Brake pads - Land Rovers Only

me.guevara · 04-29-2006, 06:14 PM

Ok, so I guess this is as much a rant as a consultation:

So I took the Beast into the shop this week to have some stuff done that I can´t do:

Install Warn recovery hooks - now I have two solid front recovery points! They welded those puppies right to the chassis - seems alright to me, what do you guys think?
Top off fluids in diffs, tc and check CV joints (grease)
Bend the exhaust pipe a bit as it was making contact with the chassis
Rotate the tires (I could do that, but it would look more like a chinese firedrill than routine maintenance) - labor is inexpensive here.
While the tires were off, check the brake pads (notice I wrote¨"check")

As you can imagine by now, they found that the brake pads were due for a change (I was expecting that), and decided to change them (I was expecting at least a phone call for my approval - didn't happen). Because they only had my tacit approval, they decided that OEM pads are too expensive (US$100/pair), so they slapped some "new" friction material on the old pad backing and slid them back into the calipers ($30 parts, $20 labor). I'm planning on replacing both rotors and pads for some HD ones this summer, so the "homemade" setup only has to last a couple of months. All in all, an ok deal - I wasn't happy about it, but, it was ok.

This morning we decided to go out to the country, enjoy our fall weather and maybe do some swimming in one of our many rivers (I enjoy stepping in the quicksand, to the chagrin of everyone else - but I digress).

So I top off the fuel tank and head to the grocery store for some snacks. Taking off from a stop light, I hear this horrible grinding noise coming from beneath the Beast, but it gets better quickly and I power through the intersection. I stopped to check for anything obvious - all clear.

Start up again, no noise, perhaps an occasional grinding that seems to come from the right rear wheel. I decide to give it a closer look at the supermarket: the outboard brake pad had slipped through the caliper and is grinding itseld against the hub. There's a 1/4" groove, about 1/32" deep in the hub

. Trip cancelled, on the way home grab some grub, tear off the wheel and scope out the damage.

I was able to pull both pads out and check them, confirming my earlier finding.

As I am not familiar with OEM pads, I don't know how much they have changed them in the remanufacturing process, but both of them seem to be able to slip straight through the calipers and contact the hub (fortunately only one of them did that).

There are two split pins and springs that keep the pads from popping out, but what normally keeps the pads from slipping through to the hub?

Am I looking at a safety issue with the scoring on my hub? I know the Beast is grounded until I can fix this, but I'mn planning on driving it back to the mech on Tuesday (Monday is Labor Day here)...

TIA - gotta go get a beer...

Peace,

Disco Mike · 04-29-2006, 06:27 PM

You are in a bit of a problem.
Is it possible for you to order from the states and have items shipped directly to you? If so I would suggest you do so and I would be glad to get you a couple of web sites to order from.
Mike

smileyq · 04-29-2006, 06:42 PM

Thats a real bummer man. Sorry that had to happen to you. You might want to check out DAP inc. because they have some great deals on brake kits for around $299.99 for everything.

me.guevara · 04-30-2006, 05:36 AM

I'll check out the different sites' offers. I'm looking to upgrade to the kevlar pads / DBA rotors combination.

I've noticed that several folk recommend doing the wheel bearings while the rotors are off.

And I know that I should do a brake bleed while I'm at it.

Anything else while I´m in the wheel wells? Any key tips?

Thanks guys!

Disco Mike · 04-30-2006, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by me.guevara

I'll check out the different sites' offers. I'm looking to upgrade to the kevlar pads / DBA rotors combination.

I've noticed that several folk recommend doing the wheel bearings while the rotors are off.

And I know that I should do a brake bleed while I'm at it.

Anything else while I´m in the wheel wells? Any key tips?

Thanks guys!

Here is the web site for DAP. E-mail Steve and ask him about his DBA brake package, he has the best price around I believe.
If you do much water crossings, I would suggest you change your diff oil instead of topping them off.
Good luck,
Mike

me.guevara · 04-30-2006, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Disco Mike

Here is the web site for DAP. E-mail Steve and ask him about his DBA brake package, he has the best price around I believe.
If you do much water crossings, I would suggest you change your diff oil instead of topping them off.
Good luck,
Mike

Great, thanks! I've been looking around and I do believe you're right - DAP has a very good deal, especially because they include everything you need to get the job done (in addition to a very competitive price). Now all I have to do is coordinate with my folk travelling from the US to Bolivia (freight is way too expensive!)...

I don't do a whole lot of water crossings, but I nonetheless want to change the diff oils - especially because I don't believe that it has ever been changed. I need the right wrench for the job and to find a reliable source of lubricants (in a lot of places, much of it gets diluted, especially with used fluids).

Looking at pads on the internet, I notice that they have holes that the split pins go through that keep them in place. The pads on the Beast now have no holes, so they're free to slide all over the place!

I need some muscle relaxants

Cheers,

Disco Mike · 04-30-2006, 08:58 AM

Usually a 1/2 socket wrench will work well on the diff drain plugs if your have the plugs with the 4 sided square insert. Any 80W or 90W oil will work fine and yes, sounds like you have the wrong brake pad.
Mike

pavel · 04-30-2006, 10:38 PM

me.guevara: sorry to hear of your plight but I guess you've learned your lesson with rebuilt brake pads/shoes... Recently I was rebuilding the brakes on a Dana 60 axle and wanted relined brake shoes. Was told that fewer and fewer shops will do this kind of work for liability reasons. In the end got a reputable set from back east that turned out to be brand new but still cheap ($30 and no core charge). When it comes to brakes, steering, suspension, wait if you have to but buy only quality components.
I don't understand where the holes in your rear pads went if the "shop" only replaced the friction material.... Sounds more like they gave you completely wrong pads. Who are these guys anyway!!? Is there noone else available for you to patronize?

me.guevara · 05-01-2006, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pavel

me.guevara: sorry to hear of your plight but I guess you've learned your lesson with rebuilt brake pads/shoes... Recently I was rebuilding the brakes on a Dana 60 axle and wanted relined brake shoes. Was told that fewer and fewer shops will do this kind of work for liability reasons. In the end got a reputable set from back east that turned out to be brand new but still cheap ($30 and no core charge). When it comes to brakes, steering, suspension, wait if you have to but buy only quality components.
I don't understand where the holes in your rear pads went if the "shop" only replaced the friction material.... Sounds more like they gave you completely wrong pads. Who are these guys anyway!!? Is there noone else available for you to patronize?

I totally agree with you, especially on the safety components. Unfortunatelly, the mech self-motivated on the pad reman (he didn't call me to check if that's what I wanted, and I just noticed that they'd done it improperly. As soon as I can, I'm going for DBA rotors and kevlar pads - I'll change them myself!

I hear you on changing shops, but I've already changed 3 times - there aren't that many high-end shops here (Santa Cruz has about 1.5 mm inhabitants in a country -Bolivia- of 9 mm), I just don't have that many options.

That's exactly the reason that brought me to LRO in the first place...

Thanks for the moral support.

Funrover · 05-01-2006, 07:21 AM

Dude that sucks....... How is everything going now?

me.guevara · 05-01-2006, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Funrover

Dude that sucks....... How is everything going now?

Because the pads have no holes at the top to hold them, they slip down unto the disk - it takes me longer to remove the wheel and reseat the pads that it does for them to become unseated.

Today is a holiday here (Labor Day), so I have to wait until tomorrow to have a "civilized" chat with the mech - a refund for parts and labor is only the starting point...

Funrover · 05-01-2006, 07:38 AM

Good luck man... I'd help you if I could.....

me.guevara · 05-01-2006, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Funrover

Good luck man... I'd help you if I could.....

Thanks Funrover.

A quick question on the disk removal and replacement. I have over a month before my replacement parts get here.

The procedure as set forth in the manual is pretty straight forward, but I've read in a couple of places that it's nowhere near as easy - aside from soaking the halfshaft bolts with WD-40, what else can I do now to make the job easier?

Cheers,

Funrover · 05-01-2006, 11:48 AM

I use PB blaster....works better for me...... Just have all parts there and ready..it's straight foward...... have someone to help bleed the brakes......