last week i was driving along just fine, all of a sudden my engine is dead and i coast to a stop along the side of the freeway, i get it towed home and start doing some basic checks, i discovered that the top ECU under the passenger seat had become disconnected, so i connected it and it started up, problem solved right?
on monday i was driving along and it died again, i pulled over to the side of the road, tried starting it and it started right away, then on tuesday i was driving and it died again, I did the same thing i did the other day and it started up i drove it all of 200 ft when it died again then wouldn't start, I spent all yesturday checking all sorts of things, I discovered that the rotor had an earth fault, i replaced it and it started! problem solved right???? it died about 5 minutes later and it would start and die almost immediatly, then sometimes no start and every onceand awhile it would start then die agian,, then an hour later it started up and has been running fine for about 15 minutes now, I can't understand it!
the PO had replaced the cap, rotor, and plug wires with blue ones, i'm unsure of the brand but they are the newest looking thing in the engine compartment...
it could be a cooling sensor problem. Id check into the cooling system. Or take a look at your EFI computer, under the left seat, you may need a new one.
Maybe the ECU connector is bouncing/disconnecting. I'd take another look at the clip to make sure it's secure, nothing is broken. Check your grounds for corrosion too.
i am doing the ignition amplifier replacement with a chevy one, now i have good spark blue, before it was weak and yellow, but the car wont start up, i think my rotor might be bad, when i do the ignition test in rave, it says to hold the coil contact above the rotor and waatch for sparking, i see spark going from the coil wire to the rotor then jumping to the distributor case, does should the rotor itself provide the ground? could the rotor have an earth fault?
Nope, not a good thing. spark goes to each termial. The spark plugs are ground. Wipe your rotor and inside of cap with ammonia, it will remove the carbon tracks.
i get good spark at the pulgs as well, just something for one reason or another it wont start, I replaced the stock amp module with a napa module made for an S10 i believe, it definantly helped the spark get stronger, however it seems like the timing is off, it seems to catch every once and awhile but it never gets up and running on its own power. are there any adjustment that can be made?, I think the spark might be jumping to one of the bolts that holds the flash guard on, i might try putting some dielectric grease over the bolts and replacing the rotor with one less rusty inside....
I cleaned the cap with contact cleaner i might try the amonia thing but i don't think thats the issue
yeah i can smell fuel coming out the exuast when i crank it over, as well as getting some fuel when i pulled the hose off the return line on the fuel rail, i wish they had schraider valves on 93s that would be so easy! I'm sure it has to be the rotor, i had a new one which broke right away, but after i did the module swap it ran for a couple minutes but it was rough, i had some plug wires in the wrong order i think, so i redid it all but i also managed to break my new rotor, i put the old one in and it hasn't started since, it has to be the rotor thats the X factor in all this....
Do you have a manual or the RAVE CD? Clockwise distributor rotation firing order is; 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, counter-clockwise distributor firing order is; 1-2-7-5-6-3-4-8. Facing the engine and from front to back cylinders; 1, 3, 5, 7 on your right; 2, 4, 6, 8 on your left.
Any updates??? Let's get this thing running before you part it out & get more in debt with another Rover.
Most people say you have to a Genuine Lucas rotor and the other rotors may work for a short time then crap out. Did you f*ck up the dissy springs when pulling the old rotor?
Have you double checked the firing order? If you haven't, try cleaning the plugs incase they have become fouled from all the starting attempts.
One more thing to check is your coolant temp sensor (the one to the ECU). Could be on its way out providing a bad signal. This will produce a bad fuel/air mix making it hard to start.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Weird issues even for a RR classic
Linear Mode
