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Old 09-09-2005, 06:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation Step-by-Step CV Joint Replacement

I'll have a picture doctumentary and step by step instructions on how to change a CV Joint on a D1 by 11 tonight. Stay tuned for that
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1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin
1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks

1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna

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Old 09-09-2005, 09:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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anxiously waiting... best of luck to you
take care
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Old 09-09-2005, 10:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Dent, I already made the replacement...im just taking a while to post pictures because I'm at work now...and I still need to resize them.... The replacement went GREAT!! some inconviniences here and there but nothing major. Truck RUNS, and most importantly, TURNS GREAT!!! I owe it all you you guys for guiding me through and giving pointers! As a matter a fact, there was one moment, where I deviated from what you guys told me to do, and went with what the manual said, and that turned out to be a pain (refilling the swivel with the grease). Thanks Again GUYS!!!
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1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin
1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks

1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna
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Old 09-09-2005, 08:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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SOrry for the delay guys, the upload is happening as I speak...
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1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin
1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks

1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna
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Old 09-10-2005, 12:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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This is the procedure taken from the Land Rover Workshop Manual and several members of two seperate boards to change a Constant Velocity Joint on a 1996 Discovery. The job isn't a very difficult one, but unless you dont have the tools, time and patience for the job, should not be attempted.

We begin as any repair to the drivetrain would, by removing the tire of the specific side that will be worked on. That in itself, as we all know, can take a single person up to 10 minutes to manually remove if the lugs were previously placed using an impact gun. You then want to pry the rubber cap from the flange, remove the circlip and shim that is located at the very tip of the stub alxe...



One could, and should remove the caliper first after removing the tires, but I was so excited I wanted to gut that thing quickly. To remove the caliper you will need a 13mm 12 point socket/wrench (you dont have much space to turn the wrench, so a sucket with an extension would definately get the job done quickly)...

The top bolt...




The bottom bolt...




Now you can remove the flange. You'll need the 2&1/16th socket to remove the lock nut, and second nut (refered to as a shim in the manual). In my case, both of my nuts were DANGEROUSLY loose!!!(<should be an easy one for ya Griff). So loose I was able to remove them with my hand! You'll also need to pull back/up the flaps(2) on the middle shim that have been folded down...




After removing the shims and lock nuts, give the hub/rotor a little tug and the outter bearing will come loose. After pulling the bearing off, you can now pull on the hub/rotor assembly and it will come off freely. Now you're almost ready to pull out the CV. But first, make sure that you place a pan of some sort under the swivel if you havent already drained it. Once the first bolt is removed, the oil will drain out of it...(oil would have been used on pre-97 discos...i think...if you dont have a drain plug on the knuckle, you're swivel is, or should be filled with grease)...




After you've removed all six bolts, and the mud guard, you are now ready to pull out the stub axle, cv, and the axle. ...




When I was removing the bolts, I noticed only a few drops of oil come out. When I finally removed the CV, I found the swivel to be completely dried out, relatively speaking. I also noticed the oil that was left was contaminated by water (shown circled), and a coolant-looking liquid (pointed out by the small arrow). Make sure that the oil seal on the knuckle is removed (pointed out by the red arrow)...




After blasting the crap out of the remaining oil in the CV with compressed air, and spraying it with WD40, you will now need to remove the Stub Axle from the CV. I did it the way a neanderthal would have done it. I put the CV in a straight position, held on to the opposite end of the axle, and lightly banged it against the floor of the shop a couple of times. When that came off, I realized that the stub-axle bearing (actually a roller bearing) was completely damaged. The rollers are now spread out all over the floor of my shop. I'll tell you the story on that later. This meant I had to replace the bearing, and while I was at it, I replaced the oil seal within the stub axle (which had come in the CV replacement kit I bought from AB)...




Place the axle and CV on a soft grip vise. If you dont have one, I used AC insulation tubes and wraped it around the axle to put it in my vise. If you dont mind smacking your already damaged CV, you can use a normal hammer, but if you're going to have that CV rebuilt, then use a rubber mallot to hit the edges of the race (pointed out by the arrows) to take it off the axle...




Before placing the new CV on the axle, make sure to replace your circlip as well. I didnt know I had one until I looked on the upper flap of the box the CV came in, so dont throw your boxes away until you are COMPLETELY done with your rebuild because you'll never know whats in there. Place the ring, and circlip on the axle... (notice the insulation tube)...




Take your new CV...



and while holding it in one hand, compress the circlip a bit and slip the CV on the axle until the very edges of the race hold the circlip compressed in place. Take a rubber mallot and lightly tap the CV into place. You'll hear the click of the circlip opening again. Give the CV a tug to make sure it won't come off. You now have your new CV on the axle...




Now head back to the truck and slide that baby in there. Dont forget to place your seal on the stub axle and PLEASE dont forget to put your mud guard on (I did, after I had torqued the bolts to spec). You'll need Loctite 270 & 520. I went looking for those but only found color designations, blue and red. The stub axle bolts use Red, which is the High strenght compound. Blue is used on all the other bolts, including the Caliper bolts...

The mudguard is pointed out by the arrow...





Reassembly is a reverse of the above steps and should now be a P.O.C. Then place your drain plug on the knuckle tight, and remove the fill plug. If you're using the One Shot grease, I would put some INTO the CV first. Also, I put the grease into a bottle with an adjustable tip, as the packaging it comes in will make a mess of things while refilling, which will take FOREVER, without creating a mess (RoverX, I think that beat your Run-on sentence from another post)

Vuala!!! You have now replaced your CV joint and dirtied the crap out of yourself and your wheel with your dirty gloves!!!...



Now go test it out!!!
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1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin
1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks

1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna

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Old 09-10-2005, 01:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Last but not least, make sure you have an assistant who isn't going to fall asleep on the job....





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1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin
1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks

1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna
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Old 09-10-2005, 01:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I wont say when, since I was late for this post, but I'll post a screen shot of two pages from the manual showing what seals you'll be needing for a simple CV replacement...obviously, you'll need ALL the seals if your going to do the whole shibang and rebuild the Swivel as well. I'll also post a list of the tools I used and the symptoms for a bad cv, and for a bad CV thats been driven on for WAY too long.
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1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin
1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks

1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna
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Old 09-10-2005, 01:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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A big thanks to those members who provided tips and replied on my previous CV Joint thread! Thanks guys!
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1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin
1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks

1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna
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Old 09-11-2005, 01:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That's pretty awesome. Good job.
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Old 09-11-2005, 02:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Great job! Looks outstanding! Cute lil' baby!
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Old 09-11-2005, 03:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Well done Binary.
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Old 09-12-2005, 08:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Great info..I'll be waiting for the rest of the info.
The little one will likely be driving a 2020 Disco I'll bet.
Thanks

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Old 10-09-2005, 09:17 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Quick Update

while refilling the swivel with the grease... If you're working on the driver's side swivel like I was, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left..this will reveal the cavity within the knuckle, making the job of getting the One Shot into the swivel A LOT easier and A LOT faster.
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1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin
1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks

1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna
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Old 10-10-2005, 05:55 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Great Post

JC,

How much did the job run you total $$$? Also, what was your total time for the job?

I have a sneaking suspicion that I may need to replace mine as well.

Got some free time this weekend???
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Old 10-10-2005, 06:15 AM   #15 (permalink)
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i got my kit on sale for 200 , then 12 for the One Shot and those Loctite things are EXPENSIVE!...id guesstimate about $230


my friend...i'll make time, just say when ur ready and what you'll need
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1996 Discovery SE - The Blue Marlin
1965 Series IIa 109 RHD 2.25L Dsl - Wilks

1965 Series IIa 88' LHD 2.25L Petrol - Fionna
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