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Old 06-28-2007, 09:15 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default HELP Please!!!! '97 Disco Won't Start!!!

Hello there....this is my very first post, and I'm already asking for help! iI have a '97 Disco that is in some serious trouble. It all started wheni needed a new tie rod end...took it to the local dealer and I almost keeled over when they came out to talk to me. All of a sudden both ends were bad, the c-v joints needed to be replaced and they wanted to do the brakes as well...$$$$5,000.00!!!!! Needless to say, I drove her back home- untouched.

I just haven't had the time and now it's been over a year of her just sitting. After erradicating the rodent that moved into the glove box, I have more than renewed interest in getting her up and running again. So I tried starting about two months ago. The starter clicked, but wouldn't turn over. The next day I cleaned the battery contacts and tried again. This time, no clicking and a **** of smoke came out from under the hood!!! EEEK Since I was the one turning the key, I couldn't tell where the heck it came from??!!

So as of right now, it won't click at all. I just bought a brand new battery. And I spent two hours taking off the battery ground and cleaning it all. Right before i parked her, I had the alternator replaced. Went to the service station that replaced my engine two years ago...should have known better. After having the alternator replaced twice (I'm on my third) I figure they were doing something completely wrong. So I don't know if that has affected the ability to start. Looks like getting the starter off is quite a project...any ideas from anyone? Thank you all in advance!
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/083...Fencoding=UTF8
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Old 06-29-2007, 01:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Looks like you cooked your starter. Don't worry about the alt yet, you need to get it started first. I am a little confused at why you took the Rover to a service station for a new engine and to a Land Rover dealer for new tie rods? (BTW, you should always replace tie rods in pairs, they are not trying to rip you off) Anyway, most likely the first battery is dead because it has been sitting for so long (hence the clicking) When you installed the new battery, tryed to start and saw smoke, that was the starter (or starter wires) cooking. Bad news.....your engine may be seized. Good news....you need new brakes anyway so with the engine seized you can't drive the Rover and have a crash. Take a look under the veh for melted wires at the starter. With any veh that has sat for a long time it is a good idea to change the fluids and turn the engine over by hand before you try to start it. You should find the info in manual (link posted above) very usefull. Hope this helps you out.
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Old 06-29-2007, 02:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The starter shouldn't be too hard to get out if need be. You will want to take the exhaust manifold off of that side of the engine first. Two bolts per port and three at the connection to the rest of the exhaust system. There are gaskets at both ends of this piece, they should probably be replaced. (although i kept the old gasket at the lower end because I forgot to order it and didnt want to wait. So i just used the old one and some hitemp copper gasket maker stuff) Next you'll need to take off the heat shield. There is one bolt holding it to the inside of the motor mount. After thats off all thats holding it on is a big springlike clamp so just pull it off. Next is the starter, disconnect the two electrical connections (make sure your battery is disconnected!). The first pulls right off and the one from the battery has a bolt. Now there are two bolts holding the starter on. Take them out and then just pull it right out.

Heres a picture of what it will look like when you get down there:
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Old 06-30-2007, 10:36 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Sounds like you might have burnt up your starter. With a multimeter, test the starter and see if you are getting juice.

Oh and you DO NOT need to take the exhaust manifold off to replace the starter!!!!!!! It is easily replaced with everything left in place.
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Neat thing about the book I linked you to. It will not give you the proceedure to test and repair other parts of your car, but it also outlines how to test the starter parts and reassemble.

You did by that book, right?
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:57 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I'll bet it's still sitting or has been sold.
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Old 08-23-2007, 09:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Please see my new post...got the starter off - any more ideas?? Thanks so much for the responses so far!
Starter in Pieces Please HELP!! (pics included)
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Old 08-23-2007, 09:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Yeah, I saw that after I read this one. Doh!

With things like alternators and starters I don't waste my time trying to rebuild. I find a replacement and move on. Sorry but I don't have any ideas.
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Old 08-23-2007, 09:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I guess I'm not neccessarily asking about how to rebuild the starter...I was more looking for whether or not anything stuck out as being worn or fried so that before i go and buy i new starter unit, I had a good feeling that it was in fact narrowed down to the starter or solenoid. Is there anything else that I should be checking into under the hood? I cleaned the ground from the battery to the frame. The just bought a brand new battery. Obviously the alternator will be next once I get her to start.
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I think you're going about it the right way; part by part, testing the new against the old. You might try to have that starter rebuilt, if that's an option. As far as anything jumping out as damaged, no i d. I'd get another and test it, then go from there.

It's a shame you let it sit for so long when you could have done the initial repairs yourself for about $300. I just did my tie-rod ends ~$50, engine mounts~$20, and rear brake pads~$45. Later this year; front rotors and new pads~$165 (Brembo rotors). As far as the CV's, I would have waited until they were clicking and popping, but that's me.
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:19 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Electrical parts can look just fine and have a internal failure.

Kudos for you for applying a logical step by step test of yoru parts, but get the book so you know what you are looking at. Without information, the best you can do is a guess.

Spend the money!
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