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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 11
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The weakest link of the BW Transfer Case has proven itself just that. Anybody bought one of these recently/reasonably? I missed a new one earlier on Ebay at a great price from a member here by seconds.
computer froze. Anyway.....I just thought I would ask if anybody knew a good source besides the stealer....er... I mean dealer. Atlantic British and British Pacific are about the same $ wise. Just wondering if there are other sources. Thanks.Fish |
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#2 (permalink) |
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WWTSD? (what would Tony Soprano do?)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 116
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Have you considered doing an LT230 swap? Not too difficult, you get the benefit of a locking center diff, which besides the obvious traction advantage, if you bust an axle, ujoint, etc, you can still drive home on the front or rear......
Steve
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2001 D2 -The Stevo-II 1992 RRC-The Stevo-I
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Brighton, CO
Posts: 683
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mine has also failed, at least it failed open though so I can get around town in the meantime.
I plan to replace mine with the manually locking one from a disco1
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current rides: 2004 Land Rover Discovery II SE7 (still stock) 1992 Range Rover Classic (work in Progress) 2003 Audi allroad (more than a little modified) 1999 BMW R1100S 2001 BMW 330i (wife needed something to drive) |
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#6 (permalink) |
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WWTSD? (what would Tony Soprano do?)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 116
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Your cheapest route might be finding a used B/W, but I agree with sven, I often see LT230's here and there for ~$400 with the passengers side mount. You would just need a front driveshaft, but you could do without it for a while with the LT230....
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2001 D2 -The Stevo-II 1992 RRC-The Stevo-I
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 11
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I didn't realize that. The VC and labor is probably going to run 1200. I haven't checked on a drive shaft but I think I might ought to do a little homework? I don't mind doing what I can but when it comes to clunky heavy trans and tc I just don't have the set up and have to visit the independant. Fortunately they offer good service and fair rates as rates go. The rates are not the problem....it's that damn book usually.
Anybody have any idea what ~ $ I'd be up against on a conversion? I know the VC job will run ~1200 and at least 900 of that will be the part. Thanks |
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#8 (permalink) |
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WWTSD? (what would Tony Soprano do?)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 116
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From what I've heard, the issues with the LT230 swap is more in the details surrounding the linkage and ancillary stuff. For the most part, it just bolts up, BUT - if you get an LT230, get one from a later model D1 (don't get one from a D2, they don't have the speedo connection I think) - on the D1 they changed the input gear on the LT230 somewhere in 96-97? to improve the oiling. What that means is you would need to change the output shaft on the tranny in your classic - no big deal, super easy to swap while the T/C is out, takes like 3 minutes to do, BUT you would need to get the new output shaft from the dealer - that could run >$150 (just guessing). But you might get lucky and find a used one or get the one from the vehicle the LT230 came out of. If its an earlier LT230, thats ok, they bolt right up.
The things you will want to get from the donar vehicle: LT230 (duh!), linkage, passenger side mount on LT230, parking brake assembly, and front driveshaft if possible. If you get all that, you are golden. The only mod you might have to make is on some LT230's the bolt pattern on the rear output only lines up with 3 bolts on the driveshaft flange, the 4 bolt hole won't line up, you would need someone to drill and tap that hole. Like I mentioned before, I passed up and offer on all the above stuff for ~$700 - I had more pressing issues on my truck, now I'm kicking myself for not pulling the trigger. The T/C is heavy, but a cheap tranny jack from harbor freight would do the trick. This is something you can definately do in a garage, especially if you can get the truck up on ramps in the garage. I think more people have issues with the linkage/interlock connections/etc than the actual mechanical bits... but then again, I've never done this. I have done it on a jeep and its not too bad, just get a friend or two to help. If you just had your shop drill and tap the rear output to match the driveshaft flange, and then pull the B/W and put in the LT230 and swap the front driveshaft, shouldn't be too bad, you could then pull the center console and do the linkage on your own time.... anybody that has done this, please chime in if I'm way off on something.
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2001 D2 -The Stevo-II 1992 RRC-The Stevo-I
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Newnan, GA
Posts: 114
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I picked up a used VC for $150 delivered. I haven't had a chance to get it in yet (doing the head gaskets) but it looks like all I have to do is pull the front shaft and pull the houseing around the VC and put the new one on. Just a thought, especially if $$$ is an issue. I got mine from Rezdiver.
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Bill 93 LWB Westminster 155+k miles ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate! O Crap! decals - $3.00 to your door. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 307
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Dude email/PM Paul Grant as he probably has one. It is SIMPLE to put it and you can do it right in the vehicle. I bought mine used for 100 bucks 12 bucks worth of right stuff and a couple hours of work. No problem. Gordo.
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Gordo www.floridalandroverclub.com 00 P38 4.6 blinging 92 stocker RRC 73 hybrid wheeler |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Newnan, GA
Posts: 114
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IIRC Paul doesn't separate them but I think Iamthedrillbit does. What is the right stuff? Your not talking about the household sealing foam are you?
__________________
Bill 93 LWB Westminster 155+k miles ArmyRover- "it's actually more of self inflicted torture chamber with doors and tires"- with this, I can relate! O Crap! decals - $3.00 to your door. |
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