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Old 05-02-2006, 12:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default body or suspension lift?

OK I was thinking of doing a 3" suspension lift from RTE but was looking on DAP-INC's website and saw a 2.5" body lift. In the add it states that doing a body lift is safer (as far as center of gravity). Is this a true statement or a half true statement?

Any advise guys (and gals)


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Old 05-02-2006, 01:30 PM   #2 (permalink)
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It does keep the centre of gravity low when doing a body lift. I wouldn't do it on a stock suspended vehicle though- the intention is to do a body lift on a suspension lifted truck (say 2"-3") instead of doing a 4"-6" suspension lift.
It can be done without a lifted suspension, but to make it more capable off road you really should run better springs and shocks than stock. If the point is just to put some big rubber under it- either way is fine.
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Old 05-02-2006, 01:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The purpose of the lift is functional as well as putting bigger meats under the wheel wells. I am wondering with some fender trimming how big of a tire can I fit with a 2" lift versus a 3" lift. any experience on this one lifted LR's?

I went through 3 different set ups on the jeep I had before my LR and do not want to go through that many changes. Would rather ask around and do it once with minor tweeking I am sure.


Note: I will be used on everytype of terrain so need not be set up for one type.


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Old 05-02-2006, 01:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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3" can bring on some other issues- if it's mainly a trail rig, I'd go as much as 3 but not over because off-camber stuff with a tall lift can be tippy.
2" is the best for a dual-purpose or mostly street-driven truck. You don't have to be tall, you mainly need flex.
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Old 05-02-2006, 01:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I agree with Steve...go for the 2" or 2.5" and learn how to use your truck to it's full capacity while expanding your offroad knowledge. I have seen guys with a 2" lift and less then 33" tires out perform more lifted trucks with bigger tires....just get out there and wheel with people that know more than you do, ask questions, soak it all in.
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Old 05-03-2006, 05:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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IMO stay clear of the body lift, if you're going to do it do it properly.

Trimming and wheel arch flares should be ok for 33.11.50 tyres (see sig) they do rub but only at full articulation an on the inside of the wheel wells not on the arches.

A 2" lift will work well along with dislocation cones.
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Old 05-03-2006, 07:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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there's nothing 'improper' about a body lift, as long as you do it well. The "longer bolts and hockey puck" lifts are a disaster waiting to happen though. What I don't like about body lifts is the gaps on the bumpers-
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Old 05-03-2006, 09:40 AM   #8 (permalink)
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IMHO............. Stay away from body lifts...... But that is me!!
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Again, I agree with Steve. If done properly, a body lift can be a good thing. Alot of the terrain out here in California is very rocky, therefore there is alot of stuffing of the tires. A corectly done body lift will allow for better articulation due to the allottment of stuffing. However, if you don't need to do a body lift, don't. IMHO, I like them for what they allow.
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Old 05-03-2006, 10:54 AM   #10 (permalink)
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One common problem on Rovers- especially Discos- is the rear shock tower is so close to the underside of the tub. One of the best ways to make a long travel suspension is to raise the tub to allow room for the upper shock mount to be moved farther up... then run a REALLY long shock. It allows huge drop but still allows it to stuff well. To do that requires a slight body lift or re-forming the rear floor of the tub. In some instances moving the body on the frame is a very good way to go. I don't think I'll be doing it on any of mine, but for other applications it works well.
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Old 05-03-2006, 11:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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This past weekend I wheeled with a bobbed '72 Rangie that had a SR lift - 5" I think - plus a 2" body lift, running 35's. It had no lockers. I was amazed at the ability of the rangie. It was able to do everything a fully locked D90 with 5" RTE lift and 35's could do. That extra 2" body lift allowed for extra articulation (due to stuffing).
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Old 05-05-2006, 07:07 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by natvboy
The purpose of the lift is functional as well as putting bigger meats under the wheel wells. I am wondering with some fender trimming how big of a tire can I fit with a 2" lift versus a 3" lift. any experience on this one lifted LR's?

I went through 3 different set ups on the jeep I had before my LR and do not want to go through that many changes. Would rather ask around and do it once with minor tweeking I am sure.


Note: I will be used on everytype of terrain so need not be set up for one type.


Robert
As for a tire size, you should be able to run 265/75/16's without any problem. You may have to readjust the steering stops to revent tire rub on the radius arms.
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Old 05-05-2006, 08:19 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Mike
As for a tire size, you should be able to run 265/75/16's without any problem. You may have to readjust the steering stops to revent tire rub on the radius arms.
Mike
Interestingly enough, I and a few others, decided not to adjust the steering stops when we went to 265's. Reason being was that even though the tires rubbed at full turn, slight rubbing while going 1mph on the trail really is no big deal and can mean a world of difference on a narrow trail with tight turns. You just have to learn the new turning radius of your truck and not let the tires rub during street driving.
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Old 05-05-2006, 09:04 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Two more advantages to a body lift:
1. The rear tire carrier can hold a larger diameter tire without hitting the bumper
2. Better clearance for rock sliders
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Old 05-05-2006, 09:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
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thanks for all the info guys. I think I will forgo the body lift and trim up the fenders. Have some old TJ flares from my past rig I might try to mount up

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