96 Disco Instrument Cluster Circuitry

[Beluga96]

Is it true that the circuitry that you can see at the back of the cluster are actually circuits?

So, basically some of the holes have bulbs in them and some don't. If I was to take all the bulbs out and put them all in to every single hole there is...would I be actually causing a short?

The reason I'm asking is because there were some holes that didn't have bulbs in them when I took the unit out. Now, I put in bulbs in every known hole and it's hard to tell which one originally didn't have any bulbs in them as all have marks now.

Also, my battery died last night, and also a couple weeks ago before I took out the cluster. Obviously, my alternator seems to be going out as it doesn't charge right.

But...has this bulb thing messed up the circuit. My SRS light comes on now, and my blinkers don't show any more. Does anyone know if I'm right? Does anyone know how I'm supposed to put the bulbs in, if there is a chart similar to a wiring diagram etc?

Really appreciated.

[Disco]

The back of the instrument cluster is a circuit board. The extra holes for the globes are for various functions that your vehicle doesn't have. If you have put light globes into the extra holes it won't do any damage to the circuits. If some of the globes do not light such as blinkers, then the globes are probably shot, swap the globes around. Your dead battery could be a result of either old age or very cold weather or both. Check the battery to see if it will hold a charge before you rip into the alternator. Unfortunately, the SRS light will come on and stay on every time you disconnect or have a flat battery.

[Beluga96]

The battery isn't that old. However, the Tach needle stays down most of the time, and suddenly jumps up into play randomly, working appropriately. I read in an earlier thread that that is a sign the alternator is going out.

Also, I added Hella 1000s and 5 more square (like Hella 500s) auxiliaries on the roof and one in the back, using the driver's side power seat connector as a circuit with a relay of course (in order for it to turn on and off with the ignition, and give me the comfort of being close to where I put the switches on the window switch panel). The first night I used those lights, everything was fine, but in the second night, the battery died.

Just to be safe, I pulled the fuse in that new circuit. I jumped the car, and the alternator was acting like it couldn't charge the battery. All the lights were flickering, and everything would react to the turn signals, or even if I stepped on the gas a little. I thought it needed a little time, so I drove around a little. Things seemed to be getting worse, so I didn't risk it. I luckily made it home and parked her in the garage. The next day, she needed a jump again, but drove around normal, charging all day long. I turned her off and started her again several times in the day...no problems. The fuse is still out on the new circuit.

Anyhow, a couple of days, later, I changed out the stock (or optional but factory), H3 halogens as they were burnt out. I used them a little last night, and the battery died again.

The instrument panel is just another thing I'm doing, and I'm wondering if I'm shorting the system like my light circuit might be.....

OR

THE CULPRIT IS THE ALTERNATOR ALL ALONG. Any ideas?

[me.guevara]

My vote is with a bad alt...

[Disco]

From what you are now saying it's obvious that your alternator cannot supply enough current to your extra lights. Whether or not the alternator is charging properly, you need to upgrade it to around 120 watts or bigger. When you change it, have your alternator tested, and if it's still okay keep it as a spare.

[afirover]

your alt is shot

[Beluga96]

Gentlemen...

There are some new developments. The following day after that last post, I went out to the Beast, and decided to give her a jump with my wife's tercel...yes, she likes small zippy and cheap cars.

So, the car started with a little bit of difficulty finally. I unplugged the battery while the car ran, and the motor seemed to speed up whenever I let the battery go. As soon as I would make a connection to the battery, it would slow down again...the battery was totally juiced...had it checked and changed (with a megasuperduper brand name 800 CCA etc).

However, I still haven't had the alternator tested in the first place. I could have drained the battery that one time I left the 1000s on to turn off with the seat switch circuit...that's after I switch off the car with the doors having to be opened and closed once. The alternator can still be dying due to the lack of action on the Tach, whenever it wants. Since I don't have a voltometer, I'll go get it tested tomorrow.

My "Service Engine" light came on right with the new battery. I'm wondering if this has to do with the alternator suddenly having a powerful companion battery that has to keep the beast running.

[Beluga96]

UPDATE:

I changed out the alternator with a new 150A core. I also got a new battery with 975 CCA. The car's running like a champ now. Everything's brighter on the dash, and ignition sounds better too. I haven't felt it run like this, ever.