5" lift ...

[J.C]

In my opionion 5” is a little over the top. My D1 has about 1.5” spring lift with stock tyres, I love the setup.

[natvboy]

thanks for all the input guys!! I'll post pics once I decide what I am going to do

[p76rangie]

The photos of the white disco with the 5 inch lift actually demonstrates very well the issues with such an exercise. You will notice that the front spring has not compressed at all due to the stiff springs used for the lift. To prove that, look at the gap between the top of the wheel and the guard (fender). With standard springs and all wheels flat on the ground, a 5 inch lift would cause the top of the tyre to be 5 inches further away from the guard. This Disco has supposedly 35 inch tyres. This would mean that 3 inches of the extra gap would be taken up by the bigger tyre, leaving the car sitting with a 2 inch extra gap. In the photo with the wheel up on the wood, the gap between the top of the wheel and the guard is still about 2 inches greater than the standard gap. This means that the spring has virtually not compressed at all. The result of this is clearly shown in the photo, the car has been tilted heavily to the right, increasing the chance of roll over and making it unstable. You can also see that the back springs have also had no movement. If you lighten up the photo you will see that the rear springs have become disconnected at the top by around 6 inches resulting from the spring not expanding with the change in load on that wheel. Therefore the spring is not giving the car any stability at all. This set up will give you a very rough ride due to the very heavy springs, the height will increase instability, and the springs will not support the vehicle through any movement. So in summary the Disco is pretty useless on and off road.

Keep the springs as soft as possible and don't go doing these sort of things to your car.

Ian

[TN-LR3]

ROVERTYM 3 inch lift plus 2 inch body lift seems the best way to me

[freeflytim]

Ben- you know this how??

An RTE 3inch with 2inch body lift does NOT include extended brake lines, corrected arms all the way around, new driveshafts and 4.11s diffs to go with the bigger tires he will probably also put on. And with those bigger tires need heavy duty axles.. A 'proper' 5 inch lift will run $8-$10k.. (RTE- REAL 5inch lift -$2k, GBR axles $2k, GBR 4.11s (w/ARB) $4500.)

A lot of people who have gone with 5 inch lifts (and *really* use them in places like MOAB and not Indiana) have found more trouble than they are worth.. driveability and breakage issues... and are downsizing to a 3 with a 3link up front... which will make it articulate so much more than dudes' hacked up white truck

[freeflytim]

Dude with the white truck....

do you know those 'tie downs' in the back are not 'recovery points' for d-rings????????????

Id suggest that no one stands within a 100 feet the first time you use them.

Have fun and try not kill anyone or smash a windshield when one snaps off.

[freeflytim]

And to the original poster... keep it simple dude.. You said you're in SD with rocks... So.. Start with armor- sliders... then RTE 3inch lift.. then 33x10.50s on ARWs.. then slim bumpers (like SG or RTE).. then GBR 4.11s w/ARB. It will go more places than your 5.5inch lifted jeep did!

[p76rangie]

Tim, with the lift you are talking about (3 inch spring + 2 inch body) you should not need new brake lines, you can simply reposition the start and end of the rubber sections. You should not require correction arms, eventhough a 3 inch spring lift is starting to get borderline. Definitely no need for new drive shafts. 4.11 diff ratios become handy if you go bigger than 34 inch tyres, but the vehicle remains very drivable without them. Going bigger tyres does not generally require heavy duty axles. Ran 34's with diff locks for many years with standard axles. But if you go to 4.11 diffs you will need them as they put extra stress on the axles.

A 2 inch body lift should cost you no more than $200 if you make it yourself. All you need to buy is 2 foot of 2 inch solid aluminium round bar and cut it into 2 inch lengths. Get 10 bolts that are longer than the standard body mount bolts and you are 90% there. You just then need to make up some brackets to extend the seatbelt tie down points and some brackets to move the brake lines. The brackets are simply for anyone to make with a hacksaw, vice, drill and a hammer.

Springs should cost you no more than $200 and end. So for no more than $1,000, and a weekends work, you can have them in.

Ian

[wyorover]

just started a new project 99 disco went with rovertym 5 lift but its not
on yet. as for stabilty and beeing top heavy probebly more so than a2 or3
look at the pic of scotts truck on rovertym web site and ask yourself will i
ever do more than this guy? it seems to stay on its wheels.

[p76rangie]

In the photos he is simply playing around on some nice dry rocks. He also has MTRs on that supply good grip on rocks. You do not see too many photos of him on a side slope. In the photo of him attempting a step up hill, with the photo tracken from the front, look at how far the front is sitting up. It is making the angle of the vehicle a lot greater than the slope.

Most vehicles with a much smaller lift would be able to complete the same photo opportunities.

You may also notice the large bump stop extensions on the car that stops the wheels coming up. This again forces the car to lean over.

Sorry, but still can't see why you would go with such a large spring lift.

Ian

[wyorover]

I dont realy like a tall truck and have never liked big tires but you cant say
the larger radius of a 35 inch tire isnt better for the rocks and steep ditches
things like that.most big lifts are not done right. by spending the $$$$ and not taking short cuts i hope to be happy with it. but its not on yet ?

[p76rangie]

Wyorover, you do not require a 5 inch spring lift to fit 35 inch tyres. I have very close to 35's with a 2 inch spring lift on my Rangie and earlier in this thread I posted a picture of a DII with close to 35's with only about 1.5 inch spring lift. I obviously see the advantages of larger tyres as I have them. But I have seen time and time again issues with vehicles that buy off the self spring lifts that simply supply stiffer springs. If you are after a spring lift, you can stay within the standard landrover range of springs. Go longer first and then heavier if required. I have a steel front bull bar and winch on the front and have obtained a 2 inch lift with only 170lb/in springs. I have a lot of gear in the back along with a 90ltr LPG tank, 80 litre fuel tank, and rear step bar and obtained a 2 inch lift with only 220lb/in springs. Before the winch on the front, I was running 150lb/in springs in the front.

But as previously stated, the spring lift was not to fit bigger tyres on, they were to more centre the axle movement. The 2 inch body lift and flares are to fit the bigger tyres. The tyres will fit without the spring lift, I just don't get as good articulation.

Ian

[p76rangie]

Spending dollars does not mean that you get any better or worse solution than could be obtained through other means. The 5 inch spring kit for $2,600 is proof of that.

[disco12]

I have a 2 inch lift on 32 inch tires I think it is a good setup and my D1 feels very stable. before I got the larger tires with the stock tires my D1 was flexing like mad at the west coastrover outing. As mention eariler by me I'm going with a 2 inch rovertym Body lift.

[Funrover]

Originally Posted by p76rangie

Wyorover, you do not require a 5 inch spring lift to fit 35 inch tyres. I have very close to 35's with a 2 inch spring lift on my Rangie

Ian

How much hacking away did you have to do? To fit 33"s you have to trim a fair amount...... any pics? Unless yu have factoryrims..Then not as much trimming....But more likely to roll over... Just curious.....