Intake manifold gasket - Land Rovers Only

Capt. Ron · 10-17-2007, 08:29 AM

I need to replace this gasket, how much time should I plan to use up?
Are there any tricks I might need to be aware of? Anything else I need?

Elemental · 10-17-2007, 08:30 AM

Kind of depends on your abilities.

Capt. Ron · 10-17-2007, 08:33 AM

Holy shee-ite quick draw! Well, I feel confident I can do it. I changed a u-joint for the first time many months back; took about three hours with just me and my tools.

Elemental · 10-17-2007, 08:35 AM

You do have the manual, yes?

There are just plain too many factors to guess accurately.

My personal record was a hour and half. But, I had all the parts handy, nothing was corroded, and I had done about 20000000 of them.

Capt. Ron · 10-17-2007, 10:52 AM

I have a manual, the 3" thick one, but nothing else. What other parts might I need? The last time I looked at it, it "looked" pretty straight forward. I'll look through the book again tonight.

What are some possible effects of it being torn near the front, which mine is?Any tips or tricks would be nice.

drewclare25 · 10-17-2007, 12:13 PM

mine was a bitch to get off even after we unhooked everything.

definatly label all of the electric cables and everything so you know where they go...

and i unhooked my fuel lines and left the rails on the intake manifold, as opposed to taking the rails off...was pretty easy

pavel · 10-17-2007, 10:11 PM

You'll need some sealer for the front edges and back edges of the gasket. If you have a length of neoprene tube of the correct ID (hardware store), you can cut little doughnuts of tube and make washers to seal the valve cover bolts. If I remember correctly, you need a long/deep style 12 point socket to get the valve cover bolts loosened and tightened.
Be very careful, once the new gasket is applied to the 'valley', that you don't snag it with the manifold as you maneuver it into place - it's a good time to have a friend help. If you do snag and bend it up, you're probably buggered as it is very difficult to straighten out.
All the best, give yourself a full afternoon to do the job - preferably an afternoon when the 'auto stores' (and dealer) are open.

Capt. Ron · 10-18-2007, 07:11 AM

OK, well it sounds like I have everything.

Pavel: I have the requisite valve cover seals, are you talking about using an additional seal for the bolts themselves?

I'm afraid to disconnect the lines to the injectors. The last time I did one, the damned plastic case just crumbled.

I don't feel like replacing a wiring harness too.

Thanks guys.

Elemental · 10-18-2007, 07:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt. Ron

OK, well it sounds like I have everything.

Pavel: I have the requisite valve cover seals, are you talking about using an additional seal for the bolts themselves?

I'm afraid to disconnect the lines to the injectors. The last time I did one, the damned plastic case just crumbled.

I don't feel like replacing a wiring harness too.

Thanks guys.

The plugs on the injectors are easily sorced locally. You can solder in replacements.

pavel · 10-18-2007, 08:53 AM

Capt.Ron: yes, if you follow the LR manual, it says to discard the old valve cover bolts because the sealing collars are damaged and, of course, buy new ones. If you make your own little neoprene seals, you'll reuse the bolts and save over $20.
Concerning the valve cover gasket, its a very poor design where the you have to ensure the bloody things don't slip out of place as they are installed. No sealer is needed on the valve cover gaskets themselves.
The job is a bit 'fussy'. Cheers.

Capt. Ron · 10-18-2007, 01:03 PM

Alright then. Thanks guys.

Rovin4life · 10-18-2007, 05:31 PM

first off you need a torque wrench.

plus to allow the thing from leaking coolant again, put a bead of rtv sealant around the coolant passages on the rear. first put on the seal and then the sealant.

secondly, torque to specs acording to the book and walk away for fifteen minutes and retorque.

trust me they settle a bit.

finally get some indian head gasket compound from napa and smear it on the valve cover gaskets.

and retorque twice, first and then after ten minutes.

Capt. Ron · 10-19-2007, 05:37 AM

Thanks Rovin.

I was thinking...I'm going to be pretty far into this thing. Close enough that the heads will be RIGHT THERE. It might be a good time to have them done also. Valves an all. Whaddya think?

Elemental · 10-19-2007, 05:43 AM

I would do it.

ArmyRover · 10-19-2007, 06:18 AM

your pretty much there anyways and you'll be kicking yourself if in a few months the headgaskets go.

I'd go ahead and get it done.

10-17-2007, 08:29 AM	#1 (permalink)
Capt. Ron on, off, on, off, on... Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: In front of the blue lights! Posts: 718 Gallery: 0	Intake manifold gasket I need to replace this gasket, how much time should I plan to use up? Are there any tricks I might need to be aware of? Anything else I need? __________________ 03 Disco w/CDL 95 Disco 98 Disco: my first (gone)

10-17-2007, 08:30 AM	#2 (permalink)
Elemental Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 3,017 Gallery: 0	Kind of depends on your abilities. __________________ I only worry about myself, screw the others.

10-17-2007, 08:33 AM	#3 (permalink)
Capt. Ron on, off, on, off, on... Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: In front of the blue lights! Posts: 718 Gallery: 0	Holy shee-ite quick draw! Well, I feel confident I can do it. I changed a u-joint for the first time many months back; took about three hours with just me and my tools. __________________ 03 Disco w/CDL 95 Disco 98 Disco: my first (gone)

10-17-2007, 08:35 AM	#4 (permalink)
Elemental Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 3,017 Gallery: 0	You do have the manual, yes? There are just plain too many factors to guess accurately. My personal record was a hour and half. But, I had all the parts handy, nothing was corroded, and I had done about 20000000 of them. __________________ I only worry about myself, screw the others.

10-17-2007, 10:52 AM	#5 (permalink)
Capt. Ron on, off, on, off, on... Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: In front of the blue lights! Posts: 718 Gallery: 0	I have a manual, the 3" thick one, but nothing else. What other parts might I need? The last time I looked at it, it "looked" pretty straight forward. I'll look through the book again tonight. What are some possible effects of it being torn near the front, which mine is?Any tips or tricks would be nice. __________________ 03 Disco w/CDL 95 Disco 98 Disco: my first (gone)

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10-17-2007, 12:13 PM	#6 (permalink)
drewclare25 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 391 Gallery: 0	mine was a bitch to get off even after we unhooked everything. definatly label all of the electric cables and everything so you know where they go... and i unhooked my fuel lines and left the rails on the intake manifold, as opposed to taking the rails off...was pretty easy __________________ Best 4x4xFar 97 Green D1 3" BB springs pro comp es9000 shocks 32x11.50 BFG Mud Terrains 15" american racing steel wheels flowmaster 40 series dual pipes mantec snorkel

10-17-2007, 10:11 PM	#7 (permalink)
pavel Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 420 Gallery: 0	You'll need some sealer for the front edges and back edges of the gasket. If you have a length of neoprene tube of the correct ID (hardware store), you can cut little doughnuts of tube and make washers to seal the valve cover bolts. If I remember correctly, you need a long/deep style 12 point socket to get the valve cover bolts loosened and tightened. Be very careful, once the new gasket is applied to the 'valley', that you don't snag it with the manifold as you maneuver it into place - it's a good time to have a friend help. If you do snag and bend it up, you're probably buggered as it is very difficult to straighten out. All the best, give yourself a full afternoon to do the job - preferably an afternoon when the 'auto stores' (and dealer) are open. __________________ --------------------- Visit my j**p website

10-18-2007, 07:11 AM	#8 (permalink)
Capt. Ron on, off, on, off, on... Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: In front of the blue lights! Posts: 718 Gallery: 0	OK, well it sounds like I have everything. Pavel: I have the requisite valve cover seals, are you talking about using an additional seal for the bolts themselves? I'm afraid to disconnect the lines to the injectors. The last time I did one, the damned plastic case just crumbled. I don't feel like replacing a wiring harness too. Thanks guys. __________________ 03 Disco w/CDL 95 Disco 98 Disco: my first (gone)

10-18-2007, 08:53 AM	#10 (permalink)
pavel Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 420 Gallery: 0	Capt.Ron: yes, if you follow the LR manual, it says to discard the old valve cover bolts because the sealing collars are damaged and, of course, buy new ones. If you make your own little neoprene seals, you'll reuse the bolts and save over $20. Concerning the valve cover gasket, its a very poor design where the you have to ensure the bloody things don't slip out of place as they are installed. No sealer is needed on the valve cover gaskets themselves. The job is a bit 'fussy'. Cheers. __________________ --------------------- Visit my j**p website

10-18-2007, 01:03 PM	#11 (permalink)
Capt. Ron on, off, on, off, on... Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: In front of the blue lights! Posts: 718 Gallery: 0	Alright then. Thanks guys. __________________ 03 Disco w/CDL 95 Disco 98 Disco: my first (gone)

10-18-2007, 05:31 PM	#12 (permalink)
Rovin4life Former NAS LR TECH, Current AUS LR TECH Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: DOWN UNDER Posts: 1,664 Gallery: 0	first off you need a torque wrench. plus to allow the thing from leaking coolant again, put a bead of rtv sealant around the coolant passages on the rear. first put on the seal and then the sealant. secondly, torque to specs acording to the book and walk away for fifteen minutes and retorque. trust me they settle a bit. finally get some indian head gasket compound from napa and smear it on the valve cover gaskets. and retorque twice, first and then after ten minutes. __________________ I work on Rovers. Got a question just ask.

10-19-2007, 05:37 AM	#13 (permalink)
Capt. Ron on, off, on, off, on... Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: In front of the blue lights! Posts: 718 Gallery: 0	Thanks Rovin. I was thinking...I'm going to be pretty far into this thing. Close enough that the heads will be RIGHT THERE. It might be a good time to have them done also. Valves an all. Whaddya think? __________________ 03 Disco w/CDL 95 Disco 98 Disco: my first (gone)

10-19-2007, 05:43 AM	#14 (permalink)
Elemental Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 3,017 Gallery: 0	I would do it. __________________ I only worry about myself, screw the others.

10-19-2007, 06:18 AM	#15 (permalink)
ArmyRover Rebuilding Rover Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: NH Posts: 1,733 Gallery: 0	your pretty much there anyways and you'll be kicking yourself if in a few months the headgaskets go. I'd go ahead and get it done. __________________ "Only two defining forces ever offered to die for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." http://snhlr.org/ 91 Range Rover Classic 90 RRC Parts truck 94 Saab gas mileage beater

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