Caster correction - Land Rovers Only

nfrey2 · 01-09-2006, 05:57 PM

Has anybody tried this? My friend has 97 D1, he just bought the 5" RTE springs, brake lines, and OME shocks. If he puts it on hes is goin to be at roughly 2 degrees postive camber in the front. No good. So were think of pulling the swivel balls off and the flange were they bolt to the axle housing, plug and weld the 8 factory holes and put it on the mill and drill new holes at a 4 degree offset in order to rotate the caster back to -2. We would then have to machine welds flat on the flange face but it doesnt seem to hard if you have the right tools.

What does RTE do fro theirs?

p76rangie · 01-16-2006, 04:41 AM

What you suggest is the best way to fix it. Yes, it has been done before and work well.

Ian

Hank · 01-16-2006, 05:33 AM

Samething RTE does....He only charges 300.00. You almost can't do it for that, even if you had the mill. But, you will still want the RTE front links designed for the 5" lift and castor correction. (not his regular 5" lift links)

p76rangie · 01-17-2006, 12:23 AM

Front arms tilt the whole axle housing back. Therefore they lower the drive flange to the diff, making it closer to the ground and increasing the angle on the unis. Twisting it back also lowers track rods and other bits. Much better off going for the swivels.

Ian

nfrey2 · 01-17-2006, 09:48 PM

One thing i was trying to figure out was if the king pin inclination angle is rotated back x amount of degrees in relation to a vertical axis created by the flange mounting holes, to give it the static castor.
If so then it would be feasible to switch the swivel balls to opposite sides then mount them as to give yourself positive castor then rotate them back then drill the new mounting holes. this would allow you to drill into fresh metal and not have to worry about plugging holes. Also i measured the center distance between each hole and it is 18.5 degrees and about 10.5 is the min rotation to allow metal to fully encompass a newly drilled hole.
Another route we are looking at is to fab up some relocated and dropped radius arm frame mounts. solves everything but the driveshaft angles, but would be alot easir purely from a fab point. We are poor college students so time, tools, and steel is what we have, just not money.

what ever we end up doingto his d1 i will be doing to my 91 RRC as well, considering i will have the rest of his old 4" lift on mine.

01-09-2006, 05:57 PM	#1 (permalink)
nfrey2 I drink too much Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 309 Gallery: 0	Caster correction Has anybody tried this? My friend has 97 D1, he just bought the 5" RTE springs, brake lines, and OME shocks. If he puts it on hes is goin to be at roughly 2 degrees postive camber in the front. No good. So were think of pulling the swivel balls off and the flange were they bolt to the axle housing, plug and weld the 8 factory holes and put it on the mill and drill new holes at a 4 degree offset in order to rotate the caster back to -2. We would then have to machine welds flat on the flange face but it doesnt seem to hard if you have the right tools. What does RTE do fro theirs? __________________ Nic 91 RRC Hunter Edition "The Warthog" Made a bunch of stuff fer it. USF Racing

01-17-2006, 09:48 PM	#5 (permalink)
nfrey2 I drink too much Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 309 Gallery: 0	One thing i was trying to figure out was if the king pin inclination angle is rotated back x amount of degrees in relation to a vertical axis created by the flange mounting holes, to give it the static castor. If so then it would be feasible to switch the swivel balls to opposite sides then mount them as to give yourself positive castor then rotate them back then drill the new mounting holes. this would allow you to drill into fresh metal and not have to worry about plugging holes. Also i measured the center distance between each hole and it is 18.5 degrees and about 10.5 is the min rotation to allow metal to fully encompass a newly drilled hole. Another route we are looking at is to fab up some relocated and dropped radius arm frame mounts. solves everything but the driveshaft angles, but would be alot easir purely from a fab point. We are poor college students so time, tools, and steel is what we have, just not money. what ever we end up doingto his d1 i will be doing to my 91 RRC as well, considering i will have the rest of his old 4" lift on mine. __________________ Nic 91 RRC Hunter Edition "The Warthog" Made a bunch of stuff fer it. USF Racing

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01-16-2006, 04:41 AM	#2 (permalink)
p76rangie Ian Matthews Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 1,960 Gallery: 0	What you suggest is the best way to fix it. Yes, it has been done before and work well. Ian

01-16-2006, 05:33 AM	#3 (permalink)
Hank Banned Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: VA Posts: 914 Gallery: 0	Samething RTE does....He only charges 300.00. You almost can't do it for that, even if you had the mill. But, you will still want the RTE front links designed for the 5" lift and castor correction. (not his regular 5" lift links)

01-17-2006, 12:23 AM	#4 (permalink)
p76rangie Ian Matthews Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 1,960 Gallery: 0	Front arms tilt the whole axle housing back. Therefore they lower the drive flange to the diff, making it closer to the ground and increasing the angle on the unis. Twisting it back also lowers track rods and other bits. Much better off going for the swivels. Ian

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