Yet another "Won't Start" sob story - Land Rovers Only

Belugasaurus · 02-27-2007, 06:04 PM

I submit this riddle for the pleasure and amusement of the gearheads at large:

No, really, the Mrs.' rover ('90 County) is down and I am clueless.

From the top. Rover died shortly after being driven thru puddle on city street. (may or may not be related to problem)

Rover cranks healthily but WILL NOT catch.

NONE of the dash lights or guages work, neither does A/C fan etc. (All was fine previously). Interior lights and all other electrics seem to be fine.

Towed it home w/pickup, let it air dry overnite, checked fuses (all OK). Still a non-starter.

Disco · 02-27-2007, 10:02 PM

It sounds like moisture has got onto the ECU as a result of the "puddle splash". For some strange reason, Land Rover decided to place the ECU in the engine bay on the earlier US models. Try giving it a blow with some compressed air followed by a coating of WD40 or similar spray. If this doesn't work you may have to pull it apart to get into the internals. I've never been in there myself but I'm sure others on this forum can advise further.

Paul Grant · 02-28-2007, 04:47 AM

"For some strange reason, Land Rover decided to place the ECU in the engine bay on the earlier US models."

I have a feeling you're thinking of the Discovery.

The ECU for all except the 1995 Range Rover Classic will be found under the right or passenger seat. In 1995 the ECU was moved to the outside wall of the right or passenger interior footwell. It's highly unlikely that the puddle splash caused a problem with the ECU.

Check the usual things first. Are you getting a spark at the pllugs and are you getting fuel at the injectors?

TerryS · 02-28-2007, 05:57 AM

If you have no power to guages and idiot lights when you turn the key on, you likely also don't have any ign. power to the coil, ECU (hence fuel pump too)
Paul can confirm, but I believe the '90 model year also has a batch (9?) fusable links, which come off the battery terminal. If you look at the + post of the battery, you will see that there are 2 large conductors. One goes to the starter solinoid, the other to a meshed sleeve that has the fusable links.
Cut back the sleeve, and see that there isn't a whole lot of white powder, an indication of copper corrosion. This is the source of alot of electrical failures.

norville · 02-28-2007, 09:44 AM

Did you check the connection going to the coil? I had a simular issue, with the top right hand wire coming from the coil. It was corroded so I did What you'd normally do and wiggled it. Then- she no start. With the key on I could jiggle the wire and hear a switch clicking on/off. then it fired right up.

I do not know if it affected my lights or fan switch. I was in panic mode. I happened once more before I put on a new spade terminal.

Don't panic this one seems simple. step back and think about it.

bob

Belugasaurus · 02-28-2007, 10:16 AM

Thanks, Gents

I have some poking around to do this evenin' and I'll let y'all know what comes of it.

Belugasaurus · 03-03-2007, 09:10 AM

OK,
Ive un-assed the wiring harness, found several bonded wires and only one joint that looked "iffy", but Ive seen worse that worked better.

Did find some moisture in the passenger side leg of the harness but no oxides, just some wire pulling soap residue (Yellow77 likely).

Im showing a 0.01 voltage drop from the battery with the ignition off which I'm discounting as meaningless until someone tells me different.

Have nothing coming OUT of the coil (not enuff to make a spark anyway and I'm not interested in throwing away a multi-meter). Nothing from the leads on the top of the coil, and 0.15sumthin from the leads on the bottom of the coil.

Back under the hood..will write soon

OkieRover · 03-03-2007, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Belugasaurus

Im showing a 0.01 voltage drop from the battery with the ignition off which I'm discounting as meaningless until someone tells me different.

Clock. No biggy.
Are you sure your coil is good?

Has the amplifier relocation been done?

Belugasaurus · 03-04-2007, 10:27 AM

Dunno about the coil, looks like it could be original eq. so it will be getting replaced in due course. Still looking for common cause of failure (not starting+ dead dash).

btw. Looks like single large lead from positive side of battery goes straight to starter (mesh shielded near exhaust mani), another lead goes from starter to insulated mount on firewall, from there to alternator, back from alternator into wiring harness.

Belugasaurus · 03-04-2007, 11:43 AM

OK Gents,

Ive looked thru the entire Wiring harness from the radiator to the firewall and nothing seems obviously amiss.

Moving into the cab I found a tiny piece of brass on the drivers side floormat and it looks like nothing so much as it does a lock pin: 1/16 X 3/16 (approx) cylinder, semi-boattail finish on one end, hemispherical on the other.

Whatr the odds I'm looking at an ignition switch issue?

skucera · 03-04-2007, 01:42 PM

Now that you mention it, these are exactly the symptoms that got me to replace the ignition switch (behind the ignition key lock) in my MG Midget about 20 years ago. The diagnosis was simple... I compared the wiring diagram for the switch, then did continuity tests with my test light across the appropriate pairs of wires, and found that the ignition circuit wasn't being connected... ever. (That was an expensive switch too, back then. I was a poor grad student working his way through college, and it took me a month of scrimping and saving to come up with the $60 to pay for that switch.)

Scott

OkieRover · 03-05-2007, 06:34 AM

I had the back of my ignition switch come off once.
Could you be that lucky?
Let us know.

Elemental · 03-05-2007, 09:51 AM

Take your testlight/Meter......

One side of the coil should show battery volts(bright light)....

The other terminal should show less volts and pulsed (dimmer light/flashing)

If you have that, and no spark from the coil, the coil is junk.

If you do not have the pulse, take a look at your Moduale...

If you do not have the bright 12 volts on the coil, follow the wiring in your service manual.

You have a repair manual, right?

Belugasaurus · 03-06-2007, 04:40 PM

Repair Manual????

LOLOL
For me, a repair manual is baaaaad Voodoo. Every vehicle I've ever purchased one for has died a horrible death.

79 Ford 1 ton 4wd....stolen

85 Jeep CJ....Rolled, sheared both axles

90 Isuzu Trooper......blown motor

Ive changed the timing belt on my daughters Aspire using tools I forged myself and THAT thing will NOT DIE!!!!!

Currently my 20 year old Ford Chuck gets worked on from memory and doesnt even leak oil....(now, having said that....I wont make it to work tomorrow..)
annnnnnyhow...
I finally pulled the owners manual out in hopes of finding something useful annnnd VIOLA!! a wiring schematic

Looks like the common thread to my woes is indeed the key/switchy/thingy.

I'll post the results of the operation.

singingcamel · 03-06-2007, 05:10 PM

sounds like to me the fuseable link has shorted out.
near the battery there is a cloth covered wire harness ,peel that back and you will find the link there.thats responsible for all your issues withe the interior light and the no start issues.good luck