HELP** 98 Disco 1 Alarm/ immobilizer - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
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HELP** 98 Disco 1 Alarm/ immobilizer

Hey everyone,

I just got my First Land Rover got it real cheap ($800) 140k miles on craigslist. I know it needs some work valve cover gasket, exhaust, windshield are the big ones. But is overall in really good condition. Its a 98 D1 50th anniversary edition.

My question is, the previous owner has had the truck since 03 and informed me to NEVER lock the doors EVER! (only have a key, no Key Fob). He said it is because the immobilizer kicks in and the alarm goes off. I have done my fair share of research on this issue but have not had a definitive answer on whether or not the 98 D1 NAS has a Spider unit im able to bypass or not? the previous owner says he took apart the dash and his exact words were "the brain is fried". Wonder if hes talking about a spider unit?? no idea. Currently starts up every time but the anti theft led on the radio is always blinking, and the ring around the key hole is always red. ( i believe this means the alarm is currently armed?)

I have not locked the vehicle because im not sure how i would get back in if i "test" it out (this is my 2nd vehicle not my DD). Basically im wondering what sets off the alarm and triggers the immobilization? My basic brain just says if its triggered by unlocking and locking the doors it must be connected by a wire somehow and can i just cut this (on all the doors) so that nothing is triggered when i lock or unlock? Sorry if that sounds stupid. i don't even care if the alarm works or not at all i just want to be able to lock it as a deterrent.

p.s. i read in the manual that u can lock the vehicle without arming the alarm by holding the key in the lock position for over five seconds? is it that simple?....probably not im guessin

Thanks guys!!
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 06:13 AM
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Well if the keyhole stays red it's about to blow up....... RUN!

You have an LSE and not a 50th Anniversary. The LSE is better looking, better seats and trim and it looks fantastic for $800. The problem with locking the truck is that not all the lock actuators are probably working correctly, it's a guess, a very well educated guess. Unlocking it is simple, unlock/lock three times with the key in the drivers side door. That disables the alarm and you should hear two beeps of the horn and the turn signals should flash twice to confirm. Not a big deal. The drivers side door has a switch around the key tumbler, no other door has it so don't try to unlock it from any other. The Cargo Door, the big one you can fit a washing machine through, lock actuator is usually the one that craps it's lock solenoid first before all the others. If you want to keep the alarm issue off your plate for awhile until you familiarize yourself don't lock the truck, put a rubber band around the cargo doors lock to hold it up, that is a temp fix.

Nice snag.

No, the "brain" is not fried, the previous owner was. There isn't an alarm spider on your truck and it's not installed in any NAS Rover.

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

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The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 06:26 AM
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I just noticed something in your pic of the back end, the bumper is not aligned with the body, have you looked underneath the truck yet? Rust per chance on the box sections that run under the door sills? It looks like your rear passenger side body mount is toast, the body is sagging on that side.

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

Roverless and wandering

The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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ihscouts im not sure what the significance or the red keyhole is, can you elaborate on why i should run far away haha.

The rig does say LSE on the side, but also looked up the vin on carfax and it auto populated with 50th anniversary edition. plus it has the badging around the back window for it on both sides that says "50th anniversary edition"

I dont plan on locking it anytime soon, just wondering if there was a way to disconnect the alrm/ immobilizer all together. I dont care if it eve has an alarm or not would just like the piece of mind that someone cant just open her up all willy nilly like.

AS for the body mount it all looked good when i went other to do the exhaust the other day but ill take another look. Could also be that the floor on my barn isnt the best (built in 1830) and crocked as hell.
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 06:54 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ihscouts View Post
I just noticed something in your pic of the back end, the bumper is not aligned with the body, have you looked underneath the truck yet? Rust per chance on the box sections that run under the door sills? It looks like your rear passenger side body mount is toast, the body is sagging on that side.
Yea its just the floor. mounts look fine
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 06:57 AM
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Does the radio say "code" in the LCD window? That blinking light is only for the radio, the one for the trucks alarm is in the middle of the dash. If the alarm was active you wouldn't get 50 feet down the road before the engine quits. It's not the floor planks, I wouldn't have brought it up unless I knew what I was seeing. The key light is always red, doesn't change colors ever.

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

Roverless and wandering

The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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the radio did say "code" when i bought it because the battery had died. Put a new one in and typed in the radio code that was on the 2 cards that came with the vehicle originally. works fine now. Ill double check all the mounts an suspension more when i get home tonight. just did it really quickly before i headed out the door. Thanks for pointing that out!
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 08:39 AM
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Welcome aboard! You posted your intro in the
'archives' area.....What part of Maine are you in?

Good looking D1, all it's bad secrets are hidden 'under'
the truck, rust can be a rather large issue on these.

I had the same issue your having, frankly I forgot about
it.....it's been fine for almost 2 years now. Now a days,
I leave my keys in it hoping someone will take it........
Unfortunately, no takers yet...

I was warned, did it anyway......97 Disco STD7..

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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Southern Maine, just around the Eliot/ Kittery Area!

The Rover came from Tennessee so the rust isnt as bad as it would be if it was laways in maine, but there is a bit here and there nothing structural from what i can tell. only spot is the rear drivers side door has a rust spot in the arch that i will be looking to fix. The rest is very minimal surface stuff
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 11:39 AM
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Ahh, I lived in Caribou for 5 years and sometimes
hang out just south of Banger....just might return!

I'm currently in Kentucky, Tennessee just below, being
from New England....The rust down this way is HORRIBLY
BAD....Worst I've even witnessed. They use calcium cloride
to pretreat for snow/ice....and straight salt, no sand-salt
mix....straight salt. Hopefully there won't be any sneaky
surprises under there, I found 'A LOT'...and I'm still not
done. That one repair you noted, been there, done that
to both sides....not much fun.....If I ever get my build thread
over here, it's well documented making the repair. (s)....

Welcome aboard!

I was warned, did it anyway......97 Disco STD7..

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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Detoured Discovey View Post
Ahh, I lived in Caribou for 5 years and sometimes
hang out just south of Banger....just might return!

I'm currently in Kentucky, Tennessee just below, being
from New England....The rust down this way is HORRIBLY
BAD....Worst I've even witnessed. They use calcium cloride
to pretreat for snow/ice....and straight salt, no sand-salt
mix....straight salt. Hopefully there won't be any sneaky
surprises under there, I found 'A LOT'...and I'm still not
done. That one repair you noted, been there, done that
to both sides....not much fun.....If I ever get my build thread
over here, it's well documented making the repair. (s)....

Welcome aboard!



I was Told the Rust ther was bad but this really isnt from what i can tell. The muffler was the only rot i could see but im replacing it tomorrow. it went between GA and Tn for years from what i was told it seems to have faired well. how long a fix was that rust repair on the wheel arch? i assume water is collecting , is there a good fix to divert the water to avoid it in the future?

-Alex
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-27-2017, 12:58 PM
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Oh......Your going to LOVE it!
The engineering on these sweet dolls is out
of this world....simply marvelous!

Honestly, it stinks, the metal is stretched so thin
you could thread a needle with it....even better,
that area acts as your rear fender as well! All due
to an access hole up under there to adjust/install
the door lock catch......Brilliant!! Best part, what
looks like a small rust fix, turns into something 7
times bigger. In the end, you'll weld cap and seam
seal that access hole closed.

Mine was really bad-


Other side wasn't as bad, still.....alot going on in
a very small area....


Your under side, a lot going on here...


But if you take your time, have some skill....


You can pull it off.......That was an extremely short
version of the repair. If you have rust there, you'll
be finding some more.

I was warned, did it anyway......97 Disco STD7..

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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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it doesnt look that big maybe 2in long and the width of a pencil. but ill have to grind it all to find out where it actually stops. Your looks amazing in the end hopefully i can get somewhat close to looking like that haha.
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 07:37 AM
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Thanks, in all fairness, I've been welding for
about 32 years. It's a tedious repair when it
gets that bad. Once underneath, you may find
something much worse. Check the lower front of
the rear wheel well also. There's a 'genius' body
mount connection there that rips, tears and rots
as well.

I was warned, did it anyway......97 Disco STD7..

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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 05:26 AM Thread Starter
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Are you aware of a way that i can just tear out the alarm module or whatever it is that causes the immobilization? i dont want either to work anyway??

Last edited by Alex Spencer; 03-01-2017 at 06:31 AM.
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