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Old 02-16-2006, 03:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default HELP!! Fuel Pump??? Truck still on trail.

Situation:

Went wheelin last night and hit a deep rut with water pretty hard. wasn't that deep (maybe to the top of the tire), but I was riding left side high in the rut so the right went deeper than the left.
Powered through the rut and came out and the truck just died, No chugging or coughing, no nothing. I was in the rut for maybe 4 seconds.
So I thought I might have sprayed a little water on the plugs or in the back on the distributor. So I waited around for a few minutes for things to drain and dry out..but had no luck. So i had to be towed (by a jeep ) to high ground. This is where I started trouble shooting.

Note** The engine cranks strong but will not turn over.

The plugs are getting plenty of fire. The plug wires were dry. took the plugs out. A little carbon build-up but they were dry. turned the engine over with a plug wire off and saw the spark, (and felt it). tried it again. no luck
So, then I moved to the fuses. all of which were in tact and dry. None blown. Still not starting.
So then i thought that maybe I tripped the inertia switch when i hit the bottom of the rut killing the fuel pump. So I tried to push the reset button but the button did not "pop" which made my think the switch might be bad. So I took the switch off and bypassed it with a paper-clip. Still no luck. I also put my tester light on the switch and it was fine.

So by now I'm pretty sure its not the electronics, it's not an issue with anything firing, because the truck is firing just fine and strong and it is a fuel issue. I sprayed a little carb cleaner into the throttle body and it turned over and quickly died. So after eliminating all the before mentioned and coupling that witht the fact that it did start when I added the carb cleaner. I determined that it's fuel related. so i started testing all fuses and connections that were fuel related and they were all fine. I checked all the way back to the fual pump relay. Which after about an hour on the phone with the dealership I still couldnt determine it's whereabouts. I know it's location. i just don't know which one is for the fuel pump. So I decided to take the cargo floor up and investigate the fuel pump. when I uncovered the fuel pump there was alot of water and mud sittign on top of the fuel pump. First of all I don't know how to take that out. So i didn't mess with it but it does look very old and worn.
So my basic idea, through process of elimination is that it is either the fuel pump, or the fuel pump relay.
Also when I turn the key i cannot hear the fuel pump come on. I think the impact may have jarred loose the pump itself and maybe the lower portion of the pump is floating around in the tank???!!! I made it out of the rut due to the fuel left in the line, but as soon as that ran out so did I.
Let me know if this sounds off base, and also I have these questions.

#1 How do you get the fuel pump out?
#2 which one is the fuel pump relay?
#3 Could it really be something more simple that I'm missing?
This proces took about 4 hours and I worked till the sun came up
I am going back in for the truck tonight and have a line in on a fuel pump. So I'll be waiting around the house for the next few hours for your advice then I'll leave here around 9pm eastern standard time. It takes around an hour to get there.
Thanks for all of your help.
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Old 02-16-2006, 04:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would try to run a wire straight from a source of power in the rear area, like your rear running lights straight to the power side of the fuel pump wires that exit the tank. Be sure no smell of gas in the area, and you have not opened the gas tank or tried to remove the pump yet. Then turn your lights on, and you will know whether its the relay, or the pump. If the pump primes, its the relay. If it does nothing, its the pump.

I have never done this myself, but read a thread on it by a guy who used his trailer wiring outlet and a section of wire to hot-wire his fuel pump on the trail once when a relay went out.

Good luck and be safe!
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Old 02-16-2006, 04:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Have youverified that you have any fuel pressure to the fuel rack? If the pump is working your should have, I believe around 35#'s of pressure.
You might check the fuel pressure at the rack, if none or low, then electrical /pump s the correction to look.
You might use a test light on the power lead for the pump, see if it has power when the key is first turned.
Wish I could tell you where the relay is but on your's, I don't know.
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Old 02-16-2006, 04:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k12
I would try to run a wire straight from a source of power in the rear area, like your rear running lights straight to the power side of the fuel pump wires that exit the tank. Be sure no smell of gas in the area, and you have not opened the gas tank or tried to remove the pump yet. Then turn your lights on, and you will know whether its the relay, or the pump. If the pump primes, its the relay. If it does nothing, its the pump.

I have never done this myself, but read a thread on it by a guy who used his trailer wiring outlet and a section of wire to hot-wire his fuel pump on the trail once when a relay went out.

Good luck and be safe!
HAHA I have done it!!

i would try that and if you don't hear the pump running its the pump. If it runs with power from the rear light cool drive it home and diagnose the fuel pump relay( i would use a test light to verify power from the light as its easy to blow the fuse if it strikes a groung).... If not then be prepared to shell out some cash for a fuel pump and use you inline to limp you home you'll need to take a large flat head screw driver and a hammer to drive the threaded retaining ring counter clockwise to unscrew. it should only take a couple rotations before you can use your hands.. the pump comes out as a whole assembly so don't worry about it rolling around in the tank. you'll have to tip it over when you remove it to clear the fuel sender float so have some towels around to absorb the fuel.

Best of Luck!!
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Old 02-16-2006, 07:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default relay

I'm not sure which model you have, but on the 4.0 V8i, the relay is on the passenger side firewall, where a passenger's right foot would be. If you have electric seats, one of the relays is the same and can be substituted to determine if that it the problem. The Rave CD says it is the relay with the blue base. If you are not already gone, I hope that helps.
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Old 02-16-2006, 08:21 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I dont think the fuel pump is the problem. Carb cleaner wont start a rover.
It might sputter a bit. But if he said he sprayed it I would check the air quality and the filter. NOt to mention the stepper motor and the like.

Its more like he got something wet. IF the pump is not working right its also possible he got a whole bunch of water intrusion causing it to stop working for a bit.

id disconnect the pump and clean out the connector.
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Old 02-17-2006, 03:35 PM   #7 (permalink)
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ditto beezel,

I put in a new fuel pump recently, I thought it was a dud, it just needed the conector cleaning up real good, Then after making sure it was firmly connected she started straight away. try cleaning it up.

Good luck and may the force be with you.
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Old 02-17-2006, 10:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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When you turn the key to the ON position (w/out starting) you will be able to hear the pump come on for ~5 seconds......if you can't hear it come on, it's not on. Try some electric contact cleaner on the…….well, contacts. As mentioned, a test light on the power lead is a good double check, and a nice quick test before you start pulling power from another source. Love the limp home hot-wire trick if it’s the relay!

Very, very, very important!!! If you do remove the pump you need to take special care not to get any of the debris on or around the top of the pump into the tank. Sure you have a pump filter and an inline fuel filter to help prevent this particulate from reaching the injectors or engine, but you don’t want it hanging out in the tank waiting for its chance.

If you do have to replace the pump, you can go to your local auto parts supplier and simply replace the pump itself instead of the entire fuel pump housing. I can give details & pics of the 30 minute procedure if anyone is interested…………it can be done on the trail as well. Less than a $100 w/ a lifetime warranty, or you can pay +-$300



Be safe, and best of luck tracking it down.
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Old 02-20-2006, 01:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Have you tried resetting the inertia switch?

On the bulkhead in the engine compartment. In Britain, it has a Red Button on top.
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Old 02-20-2006, 03:59 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I bet when you go back, it will start.
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Old 02-20-2006, 07:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I bet Hank is right.
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Old 02-20-2006, 10:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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ROYAL FLUSH

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Old 02-22-2006, 05:05 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I agree with TEMPL4R. Press the button on the inertia switch. Sometimes they can be ultra sensitive and a sudden jolt will cause it to turn of the fuel supply.
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Old 02-22-2006, 09:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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well, results?
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Old 02-22-2006, 04:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Default physician pilot

My Dad managed an airport for a small town. One day a local surgeon who had rented a plane called in that he needed some gas. He had run out and had to set the plane down in a field about 50 miles from the airport. When they arrived with the gas, he was there waiting for it. The only problem was that the field was a plowed one and the landing gear was collapsed under the plane; not to mention a broken wing, etc.

I'm not sure what this has to do with the Land Rover...the story just came to mind.
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