Disco II front drive shaft on lifted DI?

[natvboy]

Saw a front drive shaft for a DII on EBAY that stated some DI owners use the DII shaft since it has a cv style shaft if the DI is lifted. Is this true? Are there any modifitcations that need to be made?

Have to replace my front drive shaft after u-joint failure a couple of days ago and thought this might be a good swap if true

Thanks

[Disco Mike]

If the price is right and even more so, if it has already had the double cardon rebuilt using u-joints with grease fittings, then yes go for it. If it hasn't been rebuilt and you can get ity for about $100, then it is still a pretty good deal cause you can but 2 new u-joints for around $40 and have them installed for around $100.
Mike

[natvboy]

Can get it for 75 not rebuilt but it sounds like the way to go.

Thanks DISCO MIKE

[Disco Mike]

I'd go for it. Not knowning how it has been serviced, I would suggest replacing the 3 u-joints and also make sure to pull the plug for the slip shaft, install a grease fitting, lube the hell out of it and reinstall the plug.
Mike

[sideview]

This will work, however, it's not plug-and-play as Mike has indicated. On the transfer-case side of the drive-shaft, the flange has a different bolt pattern than the stock D1/RRC/D-90 drive-shaft. In order to fit this shaft, you must exchange your front transfer-case drive-flange with one from a D2/P38.

To do this, you will need a 30mm socket and a breaker-bar. Sometimes you may even need heat or a long pipe/extension to get leverage on the nyloc nut. It is recommended to re-place the nut once it's removed. A flange "kit" can be purchased from your dealer for about 170.00, or from Will Tillery for about 90.00. This includes the new D2 style drive-flange, steel washer, felt washer, nyloc nut, and new flange bolts.

Some places such as GBR or Tom Woods will sell you a "spacer" with a re-drilled bolt pattern to fit the shaft. But, this is bogus and a half-assed solution. The spacer goes between the shaft and the flange; not only does this compress your new shaft about .5", it adds 4-more bolts to the drive-shaft. This is not to mention it's not balanced. The spacer is not a horrible option, but the new D2/P38 style drive-flange is a MUCH better approach to adding the D2 shaft.

If you need to re-build the shaft, the Spicer U-joints are the "better" joints. The part number is 5-4x. But, good luck finding the Spicer joint anymore, it seem they're discontinued. Instead, look at the Neapco 1-0005. It too, like Spicer, is American made and has the grease zirk in the cap rather than in the middle of the joint. They run 15.00 at AutoZone and it's a "In Stock" item.

While you're re-building, you better do the Center Kit as well. That part number is Neapco 7-0081NG. They're just a few bucks (like, under 10.00)

The D2 shaft is a lot better than running a stock, single UJ shaft with a lift. But, depending on what you're going to do with your truck, you may look at a new shaft with at least a 1310 u-joint. The 1310, when compared to the 1300 found in Rovers, has a lot more beef. This is a standard UJ found on Toyota's and Jeep's. 1310 shafts can be purchased from GBR (6-states), or Tom Woods for about 375.00. Landrover Application But then you're back to that silly spacer.

[natvboy]

thanks SIDEVIEW I figured it wouldn't be that easy but seeing as how I need to replace my front shaft I might as well try to improve it while doing it. Sounds like the DII shaft would be an improvement with the double ujoint end.

[natvboy]

what is a center kit?

[Disco Mike]

I stand corrected, sorry about that.

As for the centering ball kit, this will also be needed as it is designed to be between the 2 new u-joints and keep them in proper alignment.
Mike

[antichrist]

Originally Posted by sideview

If you need to re-build the shaft, the Spicer U-joints are the "better" joints. The part number is 5-4x. But, good luck finding the Spicer joint anymore, it seem they're discontinued.

Actually the 5-4x is still available from Spicer, it's just not made by Spicer. They are farmed out so could be made by anyone, just depends on who they get the best deal from for the batch (I got this info from Spicer themselves).
I like the Neapco or Autozone (PDQ made by Neapco) u-joints better anyway for the DII DC since the zerk is on the end cap and so easier to get to.
I wouldn't get 1310 PDQ u-joints as they probably aren't made by Neapco.

The most important thing natvboy is to actually grease them every oil change. If you don't, you're better off with sealed u-joints.

[natvboy]

thanks for all the great info guys

[sideview]

Originally Posted by antichrist

Actually the 5-4x is still available from Spicer, it's just not made by Spicer. They are farmed out so could be made by anyone, just depends on who they get the best deal from for the batch (I got this info from Spicer themselves).

If you can find them, I'll buy 6 of them, I'm serious. Friend's been looking for almost 2 years now

[Capt. Ron]

That's some good info there sideview. Some info I saw on DWEB, someone made the change for the same reason as you. His mechanic recommended this; said it was an upgrade for the DII and stock on the Durango. The Durango (year of ?) uses a drive shaft compatible with the DII, with the 1310 u-joints. So maybe changing out the t-case front flange and installing the Durango shaft would give you something along the lines of GBR/Tom Woods quality for less. there was no follow-up.

[antichrist]

Originally Posted by sideview

If you can find them, I'll buy 6 of them, I'm serious. Friend's been looking for almost 2 years now

Why on earth would you want 6 u-joints of unkown mfg, for $25 or $30 a pop, when you can get Neapco for $15 each?

[natvboy]

Here is some info on the Neapco from Badger1 from my "Need Help!" post after having Neapco's installed. Had them installed beginning of October and one failed about a week ago (with no 4wheeling during that time) ....

Badger1: "The Neapcos(USA made) that everyone says fit(including the books) on a D1, actually are a hair smaller than OEM. Ordered some awhile back from Carquest and had their own machine shop install. Got a call from the machine shop and the guy mic'd them and they were actually a fair amount smaller than stock. Asked if he would trust them in his own truck(I just wanted it done), he said he wouldn't risk it....and that is coming from the same place I bought them from. I returned them and ordered OEM, had a driveline shop repair and rebalance, good to go."

Any comments on that?

[sideview]

I don't understand what your asking, are the actual joints smaller or the caps?