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Old 03-10-2008, 06:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Thumbs down HELP! Disco I CEL running rough sluggish

What I have done so far:
-New spark plugs(Champion) and ignition leads (Bosch)
-Seafoamed (full can) the intake system through the hose.
-Ran some injector cleaner in the fuel.
-Cleaned throttle body with carb/choke cleaner.
-Unplugged MAF and it ran a little better so I assume its an air flow problem.

The outcome:
After I seafoamed and was letting it run I noticed a small air leak and I pinpointed it to the vacuum hose on the left intake to valve cover hose aka. (hose used for Seafoam injection) I noticed there was a cut in the middle of it and the hose was almost collapsed! So I took it off and taped it as a quick test fix and put it back on. Well, the truck started and found its idle and ran somewhat better but not 100%. I drove it around and it was no longer sluggish when taking off like it was and ran somewhat better but not as smooth.

So my question is would a ripped vac hose like this expain my poor idle? I did tape it up and it ran a little better but the hose is still faulty and feels very soft, so when engine is on it is sucked in almost collapsed. I went to the hardware store and got some $.59 cent plumbing hose for a test but it didn't want to fit as snug as I wanted it.


Ok i brought a coder reader today and here are the codes:
P1193
P0300
P0308
P0304
P1316
P1314

I cleared the codes it still is doing the same thing i drove it around my block and let it idle for 3min since i cleared them and no CEL lights came on. Still running sluggish. Any help would be awsome
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Old 03-11-2008, 02:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Should I drive my disco until my codes come back or will i damage it further/
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Old 03-11-2008, 08:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPC97DiscoSD View Post
What I have done so far:

Ok i brought a coder reader today and here are the codes:
P1193
P0300
P0308
P0304
P1316
P1314

I cleared the codes it still is doing the same thing i drove it around my block and let it idle for 3min since i cleared them and no CEL lights came on. Still running sluggish. Any help would be awsome
P1193 is the same code as mine. One of the oxygen sensors has a bad heater. That is one to start with.

P0300 is a multiple cylinder misfire, probably from rich mixture and bad info from the MAF and the oxygen sensor. P0308 is cylinder eight misfire. P0304 is cylinder 4 misfire.

P1316 is misfire on startup of engine. P1314 is same as P0300.

Clean your MAF sensor and change the oxygen sensor 1193 tells you the location of the oxygen sensor.

This is shamelessly stolen from elsewhere:


Land Rover Repair: Land Rover Disco Air/Fuel metering OBD II code P1193


You are here: Experts > Home/Garden > Auto Repair > Land Rover Repair > Land Rover Disco Air/Fuel metering OBD II code P1193


Topic: Land Rover Repair

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Expert: John McInnis
Date: 2/12/2005
Subject: Land Rover Disco Air/Fuel metering OBD II code P1193

Question
-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
Hey John,

I have read most of your responses and I think you will be able to help me. I have a 96 Disco with 110,000 miles. The check engine light is on. I like to do my own repairs and have changed the valley pan gasket myself, so I am willing to spend time working on the disco. I love the car and hope to keep it running forever! Back to the light, after talking to the dealer service guy(who is very honest) I decided to buy my own ODB II scanner. I love it! I read and cleared the first set of codes which stated that there was a Fuel/air metering problem, a misfire on cyl 4, an ignition system failure, and a low coolent temp. After clearing, the only one to return was the fuel/air metering code, P1193. I am changing all the plugs and wires as well as the air filter and as they were due anyway. Will this help, or is it a mass air flow sensor failure or simple O2 sensor failure. Those are my intial thoughts. After thinking about it though I wonder if it could be a bad temp sensor(see low coolent temp)? What do you think?
Answer -
Hi Dean,

glad your ODBII reader is working out for you.

Your code, P1193, indicates " HO2S Heater Circuit Inferred Open Circuit, Downstream Sensors". This seems more of a heated O2 sensor problem on the exhaust side. You may want to think about where the mix problem lies and what you can do about it.

I'm not sure what is causing the O2 sensor to trigger but it can't hurt to change all those parts you mentioned, especially when they are needed.

I recently had a crack in my exhaust downpipe that triggered the O2 sensor. After welding the crack shut and resetting the system, no reading was found and it seems to be ok. BTW: The crack was at the joint just before the downpipe flange that attaches to the exhaust manifold. There was much stress there and I think its been that way since new. Strange the crack should develop so close to the original weld from the factory.

I don't think it's a bad temp sensor but its wise to check up on that low coolant temp code. Could that indicate a thermostat problem? Maybe.

The way would be to hook up your Disco to a TestBook and have it thoroughly examined. From there, it can be determined if its a MAF or sensor problem.

Best of luck,

JohnMc


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Old 03-11-2008, 09:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I did clean out my MAF and it did not change anything really. So do you think my MAF is bad this basically happened overnight . BTW I do have a hairline crack in the exhaust manifold. Thanks for the reply
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Seal the crack first in the exhaust manifold first. Reset your ECU and if you just get the 1193 then swap out the oxygen sensor. I would use a soda can and a couple of cable clamps for now. Get it done later at a exhaust shop.
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Old 03-12-2008, 10:23 AM   #6 (permalink)
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So an exhaust shop can weld that up for me? or do i need to buy a new mani? Would a hairline crack cause my truck to run like this? What oxygen sensor does 1193 tell me to replace? Thanks for the response Adam
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Old 03-12-2008, 12:29 PM   #7 (permalink)
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ok i drove the disco around for about 15mins today and it seems to be normal in first and even second gear, but when in 3rd gear it seems like it only has 5hp and does not want to go any were and i hear two pops it backfires twice through the intake in 3rd gear. The idle seems to be a little bit better also. And there are NO CEL'S popping up.

Any help will be much would be great. thanks.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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also it seems the truck idles better with the MAF unplugged.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
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So an exhaust shop can weld that up for me? or do i need to buy a new mani? Would a hairline crack cause my truck to run like this? What oxygen sensor does 1193 tell me to replace? Thanks for the response Adam
Yep to both. Downstream is past the cat so the closest oxygen sensor drivers side to the tailpipe.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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also it seems the truck idles better with the MAF unplugged.

It is still running open loop from the ECU reset, let the truck run for 15 minutes then start driving. It should go losed and then throw a 1193.
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Old 03-16-2008, 11:28 PM   #11 (permalink)
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My 96' was throwing the same codes and number 4 kept missing each time the codes were cleared. This occurred around 120,000 miles and running sluggish and rough. Come to find out, the valves needed some major cleaning. I also had all of the hoses replaced. The cleaners you used burn off before they reach the back valves. So, in other words, your valves may be sticking. My Bumble Bee runs like new.
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Old 03-19-2008, 02:28 PM   #12 (permalink)
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My 96' was throwing the same codes and number 4 kept missing each time the codes were cleared. This occurred around 120,000 miles and running sluggish and rough. Come to find out, the valves needed some major cleaning. I also had all of the hoses replaced. The cleaners you used burn off before they reach the back valves. So, in other words, your valves may be sticking. My Bumble Bee runs like new.

Ok, I have the exact same situation it looks like.
After messing around for a while and not making any progress, I took my truck to the independent Euro mechanics so they can have a quick look over and give me their opinion, thank God they are around the corner from me minutes away and I was able to drive there. So I gave it a shot, the compression test cost me a few bucks even though I could have done it myself. In a sense I am glad I am getting to the bottom of this.

So the next day, I get a call and they ran a compression test which revealed low compression on Cyl. 4. So I have an internal problem now. The truck runs and drives, it is just really sluggish at around 2 - 3.5 rpms. This problem seems to have happened overnight and I am thinking the problem is in the heads, maybe stuck valves. I don't want to know what it looks like under there, maybe the previous owner ran 87 octane, and it was just a matter of time before the damage was done.

Is there any way I can clean the valves with an additive or something before I start digging deep into the engine and my pockets, should I change the oil and add some compression booster or some kind of engine treatment. I ran a can of seafoam thrrough the intake, should I do a can in the crankcase? Let me know what you guys think. I do have a crack on my exhaust manifold by cyl.4 - would that cause the problem, when it is running slugging it backfires through the intake and pops? It feels like I am running without a spark plug. Although it starts right up smoothly. Thanks for the input in advance.

I have cleared of my CEL and it hasn't returned.
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Old 03-20-2008, 09:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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*New day, post cont'd I have low Compression on Cyl 4 and CEL....

OK I flushed the engine, changed the oil with Castrol Syntec 5W/30 along with a quart of compression booster additive to thicken the oil and let the truck run for a bit and I noticed than my CEL came on here are the codes it threw:

P1316
P1204 Pd
P0204 Pd
P1193 Pd

Also, everytime I run the car the problem seems to get worse and worse. I noticed it was puffing out some bright white smoke after I changed the oil and filter. It almost seems like the head gasket has failed, but I don't know, I haven't had any coolant loss issues or signs of leaks, the truck never overheats. There was a white looking filmy residue on the inside of my oil cap and the used oil had a scent of gasoline in it. Would a bad head gasket cause compression loss and cause the truck to run terrible? I am starting to think my problem is either a bad head gasket(s) or the heads need to be redone, maybe a stuck valve is causing all this... I doubt that the bottom end is the problem, it doesn't burn any oil or anything. It runs beautiful on a cold start and then after 2 mins its all downhill. What should I look for guys?
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Old 03-20-2008, 09:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I would tell you to drop the oil you currently have with the compression additive and then replace it with the proper oil.

Start with that.
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Old 03-21-2008, 05:47 PM   #15 (permalink)
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wrong, look at what the codes state, injector problem. use a noid lite to make sure the injector is firing. basically hook up a test light and if it fires off while you are cranking or running the circuits are good. then its the injector.
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