Help with 94 D1 Manual to Auto Swap - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Question Help with 94 D1 Manual to Auto Swap

I bought a pair of D1 Manual transmissions vehicles as a package deal. They both had different issues as well as both had Bad Transfer Boxes. I decided to keep the one with the engine that was recently overhauled and swapped everything I wanted or that was nicer over to the one I keep and sold off the the other (for most of what I spent). The one I keep had a issue with the transmission, the Transfer box or both. When I got into it, it turned out it was both. My wife really didn't have any interest in driving a manual and I prefer a Auto. The Manual being fairly rare around here, I was able to trade my non-working Manual (they were going to rebuild it), for a working ZF4 Auto. He also gave me a working BergWarner Transfer Box as well as everything else needed for the conversion. So it begins.

I am not auto mechanic and my experience is fairly limited to helping more knowledgeable people then myself do things. But, I am very mechanically incline and felt I would give it a go. Did a lot of research and have made a lot of progress but am wanting to get some help finishing this project up. I mated the trans to the engine (ordered special shim the adjust spacing correctly and installed the torque converter fully and everything mated nicely). I attached the torque converter to the Flex plate. I have mated the transfer box to the trans. Everything is torqued to spec.

Here is where I would love a little guidance and what I have left. I need to hook back up the wire harness but there are 2 additional plugs/contact points that my wire harness doesn't seem to have. What are they for and how can I add them? There appears to be a speed sensor on the Transfer Case that matches up with a plug that is also on the transfer case, is it just a loop to the speed sensor? That same plug is one of the plugs I am missing on my wire harness. 2 of the exhaust bolts snapped off when removing the exhaust. I thought I would be able to remove them by soaking them with liquid wrench and the drilling and extracting them but I can't get them to budge. Should I use heat? What's the best way to use Heat?

This is what is stumping me and holding me up from finishing this up, any help would be great. Thanks
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 08:37 AM
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Garage
Sounds like a fine mess��
Someone may be able to identify what is missing ? If you can identify what components are missing wiring connections.
Also online manuals are available that may have wiring schematics to help,you identify what you are missing

"All required parts included" rarely is what it is supposed to be

Happy Happy Happy

2002 D2 se7 6 seater . complete engine rebuild with flanged liners , 2 inch lift, terrafirma shocks, LT 275/65r18 Cooper stt tires, d1 modified front bumper, safety devices rack, 30" l.e.d. Light bar
2004 D2 se5 (sold)
2001 D2 se5 (parts truck)
2000 D2 se7 (retired)
1997 D1 (sold)
1957 Series 1 88" future projet
2006 Suburu legacy outback (gets me around when the disco is not)
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 09:30 AM
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Actually it shouldn't have a Borg Warner it should be an LT230 transfer case......... The Borg Warner is off a Rangie and the trans is probably too. Oh boy. Pics my man are the name of the game, if you could post them it would help immensely. The vehicle speed sensor is off the transmission tail piece. The transferase used a shift lock solenoid and a switch for an idiot light on the dash saying you are in locked mode (front and rear axles locked). As far as heat on a frozen bolt/stud use a propane torch and if it's a tight space get a pencil tip and get frozen parts as cherry red as possible. Get a wrench or whatever on it as soon as you can, should twist right out.

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

Roverless and wandering

The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 12:28 PM
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If you have access to a welder......

Place a nut (3/8 or 7/16) over the broken bolt, even if flush......weld the exposed portion of
the bolt to the internal portion of the nut......don't just tack it, give it a good weld.

The heat from the welding will help with the extraction & the nut provides a place for
your wrench.....work it a little back and forth, then extract while hot.

Ground clamp should be attached directly to the block, remove battery.

I was warned, did it anyway......97 Disco STD7..

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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 03:47 PM
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The extra wiring for the transmission is most likely for the starter lockout and oil temp. The lockout stops the starter solenoid from operating unless the thing is in neutral or park.
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:12 PM
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You're going to need a Range Rover classic front shaft if you keep that TC. I personally would not. The LT230 is the better case. Some say the BW is quieter but the whole damn truck is loud to me so....
Also if you have a RR trans you will need a Disco torque converter and flywheel if you are running GEMS management. The Gems system uses a crank sensor rather than the distributor. So it needs the the flywheel to trigger it.
The electrical connections for the BW and the LT230 your Disco originally came with, aren't the same.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-13-2017, 07:30 PM
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One thing to note it's a dizzy Disco, it's a 94 so no worries on sparks there Shifty.

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

Roverless and wandering

The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 02:36 AM
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I actually did not mind the BW transfer case. All my previous ones had the LT230 and I had one ready to replace the BW with. But I found the auto lockup of the BW good in that it would activate when needed rather than when I decided to engage it. For example on wet roads, where i would would never engage the centre diff lock, it would lock up when needed. Even in the off-road work I found it reasonably good. Of course it had a bit of a delay when locking up off-road, but everything is a compromise.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
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I do have the RR front shaft. I can get a good deal on a LT230 from someone living close to me and have decided to go get it. I never wanted to switch in the first place really. Also I will be getting a wire harness that will include the multi plug in the deal and that will fix that issue as well.
Can I use the current transmission oil cooler/radiator that was for my manual trans or is the one given to me with the Auto different in some way? Doesn't appear to be different other then the line connection locations and they are longer so I can bend and flare them to the right location.
Thanks everyone for the help.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-14-2017, 10:37 PM
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I'd probably stick with the safe bet and use the auto radiator with the auto. They probably are the same but I'm not 100% certain without poking my nose in the manual. Do you have a copy of the "Rave"? That's the name of the service manual, good stuff. If not I can link it.

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

Roverless and wandering

The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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I just have the Discovery Workshop manual published by Rover Technical Communication and a hard copy of one by Haynes. Have not been overly impressed with them but they are helping.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Turns out the Deal to get the parts I talked about are from a 96 Discovery 1. I believe that means it had the GEMS. If I am correct the LT230 is still the same and didn't interface with the GEMS system, am I correct? If that is correct I am still going to jump on the deal. I may not get the wire harness I want (not sure what plugs and configurations changed for the GEMS but I will still get a bunch of things I want and it's a steal. Just want to know that the LT230 will work first.
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 11:07 AM
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It will work. Gems system is different from the 14CUX. But you can manage
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Okey I bought a rolling frame from a 96 D1 that included the auto trans and LT230 still attached. Also had a bunch of other things like wire harnesses, radiator, fuel tank and a bunch of other little things. I got it mainly for the LT230. Plan to keep the auto trans as a back up and was going to use one of the wheels to replace the spare and cover on the back of mine (like the look of having a full matching rim/tire on the back). Figured next time I needed to replace tires I would get 5 so they were all the same. However upon closer inspection the rims are not the same style I have and the tires are a fair amount bigger. I thought the frame looked like it might have been lifted when looking at it in person but figured it only looked that way due to it not having the full weight load with no body, engine or anything else weighing it down. The tires on it are 265/75r16 and those seem to large to have on there without a lift? So the question now is how do I determine if there is a lift on this rolling frame? I was thinking of doing a 2" lift on mine at some point and if this one has one, well bonus! I am going to pull all the parts I want and then sell/recycle the rest because I don't have anywhere to store it. I know this has kind of jumped off topic but I need to pull the LT230 and get it in to see if I need any more help with the swap and thought I would float this question in the meantime. Thanks
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-26-2017, 10:34 PM
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It is a impossible to work out how much spring lift you have with an empty and partially disassembled vehicle. Once back together, the measurements are usually taken from the centre of the wheel to the top of the wheel arch.
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