windsheld fluid reservoir..................

[daway]

i wanted to know if anyone has taken the windsheild fluid reservoir out of there rrc? i can not let fluid to pump out pass the non-return valve (after the rear pump) and bought a new rear pump ($16.00 at BP!!) and want to replace the old one and clean the reservoir. i see that there is a bolt in the front of the reservoir that is screwed to the body, is there another one! did anyone run to any problems while taking out the reservoir? i thought that it might only b clogged but if i am going to take the whole reservoir out anyways just replace it w/ a 16.00 part (my luck i would take it out to clean and then it needs a new pump and have to wait a wk). also i did not hear anything from the rear pump when i push the button. thanks aaron

[Paul Grant]

There's a nut and bolt in the back just like the one in the front. I absolutely hate removing the reservoir. I've dismantled a lot of Range Rovers but more often than not they go to the junkyard with the reservoir still intact. Good luck.

[daway]

Originally Posted by Paul Grant

There's a nut and bolt in the back just like the one in the front. I absolutely hate removing the reservoir. I've dismantled a lot of Range Rovers but more often than not they go to the junkyard with the reservoir still intact. Good luck.

thanks for the info. i read that someone else said the samething about the reservoir! can i just pump out the fluid (transfer fluid pump) and clean/ change the pump w/out taking out the reservoir. i dont think so but....?

[heiff]

I imagine the means of fastening the reservoir changed over the years - on later models (possibly with the introduction of the headlamp washers), the reservoir is fastened from the bottom (in the fender well) with three bolts and star washers (one at the front, two at the back). The nuts are pressed into the plastic body of the reservoir on the top side.

I just had mine out - removed the bolts from the bottom, and lifted out the reservoir.

Regarding the rear pump: clean up the electrical connections at the pumps. My rear pump didn't work because of all the corrosion. The connectors aren't weatherproofed in any way. I recommend generous amounts of silicone dielectric grease...

[choffa@comcast.net]

The nuts pressed into the plastic reservoir can spin out very easily. You can look down the back side of the reservoir & see the nuts. If they spin you can put a socket on & hold them. If the bolts are rusted solid, just cut the heads off from below.

[daway]

fixed the rear window washer pump problem!! on sat my dad and i took the reservoir out and found out the reason why no fluid was going out. the hardest part was getting one of the rear bolts off. the nut that is pressed into the plastic was rusted and striped from the plastic. had to cut out the bolt (had to be the one in the corner). cleaned out the reservoir and add dielectric grease and added the new pump (the orig pump was shot). we chose to use stainless steel tuggle bolts, 2 one in front and one in back (tuggle nuts on the engine side) which made it real easy to bolt it back to together fast and if another pump goes it will come out fast. thanks u all for your tips. i got a rear window wash pump that also works for the front pump for only $16.75 (britspart, aftermarket part) at British Pacfic. i i did price check'n and BA and RN had them for $25 plus (gen). there all good places and i get parts from all the above and then some.