What should I replace with New Engine Install

[SGStriglos]

Greetings All,
Have driven RRC's since 89 and am currently awaiting delivery of a stage 3 RPI 4.6 power plant that is being assembled for my (I hope) last RRC a - 95 SWB. New long block will ship complete with new ecu chip, complete air intake system, oil pump, ignition system, injectors, water pump, thermostat, Redman header, ect. The only parts connected to the engine I am retaining are brackets, flywheel, pulleys, alternator, starter, and ac compressor.

My question is what parts should be replaced when I have engine removed? Thus far we have decided to buy new radiator, and motor mounts.

What items might I have missed?

Thank you for your thoughts.

[TerryS]

If I recall correctly, RPI quotes their stage 3 4.6 at nearly 100 HP more than your tired old 3.9, so my concern would be, is your transmission up to snuff, and more importantly, your torque converter.
I'd probably replace the fan clutch, just because the old one is probably weak, if locking up at all (unless it's been replaced recently). You're going to generating alot more heat (more HP= more BTUs). Another PITA component to change in situ is the PS pump. If there is no evidence the old one leaked, let it go. Did you go with their dual throttle body plenum?

[ArmyRover]

I would check your tranny cooler and oil cooler lines as well, new hoses should go without saying but....

[SGStriglos]

Terry, Thank you I hadn't thought of the fan clutch and recently did the PS Pump. Chris f/RPI said not to worry about the transmission.
Is the torque converter a trouble area?

I don't think I went with a dual throttle body plenum; I did go for the carbon fiber flared flutes and carbon plenum body though.

ArmyRover, Thanks-Yes I'm on the cooler lines and hoses.

[TerryS]

Originally Posted by SGStriglos

Is the torque converter a trouble area?

They are the typical Borg Warner unit, and they aren't very troublesome in stock Landies, but that's bearing in mind that stock Landies aren't powerhouses. Give it the 'nose' test. Take a whiff of new ATF, then sniff the atf that drains from the torque converter when you pull the old engine. If it smells burned, have a transmission shop load test it if they can. Not all shops can do it. A new one is in the mid $300 range, so weigh that with having to pull the engine to change one. They remanufacture them, so you won't have it kicking around in the corner of your garage.

[Populus]

change for fresh engine mounts, get a new starter, have the alt looked at or redo the diode pack.
I would certainly look at those fuel lines and the brake lines while your at it.

Now on the cooling side, if the rad is an original, get a new one!

Check out the coil towers and take a general look around the engine bay, a quick spray can liven up the compartment..

[SGStriglos]

Well, Just got word the engine is shipping in the morning...they say 7-10 days transit.

Items bought...
motor mounts
fan
fan clutch
radiator

Any other thoughts?

[Populus]

Do you have a list of what is covered in their "long" block ??

For their stage 3 are you getting the ecu and wire loom? All sensors included ??

Will your fuel pump be up to the task ?

If you can before the engine goes in, wrap those exhausts, there's special wrapping you can get at summit or anywhere else.

What ignition system comes with the engine ??

[carlosz]

drive belt(s), possible belt idler(s) and or tensioner, thermostat, intake filter, oil and gas as well... exhaust gaskets.. what was the condition of your 02 sensors, any codes before disassembly... condition of filter to plenum hose... fire trap/pcv system hoses are famous for blocking completely.
any rotted or damaged hoses.
it seems like a very long nickel and dime list but once you have compleeted that neat clean install you dont want gremlins and surprises, specially the leak oily types..

[SGStriglos]

Again, Thank you for your thoughts

Below is the list of items comming with engine
Cos-Cast Engine 4.6
Sump & timing cover
rocker covers
water pump
Stage 3 heads and cam
Tornado Chip
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
New Distributor
Magnecore wires
A&R high power ignition amp also with coil etc
Full Fuel injection hardware upgrade suitable for stage 3 engine
Throttle body carbon intake
Headers
8 New upgraded Fuel Injectors
Oil Pump

Then these are the new parts sourced in the states.
motor mounts
fan
fan clutch
radiator

Sensors including co2 are orginal w/145k miles..should they be replaced?

[carlosz]

with the ecu upgrade they may begin to act a little lazy..

[SGStriglos]

Originally Posted by carlosz

with the ecu upgrade they may begin to act a little lazy..

Will do...Thanks

[Populus]

I would replace o2's and the starter, more compression harder to start, Battery upgrade, with new cables and a very good ground strap for engine block.

make sure you still have the heat sheild on for the starter. use a heat sheild for the wire that comes from your ignition switch and get a good cable from battery to starter. make sure your ground wire from battery to chassis is very good.

And I hope you will post plenty of pics of that new beast

I certainly would look at the brakes, and look at the rotors, certainly would upgrade, and while there do the bearings and seals.. no use having all that power and nothing to stop it.

Brake lines check them and if pitted change them, same goes to the fuel lines.

Power steerring hoses, replace with top quality, same goes fro tranny cooler hoses.

Then follow the break in procedure, and change your oil at every 500 miles for the first 2k or to whatever specifications that RPI gives you, but do change the oil and do be alarmed if you see some metal particles.. Use a cam addative in the oil! And vary your rpms..