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#1 (permalink) |
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SkeeZness
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: BSG, VA
Posts: 60
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Ok I was out wheeling last night and after about 45 min. my roof rack lights and all of my interior lights went kapoot. I'm checking the fuses today...if thats not it what else should I be on the look out for?
Thanks for any help in advance |
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#4 (permalink) |
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SkeeZness
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: BSG, VA
Posts: 60
Gallery:
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I believe they're wired in w/ the headlights but the headlights are still working its really weird
Power seats are for p*ssies lol j/k...i wish i had power seats and my cigar lighter hasn't worked since i got it |
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#5 (permalink) |
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SkeeZness
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: BSG, VA
Posts: 60
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i didn't do any of the work on the truck so icalled the guy today who did and he told me the fuses to check but he said it was probably something to do with the switch which blows cause I'm not gonna be able to get em back working until after new years when I can get out to Danville!!!
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#6 (permalink) |
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Former NAS LR TECH, Current AUS LR TECH
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: DOWN UNDER
Posts: 1,884
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If you have power at the fuses check the CCU. Its the module behind the fuse box inside the car.
Its possible due to corrosion the unit and the wiring behind it is shot. I have seen it before. Its hard to see unless you take it apart. The connector and the ends get all corroded up and break. Heres an ideal. If you got power at the interior switch then check their. Remember you have two grounds. One for the on switch which is the one at the light and the other is at the module. The module ground is the interior light ground for the door opening.
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I work on Rovers. Got a question just ask. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,819
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You can stretch it to 25amps, but thats it. Any higher and you could end up with melted wires. If the 25A fuse blows, start looking for the cause before using the lights again.
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No hand signals, driver playing with his transfer Knob. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Former NAS LR TECH, Current AUS LR TECH
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: DOWN UNDER
Posts: 1,884
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If you used them for 45 minutes its possible they were drawing too much current for the available wire. Its not that the wiring for the lights were bad its just if in conjunction with the wires for the interior its too much.
personally like everyone stated start with the lights overhead. Find the source where they connect with the interior lights and then disconnect the wires from there. But seriously the guy that ran your wires really screwed up. He should be taking care of his fuck up. Sorry but he wired it. He should have had more common sense and ran a better set up. NO one here will question your decision to put in the lights. They will question why he ran them the way he did. first and foremost I would have ran them off the high beams. Use the twelve volt signal from the high beams to run a relay which powers up the off road lights. Use a separate power and ground for the offroad lights so there isnt any trouble. That way the high beams wont fail unless the relay goes bad. If someone has MS paint or something similar I am sure they could draw up a diagram if you need it.
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I work on Rovers. Got a question just ask. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Former NAS LR TECH, Current AUS LR TECH
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: DOWN UNDER
Posts: 1,884
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You said F8 correct/
On my diagrams that is a ten amp fuse. I see two locations of problems. The glove box. and the Rheostat. All the other lights come after the rheostat If pulling the glove box doesnt trip the fuse then its the other side. You might have to pulll a few areas with the illumination from the rheostat thumb switch. But first pull out the wiring for the Overhead lites. That might be your first problem. or you could throw an inline fuse with that wiring to see if it blows. If this isnt a definite problem with a blow fuse every time the door opens or something else you are going to have bear with me and either pull out some stuff or give it back to the guy that fixed it.
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I work on Rovers. Got a question just ask. |
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