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Old 01-09-2009, 04:17 AM   #16 (permalink)
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You Don't need brakes, Just wait till you hit a tree.... Job Done
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Old 01-09-2009, 08:59 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Were you using a 6pt socket? The caliper bolts are 12pt. A 6pt socket will definitely round them off.
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Old 01-11-2009, 03:49 AM   #18 (permalink)
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It was probly a six. The head was so warped out of shape to begin with it might as well have been a square. I think some one had attempted this before me( I've only had the truck for 3 months.) The brakes work great, the leak really isnt that bad. I didnt realize there was a leak until I lost all the pressure from the brake pedal...and sure enough, the master cylinder reservoir was empty. I put more fluid in and bled them. I've been checking the fluid since then and havent noticed a difference. In the mean time, I'm leaking oil from the valve covers, the front of the block, the oil pan gasket, pretty much all the power steering hoses are cracked, power steering fluid is leaking from under the reservoir and also the pump, the rear differential is leaking oil, somebody attempted to weld a glasspack on by there self and the welds SUCK so the exhaust is leaking all over the place, the transmission cooler hoses are weathered to hell...and leaking, and my serpentine belt is nearing its end. So...who wants to come help? oh...and the steering linkage is all bent up. kjsdflhsg[jabdf'gldsrbhflgnaldfg'dfgasdfa;slghk ;
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:45 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Be sure to get the proper bolts for it then.
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
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74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
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Old 01-11-2009, 08:39 AM   #20 (permalink)
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wow I think you actually have more leaks than I do...
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:47 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snowboardr_680 View Post
ill take that bet!
I was turning them in the correct direction. They're pretty much rounded off now after 3 days of trying. I bled the brakes, and they're working fine. I'll just have to keep an eye on the brake fluid because of the leaky caliper. Its not gushing out or anything. When summer comes around I think I'll try and grind the bolt head into a different shape and use a vice grips. Either that or hammer on a size smaller socket. Its minnesota. I dont have a heated garage. Just gonna have to watch the fluid!
You may want to hold off on the grinding, that can sometimes make things worse. Hold on to this bolt extractor link for spring, Sears also sells many of these too.
IRWIN Screw & Bolt Extractors
Also, impact guns and impact hammers can help to break the rust bond preventing you from getting the bolt out.

Being from Ohio, I feel your pain with the rust man.. good luck!
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Old 01-28-2009, 10:10 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Call me, alloy weld & repair north metro I 94 I will remove your bolts.
This is PRO BONO glad to help VICTOR. maple grove. Call the directory

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Old 01-28-2009, 06:23 PM   #23 (permalink)
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You cannot beat Sam3's offer. Badger1's link works fine if you copy and paste it at the top of the screen. It takes you to Sears' page. I have not used the Gatorgrip but do see a set of "rounded bolt removers" at $30 for a set and that sounds like a deal. Except I do not remember if Land Rover is SAE or metric; should know. Or Whitworth (like my Triumph bike)?

Where were all these tools when I was a kid and needed them?
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