A few questions

[itsarova]

most importantly...
sometimes (usually 1 out of 3), I will start my 95 disco and it will go to 500 rpm and then die, i then usually have to hold the gas to the floor and manually idle the truck to 1000 rpm to put her in drive or reverse (sometimes if I'm lucky, the idle will kick in and take about 30 seonds to gradually get to the set rpm) , then when i come to a stop or slow down and i have to again manually idle it using the gas or else it kills over and i usually have to put it in neutral while rolling and start it up again and go through the same process... but other times it works fine... why in the world does it do this?

secondly any way i an easily turn off my srs or anti-lock lights?

[drewclare25]

the antilocks light should go off when the truck gets to 6 mph i believe.

if it doesn't go off after a few min of driving, then you have a problem and get it checked out, not turned off

[nfrey2]

could be a bunch of things, i have an o2 sensor thats gone bad, and it does the same thing. Noticed any significant losses in fuel economy?

[Bene]

mine did that stalling thing till i got one of these:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

it could also be the O2s, mine stalling at idle right now because the O2s aren't in at the moment. but I should be taking care of that tomorrow...

[afirover]

find some one with a t4 or a rovacom to help
bring it to indy we can help

try rermoving your MAS and try agian clean stepper motor and check trollel pos

just some ideas to get you going

[Disco Mike]

Go for the basics before you start looking at O2's and MAF's.
Remove the air intake hose and give the throttle body a good cleaning with carb spray, making sure to get all the build up out of the throat and off of the butter fly, when done wipe out all the excess. Then using the same carb cleaner, clean your idle control, don't know on your model if it is an IAC or a spetter motor, but clean it well and this should correct your problem.
Mike

[itsarova]

i don't have a dealership around here for 100 miles so a while back I took it to the only guy that knows anything about rovers but all he does is defender and series work, we found out that the coil was leaking so he did replace it with a new coil but that didnt really help, after about 2-3 weeks it was back doing the same thing

the check engine light with a code for my left o2 did come on at one point but then it went off after a week or so

it has trouble running with the A/C on, I am attempting to post pictures of some rotted hose by the brake fluid that was unconnected with a white connector that has 3 outlets and was unconnected with the other rotted hose

so some think its the o2 sensors? and others think i just need to generally clean up around the engine?

[Badger1]

How old are your plugs and wires? If old I would replace should be done anyway. How old is your fuel filter? Once again if it hasn't been changed in awhile, it should be. Have you done a fuel pressure test? Also could be moisture in your fuel( ask me how I know), which anything like STP fuel treatment would take out the moisture. Just a couple of simple things to think about.

[itsarova]

yes, there was water in the fuel line when I first purchased it a year ago at the end of the month, since then I use STP every other time I fill it up and I also exchanged the tank with the recal tank, so water in the line is out of the question

pushing this tripod like piece back into place between the two rotted hoses has seemed to help for the time being, I'll update if anything further happens

[Disco Mike]

You do need to address the hoses, can't correct anything till that is done., Then clean up the idle as I suggested, plugs and wires may be tired but won't cause what you are describing, neither will the O2, which depending on your mileage should be replaced to improve your overall performance.
Stay away from STP, buying soda in a can will work better then that stuff. If you want to use a product to help out look at SeaFoam or B&G's 44K for some quick results.
Mike

[Badger1]

DiscoMike I have used the STP fuel conditioner just to dry up the moisture in the fuel not the injector cleaner. Does the Seafoam fuel stuff also dry up moisture? Not sure. If it does I will try that. That was a major problem I had that was causing my idle and misfire problems. Once I used the STP it really seemed to help.

[afirover]

the hoses you discribed do the come out of the firewall and go to the black thing on the plunuim ??
if so its cruis control and its not going to make you truck run like that
last time I had an issue simular to yours we found that thier was air being sucked into the plunim through a hole ... grab a can off carb cleaner and spray down the engine wile it try's to run when it starts to run better that is where you leak is that is how we found the last one good luck
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