Let me start by saying that I'm certainly not mechanically-minded. I'm only a teenager, and this 96 Discovery is my first car. It's done 160k miles. I guess I could say, please show some patience with me. What I describe below might be the most simple of issues, but I simply wouldn't know where to start
First off, every window except the drivers one is buggered. The rear two seem to have no power at all - do I just need to check the fuses (If I'm not mistaken, fusebox should be under the bonnet to one side, and another one by the drivers pedals?)
Front passenger window is shot, I can hear the motor turning, but the window is jammed where it is (A little bit open, unfortunately)
I've also noticed I've got that "Disco Clunk" discussed in a few other threads. It certainly doesn't sound like it's severe, just a little bump occasionally when I change from drive into reverse. Is it fine to leave it like this, is there something I can do myself to help ease the problem or will it need a professional fix?
Brakes are starting to do a bit of a screech - take 'em in to get fixed?
I've got today off school, so I'm going to go outside and spend the day cleaning it up and fixing little wee problems I've noticed. Is there any specific things I should be doing with the Landy other than the basic cleaning stuff internal/external? Anything under the bonnet I should attend to? (Other than oil/water - I'm bad with cars, but not that bad )
I'll get the tires up to the correct pressure as well, I never realised there was a specific way the Landy's needed their tires done.
Ok , First you are you are in the same boat as me , look or search for my posts , i have almost exactly the same problems , but no one has answered them yet , so i trying to find answers too dude
Fixed three of the four doors, just needed to scrape some gunk (!) out of the actuator (I think I've got the right name for it) and sprayed a bit of lubricant in there, now the doors are back to opening without any resistance - except the passenger one.
Andrew - it sounds like your door handle actuator problem is exactly what I'm struggling with now. If you buy an actuator from Paul Grant, could you let me know what you had to do to install it?
Fusebox is missing two fuses, they're just not there. I'm going to take a guess and assume that might be the reason my windows don't work
woooh - went to start her up today (Had just stopped for two minutes after a solid twenty minute drive) and it stalled instantly after roaring into life as usual. Did it twice, before I managed to start it up with a fair few revs
I'm really hoping this might not be a major issue - last time it was doing that just a while ago I had the distributor cap replaced, and got a general tune up. But that was only a few months ago.. worth worrying about?
My '96 was doing that several weeks ago, then Thursday night it died while running down the road. This weekend I've been playing with it and it's looking like the fuel pump. Replacing it is not a major issue at all. Having an unreliable one is worse.
Edited today to add....
If you look at my other post, I've determined my pump is OK, but must have a short in the harness somewhere. I wish it was the pump.
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1996 D1 - The White Whale
Last edited by Swivelball : 07-04-2009 at 10:34 AM.
Ahh, crap. I've just had the fuel pump replaced :|
Will have to get the brakes and fuel pump checked when I go to get my warrant of fitness. Thanks for the answer - I'll be watching LowBudgetRovers threads for some info on the actuators
It could also be a problem with your IACV, Idle Air Control Valve (stepper motor). Its resonsbible for compenstating things that would otherwise drain engine power. You could start by taking it off and giving it a good cleaning. Good News is easy to get to. And theres plenty of good info out there on testing and cleaing your IACV.
However I have had similar problems with my Disco stalling immediatly after starting up, and it ended up being the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). At 160k miles, its very likely that if your TPS hasn't been replaced by now, it could be faulty. It's located off to the left of the IACV, on the throttle body.
How does your Disco Idle? High? Low? Rough? Does it acclerate pretty consistantly?
Is your check engine light on?
Best of Luck Tom.
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-99 Disco I
98k Miles
"Where were going, we don't need roads"
No check engine light at all - but I found out the other day when I had a big clean up on the thing that there are two fuses missing. Asked Dad why, he said he removed the fuse for the ABS light so that the car could pass it's warrant, which is off because I thought the ABS issues were fixed last time it goes serviced (Removal of that switch doesn't flick the ABS off does it?)
But back on-topic, after firing it up (and it started fine just a few minutes ago) it stayed even at about 800rpm, and I haven't had any acceleration issues recently.
Cheers for the suggestions - I'll write all this down and take it with me when I go to get it serviced. After reading a lot of threads here, I've decided that theres a good chance the local mechanic might not be 100% familiar with Land Rovers and their issues.
Fixed three of the four doors, just needed to scrape some gunk (!) out of the actuator (I think I've got the right name for it) and sprayed a bit of lubricant in there, now the doors are back to opening without any resistance - except the passenger one.
Andrew - it sounds like your door handle actuator problem is exactly what I'm struggling with now. If you buy an actuator from Paul Grant, could you let me know what you had to do to install it?
Fusebox is missing two fuses, they're just not there. I'm going to take a guess and assume that might be the reason my windows don't work
Yep , only the pasenger , and rear trunck struggle to open, so i have to open them fromthe inside , its such a pain. i will order from Paul Grant when i get the money , and etc.. Im hoping only the actuators is messed up , and not the latch. The latch seems fine when i open it from the inside , but if i replace the actuator , should i replace the latch too for salf precautions.
Hey LowBudgetRover, I think the actual latches might be whats buggered in mind. Was fiddling around with it, and if I put my finger against the latch and flick it up, pulling the door handle should release it. I noticed that when I pulled the door handle, the corresponding part which moves upwards, and releases the latch (allowing the door to be opened) is not moving up far enough to allow the latch to be released. Hence why when I finally open the door, it requires me to really yank on the door handle. Because that big yank I give it pulls the part UPWARDS, and releases the latch.
I gave the top of my latch a slight file down (Didn't have the proper gear for it, and it's rather fiddly to do) but now it seems it's engaging a little bit better. Now, if I do what I did above, I find that the latch flicks free if I just pull on it slightly, which makes me think that somewhere inside the door handle, the spring which I suppose it meant to pull that latch free, is stuffed, and not pulling enough. Either that, or if I file it enough in the right place the latch might start pulling away easier?
I'm gonna have another play around with it in a week or so (Am flat out working until the end of the week) and I'll let you know if I can fix it.
I noticed today at work that just lubricating and cleaning out that area (The hole in the door where all the parts are - I am not sure what to call it) and possibly the filing I did to the latch, certainly improved the ability for me to open my door properly. The problem, which had been starting on other doors as well, is no longer present on any of my other doors anymore :P
Might try and get some pics up sometime soon, but I'm sorry to say that it won't be for another four-five days at least.
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'96 Discovery - sorting out the little issues.
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