OK, Lucas is screwing with me again. I have a leak somewhere - my truck does, that is. Battery keeps going dead after about 36 hours of non-usage. The alternator is charging just fine. What are some of the first things I should check? Electrical issues are not my bag.
Thanks
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What? Is this where I'm supposed to write some profound statement that boggles the intellect of the genius that you think you are? Why would I waste my time with that when I can be getting free lap dances from your sister AND your girlfriend at the same time?
Check the car battery first. Does the battery fluid pucker in the wells? Fill with distilled water if necessary.
Are the terminals clean? Cover the access ports tightly and use baking soda and those battery pads on the terminals and use vaseline jel on the terminals.
Second, check the charge level. Get a voltmeter or a battery charge meter that plugs into cigarette lighter. Low voltage is one thing, high voltage is another. Alternator / voltage regulator is suspect.
The most likely thing is that you have either a short to ground or you have a device that is on all the time. Have you checked that the interior light in the passenger area is not on all the time?
Happened to me once already thats to an idiot passenger.
Brand new battery
Brand new battery cables
Clean terminals
Voltage shows alternator is charging appropriately
Inside light is set to "off"
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What? Is this where I'm supposed to write some profound statement that boggles the intellect of the genius that you think you are? Why would I waste my time with that when I can be getting free lap dances from your sister AND your girlfriend at the same time?
What you need to do is a battery drain test, which will indicate if something is being powered after the ignition is off. To perform a battery drain test, disconnect the positive terminal on the battery. Pull out the dash clock fuse and make sure every other thing is off. Using an ammeter, attach one of the leads onto the disconnected positive terminal and the other lead attach to the positive battery terminal. Then read the ammeter. If everything is off, there should be a zero reading. Any reading indicates a problem. To help pinpoint the problem, pull fuses one at a time until there is a zero reading on the ammeter. This action isolates the circuit that has the problem.
Hope this helps.
__________________ No hand signals, driver playing with his transfer Knob.
I should get a discount on purchasing an ammeter b/c I am a Rover owner right?
These can be purchased at any auto parts store? Do you know the approximate price? Thanks!
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What? Is this where I'm supposed to write some profound statement that boggles the intellect of the genius that you think you are? Why would I waste my time with that when I can be getting free lap dances from your sister AND your girlfriend at the same time?
As I'm in Australia, I would only be guessing. There are quite a number of places that sell these (multimeters). Perhap Walmart or Sears would be a place to start. What you don't want is one with all the whistles and bells, as all these extraneous features will only confuse. In sure some of the local forum members will chime in with suggestions.
__________________ No hand signals, driver playing with his transfer Knob.
"Quiescent current" is current drawn from the battery by vehicle components that require power when the key is in the "off" position. The draw may include the radio, clock, security system and ECU memory. It will also vary depending on the "sleep" status of various ECUs.
Some electronics, including plips from other vehicles in the vicinity, can "awaken" an ECU. When testing avoid the use of plips in the vicinity. If consistently and repeatedly "awakened" over an extended time, the ECU quiescent draw can drain a battery.
A battery will self discharge at a rate between 0.1 - 1% at 20°C (68°F) depending on the age and condition of the battery. The self discharge rate will INCREASE 1% for every 10°C (19°F) increase in temperature
Dirt and moisture on the top surface of the battery will also increase the discharge rate.
A quiescent current draw that exceeds specification can cause excessive battery drain while the engine is off. This may result in a dead battery or inability of the battery to maintain a charge.
Here is your test.
MEASURE QUIESCENT CURRENT LEVEL
1. Verify that the battery is fully charged.
2. Remove key from ignition lock.
3. Open hood.
4. Disconnect bonnet switch.
5. Close all doors.
6. Verify that all interior lights have extinguished.
7. Lock vehicle with remote.
NOTE: Ensure that the vehicle electrical system remains powered throughout the following steps.
8. Connect a suitable ammeter between the battery and vehicle electrical system.
9. Wait 30 minutes for all on-board systems to power down. In some cases a Discovery Series II may take up to 60 minutes to completely power down.
NOTE: Any accessories fitted to the vehicle with a permanent battery connection, will adversely affect quiescent current. They should be disconnected before testing the vehicle
10. Measure the current level between the battery and vehicle electrical system.
F$%*(*^& electrical leak
First steps.....
Linear Mode
