Before I order... - Land Rovers Only

01001010 · 09-16-2006, 04:41 PM

Something in my rear passenger side window mechanism has broken. Its free to slide up and down with my hand. When I press down on the switch, I hear the motor working, but nothing happens and all that can be heard is loud clicking.

My guess is the Window Actuator...

Can anyone confirm please?

Disco Mike · 09-16-2006, 05:05 PM

Your broke your window regulator, check out the prices on Rover Connection, they have them at the right price.
Mike

01001010 · 09-16-2006, 05:31 PM

Thank you Mike for always sharing your knowledge!

texasrover · 09-18-2006, 09:24 PM

Yep... Mike is right.

My guess is if you take the panel off you can monkey with the lift arm a little to get it back in position to reseat the arm into the railing... this way the window will at least stay up...

It is a little difficult if you already ran the regulator to the full up position... the gears will over reach and you have to play with the arm a little to align the teeth of the gears to get the arm to lower...

if you look at that arm there should be "wheel" (lack of a better term) that snaps on to the male component of the reg arm. Mine broke on the psgr and driver side rear windows. I have read where some people have made due with some small parts from Home Depot... you have to be creative or just buy a new one.

Dont tape the window up... just take the panel off and reseat the arm into the track... until you can get it fixed.

My money is you can have the panel off in about 5 minutes or less.

Good luck.

01001010 · 09-19-2006, 06:36 AM

Texasm thank you very much for that tid bit! I actual DO that the window taped up and its in the pain in the arse! no tape can stand up to South FLA Heat/Humidity. I will try popping the panel off today and doing that!

Thanks Again!

01001010 · 09-25-2006, 08:35 AM

Got off my lazy butt this weekend and discovered what the culprit was! A broken plastic wheel which goes on the window rail. The regulator had come loose of the window. Since I tried to mount the bare metal wheel on atleast to keep the window from sliding down, I found myself having the need to have functional window controls. Did some more research and found that a bad sodering point on the Window Lift ECU was bad. Took that out, resodered it, and what do you know....funtional window controls!!! Heading over to RoversLand today to get me a little wheel for the rail.

PS. It's good to have tools! I realized this when I resodered the point on the ECU panel...i thought to myself "how many people can actually do this stuff at home?" So guys, if you're in Miami, and need help with a repair or an installation, my home is open to all Landy Enthusiasts!

RoverJoe · 09-25-2006, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 01001010

So guys, if you're in Miami, and need help with a repair or an installation, my home is open to all Landy Enthusiasts!

That is nicest think I have heard today. Glad you got your truck sorted out...

01001010 · 09-25-2006, 09:47 AM

Thanks Joe

01001010 · 10-01-2006, 02:40 PM

Well guys... Window problem completely taken care of. My dad picked up a mini lathe at a swap meet a few weeks back, he rebuilt it and last night I put it to work. Instead of buying something similar to the broken rail-wheel or fabbing one up of shims like I planned on doing...I MADE the wheel!..hehe

I made two...the first out of aluminum. This would did not work well since I couldn't work it onto the stub on the tip of the regulator arm. Also, that same stub has a lip on it 2mm larger than the diameter of the stub itself.

The second one I made out of teflon which was more hand-file-friendly. I realized I couldnt work this one onto the stub either...err!..lol So I released the rivet that holds the stub onto the regulator arm tip, slipped the stub through the wheel and riveted the stub back in place with the flage of the wheel facing the regualtor arm. I packed the rail, wheel and the teeth on the regulartor with grease. While I was in there, I smeared all electrical connections with dielectric grease.

Below is the picture of the first wheel...not bad for a first timer

So that you get an idea of how big the wheel is...the hole in the middle is 12mm...a little bigger than the hole on a pencil sharpener.

FlyWheel · 10-01-2006, 08:37 PM

Good Job JC! My Brother-in-Law is an air frame engineer.....he is the only other person I see handcrafting those little neat items for his Bimmer. Its great to be able to fab that stuff.
Most times your fab will surpass the factory specs!

01001010 · 10-01-2006, 08:46 PM

HAHA...yeah man! I was telling my dad that we would be unstoppable if we both learned how to weld properly...he hasn't touched a welder in YEARS and I only tacked new exhaust pipes in place on Penelope (my old 65 Stang). It is great to have the ability to do all sort of stuff. I'm greatful for every last tool in that shop. My dad always surprises me too. Sometimes I'll need some specialty tool...he'll go to the shop, open up some old dusty bin and BAM!..he'll have it!

09-16-2006, 04:41 PM	#1 (permalink)
01001010 Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Lawrenceville, GA Posts: 4,543 Gallery: 15	Before I order... Something in my rear passenger side window mechanism has broken. Its free to slide up and down with my hand. When I press down on the switch, I hear the motor working, but nothing happens and all that can be heard is loud clicking. My guess is the Window Actuator... Can anyone confirm please? __________________ JC... 1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin - gone =( 1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks 1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna

09-16-2006, 05:31 PM	#3 (permalink)
01001010 Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Lawrenceville, GA Posts: 4,543 Gallery: 15	Thank you Mike for always sharing your knowledge! __________________ JC... 1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin - gone =( 1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks 1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna

09-18-2006, 09:24 PM	#4 (permalink)
texasrover Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ft. Worth, Texas Posts: 490 Gallery: 0	Yep... Mike is right. My guess is if you take the panel off you can monkey with the lift arm a little to get it back in position to reseat the arm into the railing... this way the window will at least stay up... It is a little difficult if you already ran the regulator to the full up position... the gears will over reach and you have to play with the arm a little to align the teeth of the gears to get the arm to lower... if you look at that arm there should be "wheel" (lack of a better term) that snaps on to the male component of the reg arm. Mine broke on the psgr and driver side rear windows. I have read where some people have made due with some small parts from Home Depot... you have to be creative or just buy a new one. Dont tape the window up... just take the panel off and reseat the arm into the track... until you can get it fixed. My money is you can have the panel off in about 5 minutes or less. Good luck. __________________ That is not a leak! That is undercarriage rust inhibitor. 98 Discovery

09-19-2006, 06:36 AM	#5 (permalink)
01001010 Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Lawrenceville, GA Posts: 4,543 Gallery: 15	Texasm thank you very much for that tid bit! I actual DO that the window taped up and its in the pain in the arse! no tape can stand up to South FLA Heat/Humidity. I will try popping the panel off today and doing that! Thanks Again! __________________ JC... 1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin - gone =( 1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks 1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna

09-25-2006, 08:35 AM	#6 (permalink)
01001010 Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Lawrenceville, GA Posts: 4,543 Gallery: 15	Got off my lazy butt this weekend and discovered what the culprit was! A broken plastic wheel which goes on the window rail. The regulator had come loose of the window. Since I tried to mount the bare metal wheel on atleast to keep the window from sliding down, I found myself having the need to have functional window controls. Did some more research and found that a bad sodering point on the Window Lift ECU was bad. Took that out, resodered it, and what do you know....funtional window controls!!! Heading over to RoversLand today to get me a little wheel for the rail. PS. It's good to have tools! I realized this when I resodered the point on the ECU panel...i thought to myself "how many people can actually do this stuff at home?" So guys, if you're in Miami, and need help with a repair or an installation, my home is open to all Landy Enthusiasts! __________________ JC... 1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin - gone =( 1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks 1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna Last edited by 01001010 : 10-01-2006 at 02:45 PM.

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09-16-2006, 05:05 PM	#2 (permalink)
Disco Mike Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 5,777 Gallery: 0	Your broke your window regulator, check out the prices on Rover Connection, they have them at the right price. Mike

09-25-2006, 09:47 AM	#8 (permalink)
01001010 Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Lawrenceville, GA Posts: 4,543 Gallery: 15	Thanks Joe __________________ JC... 1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin - gone =( 1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks 1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna

10-01-2006, 02:40 PM	#9 (permalink)
01001010 Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Lawrenceville, GA Posts: 4,543 Gallery: 15	Well guys... Window problem completely taken care of. My dad picked up a mini lathe at a swap meet a few weeks back, he rebuilt it and last night I put it to work. Instead of buying something similar to the broken rail-wheel or fabbing one up of shims like I planned on doing...I MADE the wheel!..hehe I made two...the first out of aluminum. This would did not work well since I couldn't work it onto the stub on the tip of the regulator arm. Also, that same stub has a lip on it 2mm larger than the diameter of the stub itself. The second one I made out of teflon which was more hand-file-friendly. I realized I couldnt work this one onto the stub either...err!..lol So I released the rivet that holds the stub onto the regulator arm tip, slipped the stub through the wheel and riveted the stub back in place with the flage of the wheel facing the regualtor arm. I packed the rail, wheel and the teeth on the regulartor with grease. While I was in there, I smeared all electrical connections with dielectric grease. Below is the picture of the first wheel...not bad for a first timer So that you get an idea of how big the wheel is...the hole in the middle is 12mm...a little bigger than the hole on a pencil sharpener. Attached Thumbnails __________________ JC... 1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin - gone =( 1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks 1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna

10-01-2006, 08:37 PM	#10 (permalink)
FlyWheel Proud to be an Infidel Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Fort Lauderdale Posts: 1,136 Gallery: 0	Good Job JC! My Brother-in-Law is an air frame engineer.....he is the only other person I see handcrafting those little neat items for his Bimmer. Its great to be able to fab that stuff. Most times your fab will surpass the factory specs! __________________ 2001 Disco SE7 .......eventually they will run out of suicide bombers.....

10-01-2006, 08:46 PM	#11 (permalink)
01001010 Moderator Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Lawrenceville, GA Posts: 4,543 Gallery: 15	HAHA...yeah man! I was telling my dad that we would be unstoppable if we both learned how to weld properly...he hasn't touched a welder in YEARS and I only tacked new exhaust pipes in place on Penelope (my old 65 Stang). It is great to have the ability to do all sort of stuff. I'm greatful for every last tool in that shop. My dad always surprises me too. Sometimes I'll need some specialty tool...he'll go to the shop, open up some old dusty bin and BAM!..he'll have it! __________________ JC... 1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin - gone =( 1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks 1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna

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