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Old 01-02-2008, 08:16 PM   #16 (permalink)
'98 Discovery SE7
 
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I ordered the bolt from the same vendor..
This time I will have a friend helping me torque this bolt with one continuous 90 degree motion. As for the swivel socket, probably is the best choice if you don't modify the angle of the engine but since I lowered the engine there is plenty of space now to put a regular or a deep socket .
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Old 01-10-2008, 07:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Received the replacement bolt..
Any suggestions on removing the one that's in now and is rounded?
I tried to remove it with Pavel's method ( piece of 2x4 wood)..No Luck.!!!

I'm even thinking about removing the whole engine mount it on a stand...but I was looking at the upper transmission to engine bolts...man ..big pain in the butt to remove those as well!!!
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Old 01-10-2008, 07:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Try filing two sides flat so that you can fit a open end spanner on it.
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Old 01-11-2008, 09:21 AM   #19 (permalink)
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sunshineking: what about getting some professional advice at this point. If you change the shape of the bolt head any more, it may become impossible to get it out the normal way. Some shops have those wonderful old guys who can solve these problems using magic. (He'll be in his 60s or 70s, smoking like a chimney and bad tempered....)
There is also the idea of just driving the vehicle as is. If you drive the vehicle and the head gasket leaks, then is the time to redo that bank of cylinders.
Taking the engine out is alot of work - hopefully not necessary. Best of luck with this problem.
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Old 01-11-2008, 09:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I was able to remove it using 16mm craftsman bolt removal socket with spiral threads that tightly grips damaged fasteners.
Installed the new one and with the help of a friend everything went very smooth this time !
This is a project car for me so I learned a lot even if sometimes I felt like calling the junkyard to come and pick it up....
Many Thanks to all of you guys for your advise!!
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Old 01-11-2008, 10:00 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Well done sunshineking! It's always great to hear of someone getting themselves out of trouble....happy Discoing!
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Old 01-19-2008, 10:56 AM   #22 (permalink)
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how about the mounts..in what position we mount 'em back in ..rubber seam up vertically or on the side?
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Old 01-19-2008, 03:03 PM   #23 (permalink)
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It does not matter which way they go in. The seam does not signify anything.
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Old 01-27-2008, 10:20 PM   #24 (permalink)
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anybody knows what type of sealant is used between upper intake( the part with 8 pipes ) and lower intake? I probably shouldn't have take'em apart but I did it and now I wonder if it is bare metal on metal or use some type of clear sealant ..
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Old 01-28-2008, 03:39 AM   #25 (permalink)
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You may find this site useful for your past and current queries.

LAND ROVER MANUALS DOWNLOAD
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Old 01-28-2008, 09:52 AM   #26 (permalink)
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sunshineking: The last time I did this job, I used Permatex Ultra Copper No. 101BR. It's a high temp RTV and worked well. Cheers.
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Old 03-14-2008, 06:20 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunshineking View Post
Had my heads redone for my 98 Discovery I and i am in the process of remounting them back on the block.

Can anybody describe a good procedure and tools/special sockets for tightening the head bolt #10( short bolt close to the firewall) to the specified torque?

I had all the bolts torqued to 20Nm first then 90 degrees but for the last 90 I can't really apply that much force to this specific bolt and don't want to end up with a rounded head bolt..
I torqued the #10 and no problems so far.
Using:
1 short craftman hexagonal socket
1 u joint
1 4" extension
1 Torque Wrench
I used the firewall to support the u joint and the extencion for tightening the head bolt .

Good luck
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Old 03-14-2008, 09:16 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mramire2 View Post
1 u joint
A U Joint will stuff up your torque readings
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