle do to the new struts. only way i notice the tailgate is open from the "warning light" (dome light) and alittle more air flow...lol

[roverandom]

You may have to just face the fact that upper tail gate is not going to get any better and buy a new one if it is rusted so bad that it will not latch. You can make the repairs as already posted but these are only stop gap fixes. The previous owner of my RRC left the problem go so long that the handle fell off and was lost. So when I got the truck I had to spring for a new handle and a tailgate frame.
Just about every aftermarket Land Rover parts dealer has them in stock, you can even get them with new glass.
Hope this helps.

[daway]

Originally Posted by roverandom

You may have to just face the fact that upper tail gate is not going to get any better and buy a new one if it is rusted so bad that it will not latch. You can make the repairs as already posted but these are only stop gap fixes. The previous owner of my RRC left the problem go so long that the handle fell off and was lost. So when I got the truck I had to spring for a new handle and a tailgate frame.
Just about every aftermarket Land Rover parts dealer has them in stock, you can even get them with new glass.
Hope this helps.

i did not read that the tailgate (upper) was rusted? i would just try to adjust it 1st if your tail gate is not rusted out. my dads 91 and my 93 has had issues w/ the tailgate needing an adjustment. they make alum tailgates that i have heard to work good. next time i will get an alum one. i have a nice upper tailgate from my dads 91 that i will sell. no brake light.

[roverandom]

Originally Posted by daway

i did not read that the tailgate (upper) was rusted?

I was reading between the lines (instead of reading the lines). If your tail gate is not rusted and just has a missalignment issue then you don't need to change it.
I have the aluminium tail gate, got it a few months ago. Not installed it yet so I can't say if it is good or bad yet. when i do get it installed I will let you know.

[HaroldC]

My tailgate is rusted, but not near the latches, just along the bottom seal. I tried to move the striker but it barely moved in the direction I needed. I''ll try it again but with a little 'helping hand' (pry bar).

I am looking at the alum upper tailgate. It's so tempting but so expensive. I guess I'll see how long the current one lasts for and then I'll move to the alum one after.

[GDEclassic]

I think i took the more extreme "just ghetto rig it" approach. I refuse to buy a new frame...Mine is held together by a conglomeration of nuts and bolts, gorilla glue(yes gorilla glue...try it) silicone, and black spray paint. Its pretty damn sturdy if you ask me. Functional w/the "home depot special" locks. Just ignore the dust clinging to the silicone sealing i did. You dont need central locking on the back anyway. Maybe just buy the aluminum one if your concerned about looks Theres way better stuff to spend your dough on than a aluminum frame.
But hey atleast i didnt build a wood bumper or use wood to fix the tailgate. right?
Its the poor mans fix. Gotta give me credit fighting a losing battle.

[series1rangie]

Originally Posted by GDEclassic

I think i took the more extreme "just ghetto rig it" approach. ... You dont need central locking on the back anyway. Maybe just buy the aluminum one if your concerned about looks Theres way better stuff to spend your dough on than a aluminum frame.
But hey atleast i didnt build a wood bumper or use wood to fix the tailgate. right?
Its the poor mans fix. Gotta give me credit fighting a losing battle.

I give you credit, all I do is take the bungie from the bumper, up through the handle and back to the bumper. Make sure it is a tight stretch, otherwise your tailgate bumps open the length of the bungie

[Paul Grant]

If you remove the inner covers along the bottom of the window you will see an adjustable rod that you can play with to help the tailgate close better.

[repete]

just like paul said, you should need an 8mm wrench & a #2 phil. that will adjust the throw of the claw . I just did mine last week, what a difference!

[HaroldC]

Paul and Repete - I'll try that and let you know how it works out.
Thanks!