'94 Disco not starting - Need Help! - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2016, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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'94 Disco not starting - Need Help!

All,

This is my first post, so I appreciate the support in advance. Here's the situation:

- 1994 Disco Series I
- ~135k miles
- owned for 3 x months
- Saturday: drove approximately 3 hours (highway & country roads)
- Sunday: same
- Monday am: drove 10 miles to work
- Monday pm: won't start

I tried jumping, but all I could get was power to the hazards, dim headlights, and it attempted to turnover once.
The battery is full and has enough juice to cold crank (had it tested twice at two different locations).
Replaced the battery cables.
Replaced the fuses (a couple were corroded).
Basically it's got juice, but it's not getting to the starter, and I'm afraid I've reached the limit of my technical know-how. I'd rather attempt to fix it before I have a mechanic chase gremlins for $300.hour.

All help is much appreciated!

Beast36
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-18-2016, 06:30 PM
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Basically it's got juice, but it's not getting to the starter,...
Hi, have you actually measured for voltage at the starter and nothing while you turn ignition to crank? ... or there is voltage but the starter doesnt spin? ... it's important to know that cos if there's no voltage it's an electrical issue (wiring or relay... btw you could put a new relay to be ruled out) if there is voltage the starter is gone

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if you think my english is peculiar it means you didnt hear my japanese

ALL MY ADVICES ARE BASED ON MY OWN EXPERIENCE AND MY WAY OF UNDERSTANDING THE DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION OF SYSTEMS NOT OFFICIAL METHODS... I'M NOT A LAND ROVER TRAINED SPECIALIST JUST AN ADDICTED ENTHUSIAST.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 02:37 PM Thread Starter
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sierrafery, thanks for the reply. I have not measured the voltage at the starter, and that was my thinking for the next step. I have a sneaking suspicion that the starter is the culprit.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 07:57 PM
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OK I am new to this forum. I just got give my 95 Disco 1 3.9L V8 by my cousin. Was told that only the starter needed replaced (which it definitely did, it was BROKE). It didn't come with a battery either. I bought a BRAND NEW battery from work and a REMAN starter. All connected up, correctly. All fuses are good! All relays are good! When I turn the key nothing happens. There is no crank, there is no start, AT ALL! Everything is plugged in as it should. When I turn the key I can hear, and physically feel the starter relay trying to work. However, the fuel pump DOES NOT engage, there is no signs of cranking, and there is no signs of starter engaging. The flashers were flickering, so from reading on the forum I left the key in the one position and hit the inertira switch and waiting 5 minutes and the flashers did NOT turn off, and the Disco still would not crank or start. So then I took the key out (NO I DO NOT HAVE A CHIPPED KEY OR A FOB) shut the door and locked/unlocked the doors 5 times in a row. This disabled the flashers, but I still have a no crank no start and I am honestly out of ideas on what can be going on here. ALL THE LIGHTS WORK, the stereo DOES NOT work, the fans DO NOT work (which the fans and stereo are the least of my worries right now). ALL THE WINDOWS ROLL UP AND DOWN. THE WIPERS WORK. I am trying to get this baby on the road. PLEASE HELP ME I AM OUT OF IDEAS!!!

Thanks!
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 08:53 PM
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If you can feel the starter relay struggling better replace it with a new one first to rule it out, you said it's good, how do you know that for sure? ... let it out of gear, remove the starter relay and use a wire to bridge the contact(the two cavities which are prependicular) then it should crank but if the pump doesnt work either it might be an immobiliser issue so identify that C274, it should be white and must have 6 pins, pins 1 and 2 are black/orange wires, remove these from the plug and join them together see if it helps or not...this trick only disables the immobiliser nothing else cos the immobiliser should be disabled by using the fob which you dont have

btw, on a RHD vehicle this whole thing might be on the other side but the rest is the same
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My friends call me Fery

2000 Discovery Td5 ES manual

Hawkeye v.6, Nanocom EVO,
VDM UCANDAS, oscilloscope


if you think my english is peculiar it means you didnt hear my japanese

ALL MY ADVICES ARE BASED ON MY OWN EXPERIENCE AND MY WAY OF UNDERSTANDING THE DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION OF SYSTEMS NOT OFFICIAL METHODS... I'M NOT A LAND ROVER TRAINED SPECIALIST JUST AN ADDICTED ENTHUSIAST.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 10:32 AM
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It's basic electricity. Check with a test light to see if you have current to the spade connector on the solenoid when the key is in the start position. If so, check all your connections. If you can hear the starter solenoid engage, but no start, you either don't have enough current to crank the engine, the starter is defective, or the engine is seized. You can't assume the battery you bought was fully charged or if the reman starter is any good- especially if it came from a place like AutoZone.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sierrafery View Post
If you can feel the starter relay struggling better replace it with a new one first to rule it out, you said it's good, how do you know that for sure? ... let it out of gear, remove the starter relay and use a wire to bridge the contact(the two cavities which are prependicular) then it should crank but if the pump doesnt work either it might be an immobiliser issue so identify that C274, it should be white and must have 6 pins, pins 1 and 2 are black/orange wires, remove these from the plug and join them together see if it helps or not...this trick only disables the immobiliser nothing else cos the immobiliser should be disabled by using the fob which you dont have

btw, on a RHD vehicle this whole thing might be on the other side but the rest is the same
OK I will try it tomorrow during my lunch time to see if that works. I know the relay is good because I switched around all the yellow relays and when that didn't work I replaced them all. EVERY SINGLE YELLOW RELAY as been replaced. The battery read out 12.9V when tested. So any other suggestions that I can try tomorrow?
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 04:48 PM
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It's basic electricity. Check with a test light to see if you have current to the spade connector on the solenoid when the key is in the start position. If so, check all your connections. If you can hear the starter solenoid engage, but no start, you either don't have enough current to crank the engine, the starter is defective, or the engine is seized. You can't assume the battery you bought was fully charged or if the reman starter is any good- especially if it came from a place like AutoZone.
Had my new battery tested and it had 12.9V. Had the starter tested and it tested good. My parts come from wor . I work at Baxter Auto and we get all our stuff through Endurance and PW. I don't hear the solenoid engage at all. It's the starter relay that let's out 1 click right after the 1 click in the lock cylinder. There is no other clicking and there is no attempt to start. There is no engagement from the starter nor the fuel pump or anything. You turn the key and absolutely nothing happens. There is ton of oil in the motor. There is no leaking from underneath that I can see. So any other suggestions?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 04:14 AM
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Are you getting current to the small tab on the solenoid?
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 05:04 AM
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Are you getting current to the small tab on the solenoid?
I'll have to check. That could be my issue. How many wires are supposed to be hooked to the starter anyhow? I can see 2 thick red and thick black but nothing else. A friend of mine put the starter in for me while I was working so I wouldn't have to do it after work in the rain and the dark.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 06:00 AM
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It's probably time for you to get some professional assistance on this
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 06:11 AM
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It's probably time for you to get some professional assistance on this
That's what I was afraid of.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:47 AM
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We'd like to help you, but you've got to bring some basic mechanical skills to the table. One wire- the big one going to the main post on the starter solenoid, sends current to the starter when you turn the key. The key switch sends a small current to the small wire that plugs onto the solenoid right next to the big wire to tell the solenoid to engage the drive and to close the contacts sending current throughthe solenoid's switch contacts and into the starter. You can purchase a remote starter switch that has a trigger that will manually activate the starter. Or you can jump the positive post to the solenoid +12 with a pair of old pliers or a screwdriver. If it doesn't crank then, your battery is bad, your starter is bad or you have bad connections. Don't make the assumption that any new part can't be bad. It does happen. There's tons of cheap Chinese Reman crap out there showing up in nice shiny boxes and sold by reputable places.

You said in your first post that it tried to turn over and you had dim headlights on a new, hot battery. So that eliminates the disable feature as your problem. Unless... you did something to trigger it.

Dim headlights tells me you have bad connections, either on the hot side or the ground. If it won't light up the headlights, it won't start the car.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 06:29 PM
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My money is with CT on this one...Good battery, good (?) starter...CLEAN ALL CONNECTIONS with emery cloth, reassemble, turn your key and she'll start....Also check for excessive corrosion on any of your cables, especially at the start of the "jacketing" (insulation)..that would mean the cable is bad and will NOT carry full voltage...The corrosion will look like a chalky blueish powdery substance.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-23-2017, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Redneck_Disco1_Gal View Post
I'll have to check. That could be my issue. How many wires are supposed to be hooked to the starter anyhow? I can see 2 thick red and thick black but nothing else. A friend of mine put the starter in for me while I was working so I wouldn't have to do it after work in the rain and the dark.

G`day ,

find the thin wire that goes to the spade connector on the solenoid .

If it`s not hanging down it`s either above or if your unlucky could be caught between the starter and bell housing .

Ask you friend how many wires he removed and if there was a thin one .

Your description to me is saying the red and black you see are the same thickness ?

Does the black go to the bolts that secure the starter and are your sure it actually goes to the starter ?

If this thin wire and/or connector don`t fit well and make good contact on the solenoid spade a vehicle that has been running or working will act as yours is .

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