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Old 06-22-2006, 03:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Almost back on the road - just a little rust issue

My Discovery's been off the road for a while. I some how managed to nacker the engine. Probably partly due to slight over fueling (diesel) but it appears if there may have been a more underlying issue also.

Anyhow here's some pics of the replacement 200Tdi unit finally in it's new home, also revamped the front bumper and added some discreet recovery points.
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almost-back-road-just-little-rust-issue-dsc_1758.jpg  almost-back-road-just-little-rust-issue-dsc_1768.jpg  almost-back-road-just-little-rust-issue-dsc_1766.jpg  almost-back-road-just-little-rust-issue-dsc_1773.jpg  almost-back-road-just-little-rust-issue-dsc_1770.jpg  

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Old 06-22-2006, 03:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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However, I have since found a slight problem under the rear carpet. It's a common issue with Discovery's and Range Rover's, and I can see why.

There are two transverse support struts which appear to be made of the cheapest nastiest faux steel ever. Of course mud, road dirt and water spray up on the under side which has rotted them which has then spread into the rear floor. Fortunately the wheel arches are fine. And the main floor section is only seem welded/tacked in, so removing it will be no problem. Also it's not structural. A nice ALUMINIUM floor will be replacing it, as it should have been all along, as it is in Series and Defenders (damn accountants and their cost cutting ). Will keep you all updated as I get it finished over the next 5-6 weeks (need to wait for payday )
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almost-back-road-just-little-rust-issue-dsc_1760.jpg  almost-back-road-just-little-rust-issue-dsc_1762.jpg  almost-back-road-just-little-rust-issue-dsc_1763.jpg  almost-back-road-just-little-rust-issue-dsc_1771.jpg  almost-back-road-just-little-rust-issue-dsc_1774.jpg  

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Old 06-22-2006, 03:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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nice pics! Only question... those recovery points are discrete ?!
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Old 06-22-2006, 03:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmuller
nice pics! Only question... those recovery points are discrete ?!
lol

I have a larger Nato Pintle to go one the back, just need to finishing strengthening the rear bumper and mounts first.
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:30 AM   #5 (permalink)
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is there some kind of backing or re-enforcment on that bumper? the sheet metal isn't very thick and i've seen rear recovery points set up like that, that practicly tore the bumper off
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Old 06-23-2006, 02:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bene
is there some kind of backing or re-enforcment on that bumper? the sheet metal isn't very thick and i've seen rear recovery points set up like that, that practicly tore the bumper off
Yeah, bumper is plated and attached with high tensile bolts. The front bumper is attached with 8 bolts so that should hold fine. the rear bumper only uses 2 bolts so I'm custom fabbing some brackets to attach the bumper on the the rear cross member and chassis rails where the drop plate (towing) would normally connect.
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Mods:Allisport LARGE FMIC | Allisport Tuned | Simex Jungle Trekker II 33.11.50R15 Tyres | 15x8 8 Spokes | Heavy Duty Uprated Suspension (shocks & springs) | Wheel arch Flares | 1" Wheel Spacers | Custom Straight Thru Exhaust | Custom Trimmed Front bumper with twin NATO Hooks | Custom Rear Bumper with single Large NATO Hook 360˚ Swival | Front Light Guards | Custom Aluminium Rear Floor | Bonnet Straps | 100w Spot Lights | Upgraded Headlights

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Old 06-23-2006, 12:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i have the same rust problem. just a question where are you getting the replacement floor and how much is it all running you.
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default recovery points

ok, so let me get this straight...those recovery point are mounted on a stock bumper? and if so, does "revamped" mean you re-inforced it? just curious, because i love that idea and would really like to do something like that. so pretty much what im asking: is the front stock bumper strong enough to use for recovery, or should I find a way to beef up the mounts to the frame?
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Old 06-23-2006, 04:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96owner
i have the same rust problem. just a question where are you getting the replacement floor and how much is it all running you.
I'm just going to get a sheet of aluminium. Stainless steel would be another option.

Any metal merchant should be able to supply a sheet of aluminium for not a lot of money. Have a look on Ebay there's usually quite a few. Just give em a ring and tell them the size you need.
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Old 06-23-2006, 04:15 PM   #10 (permalink)
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FWIW, for those of you interested in avoiding this problem, here's my approach (Rhino Lining) - now I have to take a look at the underside...
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Old 06-23-2006, 04:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VArova87
ok, so let me get this straight...those recovery point are mounted on a stock bumper? and if so, does "revamped" mean you re-inforced it? just curious, because i love that idea and would really like to do something like that. so pretty much what im asking: is the front stock bumper strong enough to use for recovery, or should I find a way to beef up the mounts to the frame?
Series and Defender models usually have recovery points attached to the front bumper and on the rear cross member.

The stock discover bumper mounts in the same so should be fine.

However the stock metal is pretty crap really so you'll need to plate it at the back to spread the load and stop the hook literally pulling thru the bumper.

Also to make it stronger for snatch recovery I've mounted the hooks on the front bumper directly infront of the mounting points (which happen to be the chassis rails).

The front bumper is attached via 4 bolts per chassis rail. I have replaced these with high tensile ones so they will withstand the stresses.

The rear bumper is slightly different. Still the same crappy metal, so it will need a strengthening plate adding and maybe a bar or angle iron to prevent it bowing.

The rear bumper is also only attached with 2 bolts, one per side. So it won't be strong enough on it's own.

In the middle directly under the bumper (about an inch or so) is the rear cross member, this is where the top of the drop plate bolts onto. I'm going to fab a bracket to attach the bumper to this to add strength.

Also if you have a drop plate it normally has arm which run back to the chassis rails either side of the fuel tank. I'm going to modify these and attachment them to the under side of the bumper also. All with high tensile bolts. This should prove more than adaquate for recovery purposes and more.

You can see the rear cross member and one of the lower arms attached to the chassis rail.

I'll post more pics as I get them.
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Mods:Allisport LARGE FMIC | Allisport Tuned | Simex Jungle Trekker II 33.11.50R15 Tyres | 15x8 8 Spokes | Heavy Duty Uprated Suspension (shocks & springs) | Wheel arch Flares | 1" Wheel Spacers | Custom Straight Thru Exhaust | Custom Trimmed Front bumper with twin NATO Hooks | Custom Rear Bumper with single Large NATO Hook 360˚ Swival | Front Light Guards | Custom Aluminium Rear Floor | Bonnet Straps | 100w Spot Lights | Upgraded Headlights

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Old 06-23-2006, 04:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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thanks for the info!

now my next question, where can I get those stronger bolts, and what kind of backing do I need to put on? should I back the whole thing, or just fab a piece to spread the force out a little bit around the mounting point? i think ill try to mount the recovery points as close to the stock mounting points as possible for more strength...

how thick and what type of metal should do the trick for re-inforcement?
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