"96 Disco rear driveshaft pic

[FattBastard]

Hello all!
Im new here and I joined bacause these sites are the best source of intel I have ever found.
I have inherited a 1996 Land Rover from a friend who didnt want to mess with it anymore. It looks as tho it has been sitting for 4 years, unmoved.
I trailered it home to discover the battery is of course toast, so i havnt dorked with it yet.
My concern is the attached picture. It looks as tho the rear drive shaft at the axle yolk has been sheared off. But I am under the impression that something is missing. Obviously the bolts are gone, all three of them, but can someone help me out and tell me what else is missing?
The driveshaft will extend to the rear and but the bolt surfaces will not come in contact with each other, leaving a small gap that makes me believe something should be in between them.
Anyone have any pix they can share to help out?
Thank you guys, for any help you can be...

[Bigdog]

Looks like the rotoflex is gone. I thought they converted to 4 bolt flange from 96 onwards.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AutoGuide.Com Free App

[Racer X]

How in the hell...

3 bolt flange:
Flange - Differential (Three Bolt) (Part # STC3723) - Land Rover differential internal from Atlantic British

Rotoflex:
Driveshaft Rubber Coupling (Part # TVF100010) - Land Rover driveshafts from Atlantic British

Rear Drive Shaft:
Land Rover Drive Shafts: For Discovery I And Range Rover Classic

Personally, I would contact Paul Grant and have him send you a complete rear 3rd member and rear driveshaft. The parts I mentioned above are only what I can see, I have no way to tell what the functional condition of that 3rd member is. I don't have great hopes after seeing that picture, to be honest.

[FattBastard]

A third memner just doesnt seem economical with the LR name on it, then theres the expense of hiring someone to install axle tubes and weld on all of the suspension hardware and brake hardware. Im thinking the rear end is ok, it makes no noise when rolling, albeit it theres nothing connected to it.
The problem I face is, I dont know whats missing. Is there a cover that fits over the rubber coupler? what else isnt there? I cant find any pix on the net of what the completed assembly looks like.
I know there is a Land Rover wrecking yard in Phx but I cant find out who or where they are.
Im ok with buying the parts listed above, but the flange wont work, the drivelines are all the 4 bolt jobs, but the 4 bolt flange is available there too. No biggie,
I just dont want to order the stuff from Ca then find out midway thru the rear end that something is still missing.
RacerX, great info and knowhow, very MUCH appriciated.
I have plenty of heavy line exp and the R&R doesnt scrrr me, I just want to order it all at once. have any other ideas on whats missing or where I can see pix of a completed assembly?

[FattBastard]

Atlantic british actually sells a kit that converts to a U joint style greasable conversion, alas, I still need to buy a driveshaft. Mine is smoked... too bad.

Another question if you dont mind, its been sitting for years, will run on ether when applied but dies right away. Presumably, the fuel pump isnt pumping, there is no fuel pressure in the lines at the Schrader valve. Pump frozen up maybe? any way to test for juice to the pump? The fuses are all intact and working right, and when I key the ignition, I DO NOT hear the electric pump buzzing.....
BTW, thank you again racerX for the reference to AB for parts, great folks there!

[stb616]

Here's some driveshaft options-- You might find one good enough to just swap it out....you can upgrade it later once you get the truck up and running.

Search Results


If that link doesn't work, go to Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market


Pull up the rear carpet and you can get to the fuel pump once you remove the access cover thing.

[Racer X]

A new 3rd member from Paul Grant is a lot less expensive than you think. His prices are really unbeatable.

And yeah, it's quiet rolling, but how about when you put power through it?

Seriously, reach out to Paul Grant. paulgrant@mac.com

[fishEH]

Whoa there! Why does he need a third member? If the truck isn't lifted you can put a new rotoflex coupling in. However, it looks as though the driveshaft and and pinion flanges are broken. I have have a rotoflex driveshaft and the pinion flange I can sell you. Then all you'd need is the rubber roto coupling from RovahFarm.
Shoot me a PM if interested.

[Racer X]

Originally Posted by fishEH

Whoa there! Why does he need a third member? If the truck isn't lifted you can put a new rotoflex coupling in. However, it looks as though the driveshaft and and pinion flanges are broken. I have have a rotoflex driveshaft and the pinion flange I can sell you. Then all you'd need is the rubber roto coupling from RovahFarm.
Shoot me a PM if interested.

Looking at the condition of those flanges, I have zero confidence in the maintenance history of that differential. That's why I would replace the whole third member.

[SSL9000J]

I've got a '98 and it looks nothing like that. Where's the U-joint?

[Paul Grant]

The driveshafts were changed back to the four bolt in '98. Some '97's may have come from the factory with them but not many.

I have a rotoflex rear differential for $50 plus shipping. The diff weighs 64 pounds and gets shipped in a 5 gallon bucket by UPS. I have them ready to go.

I also have rotoflex rear propshafts for $50 as well if you decide to go that route.

Alternatively, for $150 (including the cost of shipping) I can send you a good rear propshaft and the four bolt conversion kit to convert the diff you have to the more robust four bolt version at the rear. That is, dependent on you're certainty that the rear diff is ok.

Let me know if I can be of help.
Cheers,
Paul

[antichrist]

Originally Posted by Racer X

Looking at the condition of those flanges, I have zero confidence in the maintenance history of that differential. That's why I would replace the whole third member.

Well, using that rationale the same could be said for everything on the truck. Are you going to replace everything?
Just drain the gear lube and look at it. If there's no water or metal bits fill the diff back up.

[Racer X]

Originally Posted by antichrist

Well, using that rationale the same could be said for everything on the truck. Are you going to replace everything?
Just drain the gear lube and look at it. If there's no water or metal bits fill the diff back up.

Personally, if I would have seen that on a potential purchase, unless the truck was given to me for a song, I wouldn't own it.

That said, it sounds like the OP did get the truck for free, so yeah, I would be replacing everything that needed it, including that diff and driveshaft.